I think I got everything pretty much done before it's 1st start however I do have a couple of questions before I kick it over?
I removed the oil lines off the carbs and placed them into plastic sandwich bags with zip ties. My question is what do you guys use to plug the holes on the carbs where the oil lines go. I was thinking of using aluminum foil tape but there's not enough surface area for the tape to stick so I thought I'd ask the group.
Second question - I have the air screws set at 1 1/2 turns out per the service manual however where should I set the idle screws for its 1st run? How many tuns out?
Thanks
Auto parts store assortment of neoprene or vinyl (?, colored anyway) vacuum caps come to mind.
My search skills are minimal, but I didn't find a checklist here on the new site for bikes that have been sitting. Somewhere I've got the one JT of RDs Only wrote. I'll look after dinner.
Good luck!
You could just use a length of hose from one carb oil fitting to the other.
I usually screw the idle screws all the way out so that the slides bottom out and set them after the bike is running.
If they are too far in you might start revving, or not start at all as the gap under the slide lets too much air in for the choke circuit to work properly.
It won't be a cap it will have to be a PLUG and running the line from side to the other won't work because there's no fitting for the line to go to
The oil line is off the carb and the fitting is stuck on the oil line and I don't want to remove the fitting off the line because they're so fragile I'm afraid it will get damaged
Also I'm aware of the idle screw hitting the slide if it's in too far maybe i'll run mine all the way out like you suggest and then adjust as necessary.
Just wondered what the most common method / setting you guys use when you set your carbs up for ther 1st run after they've been rebuilt. How do you set your idle screws?
Thanks
Quote from: rodneya on May 22, 2020, 09:06:31 PM
You could just use a length of hose from one carb oil fitting to the other.
I usually screw the idle screws all the way out so that the slides bottom out and set them after the bike is running.
If they are too far in you might start revving, or not start at all as the gap under the slide lets too much air in for the choke circuit to work properly.
Bingo a winner!!
Chuck
Quote from: forexer on May 22, 2020, 09:34:43 PM
It won't be a cap it will have to be a PLUG and running the line from side to the other won't work because there's no fitting for the line to go to
The oil line is off the carb and the fitting is stuck on the oil line and I don't want to remove the fitting off the line because they're so fragile I'm afraid it will get damaged
Also I'm aware of the idle screw hitting the slide if it's in too far maybe i'll run mine all the way out like you suggest and then adjust as necessary.
Just wondered what the most common method / setting you guys use when you set your carbs up for ther 1st run after they've been rebuilt. How do you set your idle screws?
Thanks
Stupid to get in a hurry!! I stock brand new oil lines...fix it right!
You should be using red or green loctite the fittings in the carbs as RD are known for them falling out ALL the time...
Screw out the idle screws all the way out. with the airbox tubes off, and screws turned all the way out, synk the cables first, then stick your finger in the inlet and feel the slide, turn idle screw in until screw just hits the slide, mark a line on the screw then go in 1 1/2 turns for each. put the carb tubes back on and your ready for your 1st start.
Idle will be a too low but is a great place too start if you have outer issues like an air leak...
Chuck
Since the manual states to adjust the idles independently to achieve 1100 - 1200 RPM I was just curious what you guys did for your initial set up with your idle screws after rebuilding the carbs. I decided to do what I've always done which is to screw the screws inward until light resistance is felt make a mark on the screw and then back it out 2 full turns this is the same for both carbs which is usually good enough for a 1st start after that when engine is warm adjust each cylinder to 900 RPM to get an overall 1150 or so total - basically you don't want the cylinders fighting each other. Sorry if I was over thinking this I just thought I'd ask the group
Ok today's update - went to start it up and it did not run - with the key on the ignition lights work checked for power at the points both the orange and gray wire show 12volts but when rotating the engine there's no spark so I'm thinking it maybe the condenser that's bad - points are gaped correctly and they open and close properly and have both been cleaned with alcohol.
Any other ideas what maybe causing this no spark condition?
Do you have leads to points (and condenser) on opposite side of insulator from points.
It's completely stock a 1 owner bike with 3k original miles on it and since I was the 1st person to break the seal on the points cover I'm going to assume that yes it was connected correctly. However, I removed the condenser and did not get a reading of .22 micro farads per the service manual so I need to replace it
With the key on I have 12 volts on the orange and gray point wires but what I'm not sure about is when the points go closed is the 12v supposed to go away and come back on when the points open because I have a constant 12v on the wires no matter if points are open or closed - not sure If this is right or not it maybe an indication of a failed condenser - Anyways, I'm going to replace the points and condenser and hopefully it will spark
you'll see voltage at the points regardless.
capacitors (condensers) do break down over time. def swap them. get new points as well, the heels on those are 40+ years old, they will wear out extremely fast being that old.
Quote from: forexer on May 22, 2020, 09:34:43 PM
It won't be a cap it will have to be a PLUG and running the line from side to the other won't work because there's no fitting for the line to go to
The oil line is off the carb and the fitting is stuck on the oil line and I don't want to remove the fitting off the line because they're so fragile I'm afraid it will get damaged
Quote from: rodneya on May 22, 2020, 09:06:31 PM
You could just use a length of hose from one carb oil fitting to the other.
Leave the original hoses and injector nozzles intact and get new stuff for blocking of the carb oil ports. About $20 for the solution.
New repro injector nozzles from Economy (https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rd250350400r5ds6ds7-parts/fuel-and-airintake/carburetor-rebuild-kits-parts-related/carburetor-parts-carburetor-rebuild-kits-parts-related/misc-carb-parts/injector-nozzle-rd250350400-carb-oil-injector-nozzle/) and OEM Yamaha oil line 90445-05M07-00 (about $5 for 700mm/27.5")
Here is JT's checklist, if it'll upload in this format, for all of those who might need it. I sure did and will. I am not new to 2Ts but I am new to RDs.
I don't see mention of an auto lube check or pre-mix on this one. Maybe Chuck and other Gurus (Jspooner, Mark, SoCal250 etc. (note diplomatic alphabetizing)) here can comment on it or provide their own. It would be great to have a couple in The Tech Library.
pdf version below
Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback and the checklist :thumbs:
I'm going to order both the ignition tune up kit and the oil injector nozzles from John over at Economy
Quote from: Barto on May 24, 2020, 01:48:58 PM
Here is JT's checklist, if it'll upload in this format, for all of those who might need it. I sure did and will. I am not new to 2Ts but I am new to RDs.
I don't see mention of an auto lube check or pre-mix on this one. Maybe Chuck and other Gurus (Jspooner, Mark, SoCal250 etc. (note diplomatic alphabetizing)) here can comment on it or provide their own. It would be great to have a couple in The Tech Library.
I would drain the old 2 stroke oil out of it and most likely replace the lines to and from the pump with clear. Then I'd put a quart of new oil in it and bleed the pump until the new oil is running freely. Then I'd put a bit of premix in the fuel tank and start it and watch the lines from the pump to the carbs fill up. If you were really worried about it you could measure how much oil the pump is pumping. Chuck has a write up on that somewhere.
When I got my RD350 the oil system was removed. One carb had the oil injector fitting still in the carb and capped and the other was missing and had a screw threaded into the hole in the carb body and sealed with silicone. I didn't like that.
I measured the injector tube (carb side) with a caliper and went to a local hardware store that has a display setup that carries lengths of brass and aluminum tubing. Found the correct size in brass and tapped a piece into the carb with a nylon hammer and cut it off to about 10mm long. It was a good friction fit. A piece of tubing about 14" long was less than $3. Then I put a vacuum cap on it.
I think Hobby Lobby has these displays and so does Home Depot.
IR8D8R
Quote from: IR8D8R on May 27, 2020, 02:51:08 PM
I measured the injector tube (carb side) with a caliper and went to a local hardware store that has a display setup that carries lengths of brass and aluminum tubing. Found the correct size in brass and tapped a piece into the carb with a nylon hammer and cut it off to about 10mm long. It was a good friction fit. A piece of tubing about 14" long was less than $3. Then I put a vacuum cap on it.
IR8D8R
Thanks for the tip IR8D8R however I already ordered the correct fittings from Economy and hopefully the USPS delivers the parts soon so I can try and fire this thing up
Ok all the new parts I ordered came in and my central tool #278 ignition timing tool also arrived so I'm ready to get this going and I ran into another issue.
This is problem I'm having it's the same exact thing going on with my bike as in the video.
It's a continuous beep whether the points are opened or closed - I also disconnected the battery and it did not help.
Have you guys experienced this before - any suggestions?
Thank you!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq3bMRn2xyUguys also
You will have continuity when points open but a higher(?) resistance due to the primary(?) windings of the coil finding ground through the plugs. I use a test light that will light up when points open.
Is your weak spark related to having a resistor plug? How's your battery?
Thanks for the reply it didn't matter if I used a buzzer, a light or my old analog Simpson 260 mulitmeter the continuity would "NOT" break when the points opened.
What I did was remove the connection at the battery - removed the orange and gray point wires as well as the condenser wires and only then would the continuity break.
So once disconnected I was able to time the engine and double check it with the key on and the spark plug popped right at the dials 2.1mm BTDC mark so it's good to go.
Re-Installed the gas tank and filled it up with pre-mix fuel going to kick it over in the morning and hopefully it will fire up for it's 1st time in 27 years
How exciting! I'll cross my fingers for no expensive noises!
Jspooner: Thanks for the Autolube check procedure. I'll find Chuck's write up too.
I'm just finishing the re-upholstery of my Benelli Cobra seat, the last piece of it's resurrection (until the crank seals go!). After that I'll dive into the resurrection of my 400F, which has also been asleep since before I got it, and almost as long. I finished paying it off and took it home in '03 but it had already been sitting since at least '98 with a front brake cyl. problem, a fresh 2nd O.S. bore and only 5100 mi. So maybe only 22 years derelict. (I know, I know, but I was always a dirtbike guy, and had trauma from my older, street bike riding brother with crazy close-calls and hits from the Commuting Wars.)
Can't wait to hear...
C
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKhhQQJfHR4&feature=youtu.be
Fired up 2nd kick just took it around the block this machine is very happy and now it idles perfectly :whoop:
Thanks again everyone for the help great site great people :thumbs:
Congrats! :clap:
:righteous: :patriot:
Nice!
Chuck