Is there a specific torque recommended for the big nut on the hollow carrier bolt where the rear axle goes through the assembly? I usually go pretty tight on those types of things; just until the wheel rotation starts to be impeded, then off a little. Found a value of 86-120 for the smaller axle nut, but nothing on the big one. How tight are your nuts? :devil:
Quote from: Greaser Greg on March 31, 2021, 10:20:15 AM
Is there a specific torque recommended for the big nut on the hollow carrier bolt where the rear axle goes through the assembly? I usually go pretty tight on those types of things; just until the wheel rotation starts to be impeded, then off a little. Found a value of 86-120 for the smaller axle nut, but nothing on the big one. How tight are your nuts? :devil:
If the wheel starts to drag with increasing torque, something is off. Or the torque applied is ridiculous. If all bearings are correct size, seated all the way in a clean bore, and correct spacers are installed, nothing should ever bind.
Quote from: Greaser Greg on March 31, 2021, 10:20:15 AM
How tight are your nuts? :devil:
Well, I'm 52; so, not as tight as they used to be. But, thanks for asking. I was beginning to think no one cared. :whistle:
Quote from: Dvsrd on March 31, 2021, 12:40:55 PM
If all bearings are correct size, seated all the way in a clean bore, and correct spacers are installed, nothing should ever bind.
This....
You should be able to strip the threads on the axle and/or nut before something starts to bind.
I had an old KZ400 that I messed with a little and it would slow down the rotation a tad when overtightened.
So, somewhere around 85-90 is fine for the R5 hub carrier?
I was cranking it down incrementally last night and something went clang, so I took it apart to inspect. Looks like the hub carrier was in wrong. The flat spots on the threads weren't lined up right with the frame so it must have popped into place and made the noise. May have also been cocked in the hub. The chain tension adjusters weren't the same length with the tire equal distances from swingarm sides, either. It wasn't turning freely when I took it apart. Cleaned up the threads, scraped the powder coat off the frame and it all went back together easier than it came apart, and spins freely.
Quote from: Inov8 on March 31, 2021, 12:55:03 PM
Quote from: Greaser Greg on March 31, 2021, 10:20:15 AM
How tight are your nuts? :devil:
Well, I'm 52; so, not as tight as they used to be. But, thanks for asking. I was beginning to think no one cared. :whistle:
Ha! I'm 53 and still trying to figure mine out. :sad:
This....
You should be able to strip the threads on the axle and/or nut before something starts to bind.
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I dont think that the big nut on the sprocket carrier actually does anything after the axle is tightened. The other end of the carrier sits against the wheel bearing and everything is squished together when the axle is tightened. I just snug the nut up after everything else is tight.
My 73 RD350 has a spoked rear disk hub from a euro 400, so I had to cut a carrier at the flat parts that go into the swing arm and use just the outside threaded part as a spacer to make up the gap to the threads on the axle.
Then again, I don't use a torque wrench for anything other than on the head.
also its a very fine thread. 40-50 ft lbs are more than enough, but i never torque them with a wrench either. but it does hold the LH side in place even after the main axle nut is tight. the axle tightens against the outer sleeve end. if you dont tighten the big nut it can 'float'
Just about there
HEY! I resemble that remark! :tung2-1:
jesus christ that pic! i just did my crank balancer on my 390 and it wasn't about to snap the breaker bar. :dawg: