Hi All,
I changed all bulbs to LED and changed the Flasher to LED Flasher. Every thing is working as it should, but the stop indicator is blinking always, Brake ON or OFF. Please advise
Thanks
it works off resistance, you took almost all of it out with an led. either unplug the warning lamp, add a resistor in line, or stick a regular bulb back in there.
I had the same issue, going to have to go back to regular bulbs.
Thanks guys,
Will update you later.
Power saving from the brake light is neglible, as it should stay off all the time 8)
Did you replace just the taillight bulb, or the entire taillight?
If it is a custom setup, maybe 21w bulb+LED is possible? At least on my European 350A, it should be pretty easy to add a LED tail+brake light inside the original twilight, in addition to a 21W conventional bulb.
Tried different combination Yesterday, By removing tail light and putting back the old one, same issue. It works good only when I change signal lights and speedo and tacho bulbs(all the rest should be incandesent). I may have to live with it. My main intention was to change head light, Head light and signal lights. Read about adding resistors. If any one done this upgrade successfully, please advise.
Quote from: KANDY on April 12, 2019, 09:47:54 AM
Tried different combination Yesterday, By removing tail light and putting back the old one, same issue. It works good only when I change signal lights and speedo and tacho bulbs(all the rest should be incandesent). I may have to live with it. My main intention was to change head light, Head light and signal lights. Read about adding resistors. If any one done this upgrade successfully, please advise.
What do you want to achieve by going to LED? Lower power consumption will not happen if you throw resistors into the mix. If you want to use different (smaller, lighter, different design) indicator lights, taillight then it still makes sense. Or if you want more longevity than regular bulbs.
My Intention was Lower Power consumption. The resistors have at least 50W, then as you said dont make any sense. May be I will mix and match LED and Incandescent to lower power consumption and function the electrical as it should. Again If any one done this upgrade successfully, please advise.
IVE HAD DIFFERENT BIKES THAT WERE prone to vibrate and blow bulbs, so led is good there if nothing else.
id unplug the warning lamp, stuff the led back in and call it a day. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on April 12, 2019, 03:23:29 PM
IVE HAD DIFFERENT BIKES THAT WERE prone to vibrate and blow bulbs, so led is good there if nothing else.
id unplug the warning lamp, stuff the led back in and call it a day. :twocents:
This ;)
I have full LED's in every operational bike I own. No issues whatsoever.
Quote from: KANDY on April 10, 2019, 02:19:34 PM
Hi All,
I changed all bulbs to LED and changed the Flasher to LED Flasher. Every thing is working as it should, but the stop indicator is blinking always, Brake ON or OFF. Please advise
Thanks
the brake light is not connected to the flasher unit. the flasher unit is not connected to the brake. don't know what you did but you have to trace back to where the brake light got shorted to the indicator.
changing to all led's allow many bikes to run with out a battery. it also allows bikes with alternators to run on a tiny battery. it really takes the stress off the charging system. the conversion should be as easy as changing bulbs and flasher. they come in all the popular sizes, 1157, 1156, t4.
the old flasher units have a bi-metal strip that heats up as current flows breaking the contact momentarily flashing the bulb. the current led's draw is not enough to heat up the old design flasher. led flashers work on a different principal. they have a timer on a chip that flashes the indicator. it is voltage dependent not current dependent. many electronic devices work this way today.
read my post in the tech section about led's. this will put you miles ahead of others giving advise. putting resistors is a bad idea. do not do it. you are correct about resistors. they don't add 50w that's a max rating. what they do is allow enough current to flow to make a old style flasher unit work. they defeat the purpose. the indicator bulbs in the speedo do not need to be changed. use them as is.
hes talking about the stock 'brake lamp indicator' light on rd250/350s, not the turn signal flasher. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on April 15, 2019, 09:03:42 AM
hes talking about the stock 'brake lamp indicator' light on rd250/350s, not the turn signal flasher. :twocents:
I am talking about the 'brake lamp indicator' they don't flash. the op is not wired correctly. it does not matter what bike you are talking about.
Quote from: Redbird on April 12, 2019, 10:24:35 PM
Quote from: m in sc on April 12, 2019, 03:23:29 PM
IVE HAD DIFFERENT BIKES THAT WERE prone to vibrate and blow bulbs, so led is good there if nothing else.
id unplug the warning lamp, stuff the led back in and call it a day. :twocents:
This ;)
I have full LED's in every operational bike I own. No issues whatsoever.
so do I.
in a stock setup, if the bulb is out when the brake is applied, they absolutely do flash.
Quote from: m in sc on April 15, 2019, 09:03:42 AM
hes talking about the stock 'brake lamp indicator' light on rd250/350s, not the turn signal flasher. :twocents:
Yes, I am
Thanks for all the replies,
Currently I made it to a reasonably satisfying condition. Put the tail light bulb back(incandescent), Neutral LED, All 4 turn signals LED, Head Light H4(35W) not LED.
Checked the charging system and found 13.8 at 2500 RPM. My New LED Headlight bulb is on the way. Will put that and update soon.
bracket maker, I will look in to the wiring and see any shortage in my wiring.
Thanks again
Quote from: m in sc on April 15, 2019, 09:49:20 AM
in a stock setup, if the bulb is out when the brake is applied, they absolutely do flash.
mark really knows his stuff, it's not two people saying different things. we probably are saying the same thing. I called it a short. it is. mark says its wired like that stock. believe him. nothing wrong to running a jumper to fix antique circuits to do modern things. when I say the led flasher is voltage dependent I don't mean you are not charging. I mean the 12v led flasher won't work on a 6v bike. no problem with the old flashers that run on current not voltage. also you can't run an led flasher on ac 6 or 12. fine with the old type.
don't kill yourself if you can't find the problem. run a jumper to the stop indicator straight to the ignition switch and don't look back. very happy with my h4 led headlight its bright enough and allows me to do things not possible with old tech.
Quote from: m in sc on April 10, 2019, 02:21:05 PM
it works off resistance, you took almost all of it out with an led. either unplug the warning lamp, add a resistor in line, or stick a regular bulb back in there.
this is really weird. I didn't know this was a known defect in the rd250/350. led's work on any bike with a battery by definition.
run a jumper from the battery (ignition) to the tail to fix.
if the harness is stock, there's a component under the steering neck behind the horn that is designed to cause the light to flash if the bulb is out.
371-84708-00-00 CHECKER, LIGHT
by now, a lot of these have been unplugged or removed, but they never seem to fail if they are plugged in. not a defect, its there by design to do exactly what it did. :twocents:
item #35
https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy?ls=Road&nw=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/RD350A_-_1974/ELECTRICAL
Quote from: m in sc on April 17, 2019, 08:07:22 AM
if the harness is stock, there's a component under the steering neck behind the horn that is designed to cause the light to flash if the bulb is out.
371-84708-00-00 CHECKER, LIGHT
by now, a lot of these have been unplugged or removed, but they never seem to fail if they are plugged in. not a defect, its there by design to do exactly what it did. :twocents:
item #35
https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy?ls=Road&nw=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/RD350A_-_1974/ELECTRICAL
I knew you know your stuff. its an antique part for an antique design. It's not a defect if you run antique bulbs, it is a defect if you want to run led's. so this part just needs to be unplugged?
yup. but, you lose the stock warning lamp. personally, i never ran one anyway.
this is what I mean about how much less wire is in a modern harness. I'm sure all these extra wires are 14 guage too. It also shows why I said to bypass the harness altogether. just visualize me pulling my hair out trying to find a relay behind the horn when the problem is at the ass end in the tail light.
i get your point, but not everybody wants to rewire a bike. My r5 is dead stock wiring, works fine. most bikes do. 47 years on, no wiring issues. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on April 17, 2019, 11:07:48 AM
i get your point, but not everybody wants to rewire a bike. My r5 is dead stock wiring, works fine. most bikes do. 47 years on, no wiring issues. :twocents:
unplugging an antique relay is not a rewire. there is no member of this site that can't run a wire from the hot side of the ignition switch to the brake light switch. adding a jumper is not a rewire. that's is my point. no bike needs to be rewired today. switch to led's and any 6v can run 12v using the stock wiring. all that's needed for the conversion is a 12v battery and 12v regulator. the wiring does not get touched.
the only bikes that need new harnesses are the mx conversions where the po has stripped out all the lighting circuits.
I'm glad your 47 yo bike is bone stock. all the rest of us would use a modern rec/reg. the stock mechanical regulator is crap.
nah, its fine as it is. its been working since 1970 and is in good shape. And i mentioned earlier, i usually don't run one of the dash indicators either, i usually unplug it (mostly because i find the red light coming on on the dash a distraction when im driving).
Most of my bikes are rewired completely.. (but most aren't stock either), but a well sorted stocker works just fine as well. what usually kills them is a low battery and overloading the charging system. (and corrosion of the connectors if not maintained).
Quote from: bracket maker on April 15, 2019, 08:48:00 AM
read my post in the tech section about led's. this will put you miles ahead of others giving advise...
::)