Well aside from a few small burns. I installed and the vape rotor per instruction. Or so I thought. The install went ok. I found a thick washer that fit perfectly and cranked it down to 13 foot pounds as I have a lack of trust in my little torque wrench.
Anyway. I topped it up with new trans oil at which point I lost a half quart playing the, oops the gasket was not in place on the bottom game. :whoop:
But as I checked the placement of the rotor it seemed to be at or just at 1.9btdc just as the leading edge of the rotor and pickup align. Well I figure as I bent down to look at it I hadn't been exactly level-eyed and thought it was lined up correctly.
I wanted 1.8 but the thought of re draining and possibly messing up the new gasket concerns me. Plus that rotor was a hot potato and really wasn't fun handling lol.
How far off is that in terms of regular every day riding? City roads, some freeway, backcountry. Etc.
The least I figure I can do is take it easy and when I bring it down to NC maybe i can pay for a bit of assistance on this? I do have a good old timing light that works now.
slot the holes in the pickup mount. you can adjust it a hair. verify with a dial gauge and light. ;) might be ok.
Ok, I'll take a look.
One other thing I did was bought that set of rave tech springs from EC. Talk about a difference! I changed the fork oil to fresh 10w and had a bit of a leak on the screw of the right fork. Found a little puddle, so redrained and started over. This time with a wrap of tpfe tape on the screw. No more leaks!
It is so much stiffer, so I'm curious to see how it breaks in and soaks up the bumps. But we're expecting 4 to 6 inches of snow here so it'll have to wait.
How much oil did you put in? Was the amount in the instructions? Sorry, just bought Race Tech springs as well, but haven't even come close to looking at the online instructions.
Regarding fork oil quantity, using oil level instead of a volume measurement is the way to go. With the springs out, and the forks fully compressed, around 150 mm from top of tube is a starting point. Just work the fork a few times to get all air out of the damping rod area.
Dvsrd is correct.
Buy a nice stainless ruler that will fit in the fork tubes and use that. There used to be a decent kit on eBay for this, it may still be available.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0121
That is a neat tool, I have an almost identical tool from the Scandinavian equivalent of HF,
(Biltema) https://www.biltema.no/bil---mc/mc/verkstedutstyr/verktoy/oljenivamaler-gaffelben-2000021495
Well, I used the fork oil spec in the RD manual. It was 4.9 fluid ounces per side.
Quote from: Striker1423 on February 26, 2020, 08:52:44 PM
Well, I used the fork oil spec in the RD manual. It was 4.9 fluid ounces per side.
Yes, that works as well. At least as long as you get all the old oil out. And you are using stock springs.
FYI, Race Tech springs take up less volume in the forks than stock springs (I weighed mine, both stock and RT, so that's a fact) That alone would call for a little more oil than specified by Yamaha.
And Racetech recommend an oil level of 130mm (RD350) or 140mm (RD400) below top of tube, fork collapsed, no springs:
https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Yamaha/RD350/1973-75
https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Yamaha/RD400/1976-78
i have the same tool, worth having.
I've used the 6'' rule for many years on rd forks...on bare clean forks works out to 162 cc's
Chuck
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on February 26, 2020, 11:51:18 PM
I've used the 6'' rule for many years on rd forks...on bare clean forks works out to 162 cc's
Chuck
That's a bit lower than RT recommends, but still 17 cc more than 4.9 fl.oz.
Imho, the old recommendations aren't really useful any more. A bit like it is with ignition timing now vs then.