Yeah so, thought i wanted some imput / tips /advice
My thought about this rd400 is it was gonna be somewhat reliable..
Its gonna get a total rebuild with fresh crank, bore, pistons, Electronic ignition.
My thought was this :
Stock airbox with uni filter in it
Stock carbs
Manifold with cross over tube
Boyesen reeds
Spec 1 classic pipes
What do you guys think? Anything to consider or sounds allright?
I do have a y boot air filter lying around as well.
8)
I would ditch the stock air box and use the Y boot. Reason is that it is easier to work on the carbs by sliding the Y boot back up and out of the way and the filter system is quite good.
Stock carbs is a good idea.
I am not a real fan of cross-over tubes; had one on my last street 400 and didn't see any real benefit/impact, but I'm not the most
sensitive guy to mid-throttle engine smoothness either. If it begins to buck a little, I simply down shift and gas it...
I find nothing wrong with OEM steel reeds. We used them for many years, both street and racing, before fiber reeds came out and I still use the steels on the street. I only had one steel crack on the track and it was a length wise fracture. I think broken reeds might come from people who cut the cages and aren't careful about leaving the rubber cushion seat. I do not believe anyone can tell the difference between fiber and steel reeds in street performance; maybe on a dyno but it won't be significant.
Lyn Garland
Thank you lyn
Noted :) :patriot:
I believe most do not recommend Boyesen (dual stage) reeds. If you want fiber reeds, the YZ125 reeds that EC sell, is a popular alternative to stock steel reeds. I have those in my 350, and they work Great.
Well now i have those reeds i might as well use Them 😁
But how about dave f mod carbs?
Do I use maybe a Reed spacer?
Ready many stock almost configs but with y boot, Dave f mod carbs, etc p :vroom:
I don't know too much about RD400, but been working with RD350 for a few years now.
Not sure what carb is on the 400, you'll need to do the dave mod to help with that midrange rich spot. It will help the transition with the banshee crossover tube intake. Use a nice sharp blade to cut the stuffer off of the intake and make sure its squared and straight. Get some yamabond/hondabond/threebond to help seal up your intake. As for the reeds, there was a thread about the reeds and the performance out of them depending on the porting, machine work, and carb setup.
Get yourself some "The Right Stuff" gasket sealer for the exhaust to properly seal it.
If you're going to go electronic ignition you have three great options: HPI, Dyna S, VAPE (priced lowest to highest). Right now you can get the HPI igniton for 300 dollars plus free shipping off of TREATLAND.TV with the coupon code nomore2020 (deal ends Aug 28th).
Like people said, ditch the airbox and get yours a nice Uni filter and prepare to upjet! You'll need a variety of jets to tune to your carbs. If you're going the dave F mod, then you'll be using a lower range on your main than with the stock set up.
Take your time and make sure you do a leak down test! People tend to ignore this step and they end up tuning to a terrible airleak.
Quick vote for the VAPE cdi kit. The price tag is deceiving since you will get new improved charging system as in addition to timing curve. Made a world of difference compared to the static points system "that works fine" but the VAPE cdi works way better than fine. John at Economy Cycle sends these out fast!
I already have a new power dynamo. Ignition