After John finishes the porting and mills the heads, he's also milling the cylinders for RD400 gaskets. I'm switching out to fiber reeds (.020 Stage 2 TDR reeds) and installing reed spacers (EC 9mm ones).
I was running a 200 main jet on the Dave F mod (Drilled, not threaded for air jet).
I'm guessing I'll have to go up on the main jet to start over? So, should I try the 220 again or go higher?
what air filters? If unis id start at 230. might need a pilot and clip change but it wont be huge. the biggest jetting factor is the air intake.
Quote from: m in sc on February 05, 2021, 10:06:27 AM
what air filters? If unis id start at 230. might need a pilot and clip change but it wont be huge. the biggest jetting factor is the air intake.
Sorry should have specified.
Uni's on a 35 pilot.
yeah, id def start at 230 go from there. highest ive seen (claimed) on an rd with dave f mods was a 250 main.
Quote from: m in sc on February 05, 2021, 10:51:26 AM
yeah, id def start at 230 go from there. highest ive seen (claimed) on an rd with dave f mods was a 250 main.
Do you think the 35 pilots a bit high?
prob a good place to start.
Good to know. On another note, were the steering column locks silver soldered into place on the RD? Because, I cut around the powder coat for the lid of the steering lock and gave it a few taps with my trusty plastic hammer. It opened, but... I was a bit surprised as to what I found behind the door. So, unless they did that on purpose, it has to be what holds the lock column in place?
I'm not super pissed... just a little, because I used that lock maybe once at a bike night but it did work. I can leave the door closed and pretend I didn't see it I suppose.
I tried a propane torch and it wouldn't touch it.
Is that melted metal? Could only be what they made the lock tumbler part out of, although I would not have thought it would melt at powder coating temps
Quote from: rodneya on February 05, 2021, 09:01:56 PM
Is that melted metal? Could only be what they made the lock tumbler part out of, although I would not have thought it would melt at powder coating temps
That's what I was wondering. Because silver solder would only make sense if that was what held the the cylinder that the lock tumbler went into. But, I could be completely wrong as the whole thing is welded to the frame.
I mean, it's not life or death, but it is pretty annoying. I even thought I'd better take it off, but it was hard rivetted in place. No clue how I would fix it once drilled out. Maybe the only way to get the cover off would be to heat the rivet head red hot and try to squeeze it through the cover hole.
I think the outer part of the tumbler is pot metal that melted. The rivet should come out if you tap in 2 very fine thin chisels behind the cover and slowly work it. The whole rivet should come out of the frame.
Quote from: Striker1423 on February 05, 2021, 11:06:18 AM
Quote from: m in sc on February 05, 2021, 10:51:26 AM
yeah, id def start at 230 go from there. highest ive seen (claimed) on an rd with dave f mods was a 250 main.
Do you think the 35 pilots a bit high?
I don't think 35 pilots are out of the realm of reality. I may even step up to 35 this year.
I have Dave F mod tapped for air jets, individual UNI pods, TDR stage 2 reeds, crossover intakes and 1/4" thick spacers. I'm running 32.5 pilots now. Not ported and no head work.
Quote from: Striker1423 on February 05, 2021, 11:06:18 AM
Quote from: m in sc on February 05, 2021, 10:51:26 AM
yeah, id def start at 230 go from there. highest ive seen (claimed) on an rd with dave f mods was a 250 main.
Do you think the 35 pilots a bit high?
That's where I'd start.
Powder coating temp is supposed to be around 200C. Subject to powder manufacturer's specification...
White metal liquidus temp is ~350C. Free pouring temp is more like 425C.
Looks like someone overcooked the souffle. I would be irritated. They are supposed to look for things like that before they process. Nobody would expect powder coating to melt cast metal parts. I find nothing online that says that zinc can't be powder coated because of melting it. Lots of marine stuff has chunks of zinc.
Maybe their PID oven controller needs calibration? I don't know where the coating starts to degrade from temperature. It looks nice and glossy though for sure.
IR8D8R
loos like maybe some solution got trapped in there and boiled out?. weird. they def did not silver solder them in, and the lock cyl will be zinc, steel springs and brass tumblers.
It's hard like metal. My razor knife would kinda cut into it, but it wasn't coming out. I guess I can try to take the door off and see if what's left will come out.
EDIT:
On a side note, I realized I still haven't solved my wiring woes. This is a pain for me as I still run the stock lights and switches, but a VAPE ignition. I debated making my own harness, but I don't own the correct tools and as far as I'm concerned, I wonder if I could just EBAY or WTB a good used main harness and just remove what I don't need or won't use from it. Mainly the engine connections except the neutral switch wire. I even still have the lamp checker etc. Just don't know what is or isn't necessary at this point.
Quote from: Striker1423 on February 08, 2021, 09:13:00 PM
On a side note, I realized I still haven't solved my wiring woes.
You may want to check/clean ground connections and reinstall with some No-Ox. Then, using a meter, Ohm out the wires in the part of the harness causing an issue (looking for a floating value). If more than one part of the system is faulty (say lights and ignition as opposed to just lights), it's most probably a bad ground. Very little chance all of those wires failed at the same time unless there was a meltdown; in which case, the issue can be identified visually. Electrical gremlins are only an unknown until they become known. I like to know. Using process of elimination, you can identify the issue every time. Buying a used harness is a gamble as you may inherit someone else's issue/s without ever knowing what yours was to begin with.
I often find hidden poor connection between the wire and the connector.
Well, before the big kaboom, I had lost the headlight. Or so I thought. The low beam was not on. Switching to high beam turned the lamp on though. Consequently, once I restarted the motor to limp it home, the low beam worked again as usual. I figured either a connection vibrated loose, or perhaps the switch itself was losing contact. 75mph was an interesting vibration for the bike.
Regardless, my harness had broken wire repairs from myself, a complete re-wire of the neutral and tail light. Not to mention the speedometer tapped into it, etc. I figure either a fresh start, or a good used one might make the rebuild of my bike easier.
I'm considering putting the relay, and blinker behind the side cover somehow, just haven't come up with a good mounting solution yet. Also, the plug for the VAPE is annoyingly backwards to me. Meaning, the plug is fished from the frame instead of disconnected right at the motor. I've considered making a change there as well.
John @ EconomyCycle has new harnesses...
I'm aware and was debating that as well.