I've never seen this before using a battery to remove broken bolts - Thought it was worth sharing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUlJ5f2-FcQ
Seems like a good way to get burned... Literally, anyway lol. Good thinking though.
Looks like induction heaters have come down in price if your looking to do this process without the sketchy battery method.
https://www.amazon.com/Ductor-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B08JQ61KBM/ref=asc_df_B08JQ61KBM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459724827079&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18004086715870258695&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007218&hvtargid=pla-982532161617&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Ductor-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B08JQ61KBM/ref=asc_df_B08JQ61KBM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459724827079&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18004086715870258695&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007218&hvtargid=pla-982532161617&psc=1)
thats sketchy but if you've ever been a line tech, stuff like this (used) to happen all the time. would i use the battery trick on a bolt like that, in that particular situation? yes. But i would never use the one in the car itself. But theres other ways to make this happen. a good tig welder will get the heat directed more than the mig, and you can get it hot enough to get a nut on it to get it out. not so much with a mig in THAT particular scenario (aluminum heat sink/head)
way we used to do it: flap wheel, (to get flat), center punch, center drill, real drill, 90 degree air drill. till you can get in there. Luckily if somebody hadn't lost your left hand drill bit it will come out. then pull bolt remains out, then helicoil. that was the method we used to have to use on hondas and toyotas in NE kansas dealer i was at.
Luckily i dont do that for a living anymore, so now i have the time to pull a motor to deal with potentially broken exh studs. (just did last weekend on the galaxie actually)
Agree, I'm not playing down or against the use of sketchy methods, for work I actually travel all around visiting automotive shops so I've seen some interesting repair methods. We actually make a repair kit with hardware and new manifold for this. I was more surprised how cheap induction tools have gotten, they work awesome.
Quote from: Djg8493 on December 16, 2020, 02:41:10 PM
Agree, I'm not playing down or against the use of sketchy methods, for work I actually travel all around visiting automotive shops so I've seen some interesting repair methods. We actually make a repair kit with hardware and new manifold for this. I was more surprised how cheap induction tools have gotten, they work awesome.
For a lot of repairs and shops. I'm of the opinion if it's done, it's done. If I'm doing the work, I want it done right. If someone else is doing the work... I'd rather not see the methods involved. Just call me when it's done lol. Just ask my old '99 Silverado front wheel bearings if Propane, air hammers, Big Friggin' Hammers, and pry bars were a solid removal method approved by a dealer in a salty winter state. That was a day I really wish I didn't watch my buddy work lol. Also, well before I learned a method that kicks old school beatin' apparatus in the hind quarters. Turns a few hour job into a few minutes.
Knock stud out of bearing, separate a two jaw puller, line up with steering knuckle, and impact away. Bearings fall right out that way. Rust be damned.
if it stupid and it works, its not stupid.
:haw:
If it's stupid and it works it's still stupid but it worked and luckily you didn't get hurt.