Just wonder where and what the pickup is on this thing, I cant see one at all. Does it just sense magnetic pole as it passes?
yup. its all internal.
ok... I assume timing accuracy isnt an issue as it gets scorching hot? Magnets lose a lot of their strength as they get that hot.
I knew this thing would be small but I was still surprised by the size of the rotor and its weight. I think this bike is gonna spin up fast. I noticed they sell a flywheel weight to fit this rotor... I could see why some people would want that. I like a smooth torquey feeling power delivery so its something I might mess around with in summer.
Strip the bike of lights...it's only rated for 60w and lights drag it down to where your mostly running on the battery for lighting.
60w divided by 12v gives you about 5 amps to work with...
Chuck
Do you mean get rid of the bulbs and replace with LED's?
I found this that draws 18w apparently. I imagine a LED like this in the front and one in the back I should be good
https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Headlight-2000LM-6000K-Light/dp/B07KT1MPS6/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=led+high+low&qid=1573793844&sr=8-34
$5? Can it really work? If you get one, please let us know.
Quote from: rd400canuck on November 14, 2019, 11:52:52 PM
Do you mean get rid of the bulbs and replace with LED's?
I found this that draws 18w apparently. I imagine a LED like this in the front and one in the back I should be good
https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Headlight-2000LM-6000K-Light/dp/B07KT1MPS6/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=led+high+low&qid=1573793844&sr=8-34
Yes, as much as you can.
Or go AC lighting like M in SC did...
Maybe Mark can post on my 'How To' with the HPI install and tell how he did his setup.
Hmmm.... not sure now.
I think with 60 watts to play with I will try the low wattage LED route first. It's just a headlight and a brake light and it seems i can get those things to draw 35 watts combined going by what I see on amazon.
If I have to I will find an LED solution for the gauges, too.
YOU CAN GET A 35W H4 HALOGEN. sorry caps.
I used a trail tech regulator, and just wired it up from there. ran one leg of each lighting coil to each leg of the regulator. one wire went forward to the headlight, the other went to the brake light switch and the running light. thats -literally- all i have on this bike.
Thanks for ideas, guys.
I'm going to run a batt for sure.
I even found these brake light bulbs which I think are a direct replacement for the type in these bikes and they only draw a few watts each.
https://www.amazon.ca/LUYED-Lumens-Bright-33-smd-signal/dp/B01B17ZXTI/ref=sr_1_36?keywords=LED+brake+light+bulb&qid=1573838455&sr=8-36
Quote from: m in sc on November 15, 2019, 12:00:21 PM
YOU CAN GET A 35W H4 HALOGEN. sorry caps.
I used a trail tech regulator, and just wired it up from there. ran one leg of each lighting coil to each leg of the regulator. one wire went forward to the headlight, the other went to the brake light switch and the running light. thats -literally- all i have on this bike.
So the AC lighting circuit still uses the frame as a ground/neutral?
Do regular old LED lights work for AC?
AS FAR AS THE GROUND, YES.
I DONT KNOW. I USED THE LED STRIP FOR A TAIL AND JUST AN H4 LED. MAYBE I GOT LUCKY. :toot:
The only thing I want use a battery and reg/rect is to use my ignition switch as a kill switch, via a relay. I don't think it's possible with a battery less system...
check the terminals. Im pretty sure if you ohm it out, there may be a pair that closes when the key is 'off'. if so, use that to ground the coil. one side to ground, the other to the coil kill wire.
I know kawis of the era have these terminals, maybe an rd does as well. :twocents:
It's an r5 ignition switch but that's interesting.... I'll be back.
if you're using the key ONLY to kill, you can for sure use the park position for this as it def has 2 contacts in a locked position with key out I'm 99%sure the r5 has that.
That's where I was headed too. Likely what I'll end up doing. Still undecided if I'm going to use blinkers...
This is going to be sweet!
There shouldn't be any issue with tying the r+ry+Br together? Completely free of the ignition switch. No spin, no light.