So I have spark at the plug on the left side. However I'm thinking maybe fuel is the problem so I'll need to take apart the carb I guess and see if there is any fuel in the bowl?
Also at first it felt like it was going to run away from me so I had to cut the power by turning the key to the off position.
Any tips on trouble shooting this further?
Here's a video
https://youtu.be/19Sstl-_fFQ
Covering the exhaust with hand
https://youtu.be/72ZLv4qH6zY
You have multiple issues from the sound of it -- high idle on the right and no fire on the left.
Is fuel flowing from the petcock to the left carb?
Check float levels and valves. (float level is ~15mm for a RD350)
Make sure the jets are completely clean, especially pilots. Have these carbs been cleaned recently?
Do the the slides move freely through their range and are they seated all the way down at idle?
Are the idle screws set correctly?
Is the crossover tube between the carbs connected?
Is this with the bad battery you recently posted about? A weak/faulty battery can cause it to run on one cylinder.
Quote from: SoCal250 on December 07, 2020, 01:35:46 PM
You have multiple issues from the sound of it -- high idle on the right and no fire on the left.
Is fuel flowing from the petcock to the left carb?
Check float levels and valves. (float level is ~15mm for a RD350)
Make sure the jets are completely clean, especially pilots. Have these carbs been cleaned recently?
Do the the slides move freely through their range and are they seated all the way down at idle?
Are the idle screws set correctly?
Is the crossover tube between the carbs connected?
Is this with the bad battery you recently posted about? A weak/faulty battery can cause it to run on one cylinder.
Hey Socal- thanks for your help with this. I've answered your questions below.
- Yes. Fuel is flowing from the petcock to the left carb.
- I rebuilt the carbs myself with parts from Chuck. I'll open the left carb tonight and check the float level.
- Yes, slides move freely and are seated at idle
- idle screw was tightened and then backed out 1 and a 1/4 turn on both carbs.
- Yes, crossover tube I conntected
- Yes, same battery. I added distilled water and put it on the tender so it's fully charged.
What does the plug on the non running side look like?
have you done a leak down test?
Quote from: rodneya on December 07, 2020, 03:47:42 PM
What does the plug on the non running side look like?
have you done a leak down test?
Looks dry. They leak down do you mean compression test? The motor was rebuilt. Installed installed new piston and rings. Plus cylinder bore and crank rebuild. I can do a compression test tonight
A leak down test is not a compression test. It checks for any leaks in the crankcase or any where in the 2 stroke pumping area, intakes etc, etc.
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Quote from: patastinky on December 07, 2020, 04:10:34 PM
Quote from: rodneya on December 07, 2020, 03:47:42 PM
What does the plug on the non running side look like?
have you done a leak down test?
Looks dry. They leak down do you mean compression test? The motor was rebuilt. Installed installed new piston and rings. Plus cylinder bore and crank rebuild. I can do a compression test tonight
Nope, leak down you plug the intakes and exhaust ports and pressurize to 6 psi for 6 to 10 mins to check for air leaks.
I agree, needs a leakdown performed. I think there are several things going on, air leak is possibly one of them.
Here's some info to help out with the test: THE TECH LIBRARY »ENGINE (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=55.msg233#msg233)
Quote from: SoCal250 on December 07, 2020, 06:34:50 PM
I agree, needs a leakdown performed. I think there are several things going on, air leak is possibly one of them.
Here's some info to help out with the test: THE TECH LIBRARY »ENGINE (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=55.msg233#msg233)
Cool. I downloaded the PDF and will build the tool to leak down test
Otherwise, is there anything else I can check too?
As an FYI Dorman makes the expansion plugs that fit the exhaust ports, they are part number 570-008 1 3/8 is the size.
Quote from: Djg8493 on December 08, 2020, 12:20:57 PM
As an FYI Dorman makes the expansion plugs that fit the exhaust ports, they are part number 570-008 1 3/8 is the size.
thank you
Take Joes advice and check your slides. Backward slides are a simple mistake that can be part of your running problem. I've seen it. "Cutouts face rear"
Just like Ed and Joe mentioned. Check the slides are in properly with cutout facing the air filter side. Also, check your cables where they seat into the top of the carb. I've had them hang up on the top of the adjuster and hold the slide up a little causing the same issue you're having. Good luck
Quote from: Djg8493 on December 08, 2020, 12:20:57 PM
As an FYI Dorman makes the expansion plugs that fit the exhaust ports, they are part number 570-008 1 3/8 is the size.
I made rubber gaskets out of inner tube that when sandwiched between header, or an exhaust bracket and cylinder seal it as well. :twocents:
Quote from: AAAltered on December 09, 2020, 01:19:46 PM
Take Joes advice and check your slides. Backward slides are a simple mistake that can be part of your running problem. I've seen it. "Cutouts face rear"
WAW back when, around 79 when I rebuilt my 350, I put it all back together, ran like shit. I could not figure it out. I called the guys who bored it and asked if it could need a bigger jet due to the new size. He said, you have your slides in the wrong carbs. I thought no, not posable.
Yep.
In addition to what everyone else said:
- put the air filter on - it's gonna run lean if you run the bike without it (unless you've up-jetted to compensate)
- either way, do a leak down like suggested (the way the revs were increasing in your video sounds like an air leak)
- did you check timing?
- are you getting spark on the left side if you rotate by hand (take plug out of cylinder but keep it in the boot, make sure it is rested against bare metal to properly ground, turn key and ignition switch, then rotate the crank slowly using the kick start or wrench on the left-side crankshaft bolt)?
- did you try swapping coils?