I started this last week, 2 kicks & running.
Yesterday went to start it & nothing.
Checked fuses, gas, pulled plug & kicked & I get spark.
( I will check other side tonite )
Any thoughts of what to check next?
Thanks.
M
if you have spark.. the petcock probably was leaking and flooded the motor. vacuum petcocks SUCK. PULL plugs, kick over a lot. clear motor out, then try again.
If its a lack of spark... if its the stock cdi box, more than likely the box took a shit. time to get a hold of zeeltronic. :twocents:
also make sure the kill switch, clutch switch and sidestand switch are operating correctly.
The float does not stop this?
" also make sure the kill switch, clutch switch and sidestand switch are operating correctly. "
Dont have a sidestand switch.
But if others were bad I would not get spark, right.
M
nope. if it did it wouldn't need a petcock.
your bike should have a side stand switch. its probably been removed.
If this is the case that the motor gets flooded.
How is this fixed?
I did pull of the outlet tube, and in On & Reserve nothing came out.
Prime position it ran out.
M
yup.
fit a manual petcock.
thats my suggestion, or fit an inline cut off from the vacuum one to the carbs.
or rebuild the stock petock and make sure your tank is absolutely spotless inside. one tiny flake of rust can let it seep by.
TDR has a vacuum petcock.
I got tired of messing around with it, so I just bought a Motion Pro inline valve and put it in the fuel line between the petcock and carbs.
TDR has a single outlet petcock with a T splitter fitting above the carbs, so it was easy. Dunno if RZ has a single or dual outlet 'cock.
(https://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/9af269f47cbf3fc1789619a92de1a29a/t/u/tu15-0995_01.jpg)
To start a flooded motor if it's really bad, remove plugs and kick it over to expel surplus fuel. Otherwise, throttle wide open and kick until it starts to pick up and don't close the throttle until it clears its throat and starts to rev.
Quote from: pdxjim on November 07, 2022, 08:27:59 PM
TDR has a vacuum petcock.
I got tired of messing around with it, so I just bought a Motion Pro inline valve and put it in the fuel line between the petcock and carbs.
TDR has a single outlet petcock with a T splitter fitting above the carbs, so it was easy. Dunno if RZ has a single or dual outlet 'cock.
(https://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/9af269f47cbf3fc1789619a92de1a29a/t/u/tu15-0995_01.jpg)
so does the tzr and both the concourses i had. had/have the same valve on all of them. on the rz i had a manual petcock .. might have been a yamaha raptor one i retrofitted w a single outlet to a y-splitter to the flatslides.
RZ has a single outlet with a T downstream, and no clutch switch.
OP, what year is your RZ? 84 CDI boxes are prone to fail and be intermittent. 85 CDI boxes are better. I have a video on my YT channel showing how to convert from 84 to 85 CDI. Or by a zeel which is probably a better solution.
You have some good suggestions to troubleshoot the problem. If you have spark try the wide open throttle while you kick it process.
I have used secondary fuel valves on my RZ350's and RZV500 due to leaky stock vacuum petcocks. For about 10 years. Last I checked brand-new OEM replacement petcocks are still available for the 350. I believe they were around $120.
I recently reworked one of my modified stock petcocks and modified two more in the video below.
Good luck! I hope you get the problem rectified.
i stand corrected on the clutch switch, mine had a different perch on it when i got it.
^ good advice on the petcock right there. :cheerleader:
Pulled the plugs out last nite.
Put a twisted paper towel down hole.
Came out dry.
cranked it about 10 times.
Put plugs back in.
Kicked it. seemed like it wanted to start, but then not.
Took plugs out again.
Kicked over about 20 times.
Put new plugs in.
Kicked, wanted to start, kicked again, wanted to start, did this about 2 more times, but no go.
Almost seems like it is getting no gas.
Bike is a 31K 1985 from europe.
So not sure about the CDI.
m
You must have fuel, compression, oxygen and spark (at the right time) to run. Spark is easiest to check: if you don't have one, go buy one at the auto parts store, outdoor power equipment dealership or any tool truck. Got spark and all the other three? Time to check timing. A rotor that has turned on the crank is not likely, but possible (ask pdxjim).
Sounds like you suspect no fuel; add a little. A few drops in a plug hole, spray a little carburetor cleaner in through an open carburetor, etc. If it fires on the introduced fuel but won't continue to run, you have found your issue. How old is the fuel you're trying to feed it? Try your diagnostics with known fresh fuel.
Compression can be as simple and crude to check as putting your thumb over an open spark plug hole while kicking the engine over; the cylinder oughtta suck on your thumb a bit and then push it off the hole. If you want a number, use a compression gauge. Note: ground the spark plug wire while doing this. Common lore is that electronic ignitions don't like to send sparks out into the world on their own. I use a jumper wire with alligator clips.
Is it getting oxygen? A show of hands, please, from everyone who's pulled a shop rag out of an air cleaner. How did that get there?
A systematic approach WILL uncover the problem!
Gas is good, just filled with Non-ethanol.
I will try some fuel in the plug hole next.
For the Zeel I see 3 options for the YPVS, so which one?
M
if you are keeping it stock, just get the cdi replacement one.
https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rz-350/electrical/ignitions/zeeltronic-cdi-ignitions-controllers/cdiignition-pv-controllers/zeeltronic-stock-replacement-cdi-for-yamaha-rz350-requires-no-programming/
The bike has the F2 exhausts on it, and a larger set of jets.
So stick with that stock CDI unit?
M
" Otherwise, throttle wide open and kick until it starts to pick up and don't close the throttle until it clears its throat and starts to rev. "
Tried this.
Fired up. :burnout:
Why would it lose its fuel prime while just sitting for that week only?
M
Evaporation...?
Quote from: Milan on November 08, 2022, 05:50:26 PM
" Otherwise, throttle wide open and kick until it starts to pick up and don't close the throttle until it clears its throat and starts to rev. "
Tried this.
Fired up. :burnout:
Why would it lose its fuel prime while just sitting for that week only?
M
That's great news. As to WHY? Why do motorcycles do stuff like that? It's in their nature. Run fine for years with total neglect and one day they just decide that today is the day to fight back. It may be as simple as a spec of dirt in the fuel tap holding it off its seat just enough to allow it to flood. Or the float needle was slightly sticky from ethanol in the fuel and the humidity was high or the ambient temperature or pressure changed enough to allow something to weep.
I normally leave the fuel tap on ON or Run or whatever they label it as except after standing for a while and then I start it on prime just to make sure there's fuel in the bowls. Flooded motors happen and teh old wide open throttle trick usually works.
thats why they have a prime setting. glad it was that simple.
If a bike has been sitting for awhile, I lean it over til fuel runs out the the carb overflows before attempting to start.
The thing is it only sat from Sunday to sunday
That's all it takes! Sometimes it happens overnight :bang:
When mine did the major flood out thing from the petcock leaking, I put a RD400 petcock on it and ran 2 hoses, one to each carb. It fits nice and you can reach it through the hole in the side panel. Remember to cap off the vacuum port on the carb that was used for the original petcock.
http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13677
Here's how I did mine. I will be doing it again on the gray RZ.