I can't tell you how stoked I am. But we have some issues.
First, some knucklehead installed the rear sets/pegs (me) in such a way that I can barely kick it. So, I used my arm, fired in 4 pushes.
Main issue, tach was all over the place for a bit which is weird since it's well, mechanical and I did not have this issue before I tore into it. Once I shut it off tach needle stayed at 2000.It finally settled down, some, not sure if it happens again, guessing yes. I can tap the glass and it will go to zero, so I'm not even sure I can trust the readings. I took it apart months ago and cleaned the glass, i guess it could be that????
I cannot get it to idle under 2200, that is if the tach is correct. Unscrewed idle screws so they do not touch slides at all, it decreased, but it was at 2400 before. Is this a slide issue, do I need to try and adjust slides down using cable if possible. Or should I hold off until I figure out tach? By the way, any idea what i should do about tach?
By the way, the pipes sound great, so much better than those frickn power pipes. And, compared to that blendzall, it barely smokes. That blendzall smoked out my garage to all hell and back.
Thanks all.
Make sure the tach cable is lubed. I'm sure you've already done that.
Also make sure it's properly seating into the gauge drive. If the gauge is sticking after the engine is off it sounds like the gauge may need to come apart again to be checked and possibly lubed, especially if you've been into it before. After the gauge is stuck at 2K does it drop back down to zero if you unscrew the cable from it or does it continue to hang?
Are the slides dropping all the way down into the bores? Can you hear a dull "thunk" when you open the throttle and then let it go. You should be able to see a very small gap under each slide with the throttle off. As I recall it should be a little less than the width of a 1/8" drill bit.
Are the carb slides in the correct sides? (cutout facing the filter)
Do you have the enrichener circuit connector hose in place? (The small hose connecting the carbs together)
First, thanks for responding so quickly.
I did not lube the tach cable, lubed the speedo though. :whistle: I'll pull it and give that a shot.
I'll fire it up and see if removing cable from tach causes it to drop to zero. Right now, once I turn it off, its sticks. I can tap the glass when bike is off, and it will drop to zero after a few taps.
Slides clunk, per say, but not sure how far they drop. But from my hazy memory, I think they are higher than an eighth inch. Will take a look. I synched the carbs using the popsicle (actually used something way thinner), method a few weeks back, so I might have f-ed that up. Plus, the bars were changed, cable pulled off, etc.
Looks like I have some hunting and pecking.
Will first start with tach cause I don't trust it. Hopefully I don't have to open it up, that's a royal pain.
Thanks again.
If you swapped out bars, check the the throttle cable to make sure the cable housing ends are not hung up and are seated into the adjusters. Also check the splitter under to the tank. Moving things around may have caused the cable housing to pull apart and not reseat.
Easiest to just look at the slides to ensure they are returning fully to their resting position.
Pulled cable at tach, fired bike up, spins great. Sprayed cable lube in there. Removed, attach, remove, attach but it still hangs up. I'm pretty sure it's the tach, and until I sort that, don't really want to F with anything else cause I'm not sure where it's really idling at.. ugh!
Pet cock. When I painted the tank, took it off and it looks like it's fine, but what do I know. It's not original, looks like its maybe a few years old. I put a gallon of gas in it which turned a nice shade of blue with that Honda oil I put in it. I can only see gas in the lines when it's on reserve. How far up should gas be in the lines, how many inches up from the carbs. On reserve it's about 2 inches up. When I switch it over to ON, it still runs but it sure looks like there isn't any gas in the lines unless it's a slow trickle that I can't really see? Is it okay to run bike in reserve position, guessing yes or it wouldn't be there, or is 1 gallon of gas not enough.
Thanks
Fiddled with pilot/air screws. If I turn air screws in all the way, the bike barley changes idle at all. Definitely doesn't shut off. Same with opposite adjustment. Now, based on what I have read, and correct me if I'm wrong here, but that means the bike might be idling on the needle which I assume means the slides are too high?
Slides should bottom out no problem if you turn the idle screws out and let the carbs close. If they hang up, as the other post from today, the adjusters may be outta whack and need a reseat. Is it a new cable? There's a short and a long set of cables, for a high and low top carburetor.
Original cable. There was zero play in the cable. The person before had it so if you twist throttle minutely, it revved. I just played with the adjustment at the grip and now have about a quarter of an inch play. Loosened up the adjustments at the carbs as well, slides look to be all the way down. :cheerleader: Ran out of time to fire it.
I need to address the petcock, must have gunk in the tank as I can't get fuel to show in the lines when it's in the ON position. Unless 1 gallon of gas isn't enough, reserve is fine.
Idle rpm question. Idle for these bikes should be 12-1300. I did a lot of searching online for vids with 350's idling with chambers, and the ones I found, most look to have rpms around 1600 or higher, does it really matter all that much as long as it's not above a certain rpm's?? Some vids where bikes are idling around 1200 sounds like they are about to stall.
Going to remove tank, pull tach cable and thoroughly clean the inside. I unscrewed it at the tach, pulled it so it was hanging down, ran bike some, let it sit and thick oily sludge leaked out. I'll then pull petcock and see what's up.
I also need to figure out the kick starter. It's one that is for rear sets in that its bent properly and worked fine with old set. But the way I had to install the new cobbled together set because of the pipes and kickstand, they stick too far out. I'm thinking I'm going to cut the ends off the pegs as right now they are way too long as is.
Regarding the rearset interference.... If you have a torch and vise, they can be bent.
The easy way is to use an RZ kick lever. It's plug and play.(https://i.ibb.co/LQr7XT2/IMG-6814-Original.jpg)
I have the same lever as you do, but I had to shim out the pegs in order for it to work properly with my cobbled rearsets. The pegs on the rear sets are long to begin with, and with it shimmed, it's kind of goofy looking. Two options, bend the lever even more, or cut pegs. I think I'll cut pegs.
thx
If you decide to heat and bend the kick arm further, make sure you disassemble the the arm and remove the kick boss. The heat will damage the spring (#4).
rd350_kick_boss.jpg
For the rear set issue, I think I might have a solution. The company I bought it from provides foldable pegs. Of course, I went the cheap route saving a whopping 20 bucks and went with fixed. :bang: Waiting to hear back if they will sell me one peg.
Tach: Pulled cable off, cleaned the heck out of it, then decided to spin tach with a drill, same issue. Well, I have a nice clean cable now. Took tach apart, again, this time I got into the internals, and it was filled with all sorts of gunk, including some metal filings. Blew it out, cleaned the heck out it, fixed!
Next up..... Why doesn't gas flow when it's in the ON position. Stayed tuned folks for another episode of: How can Lawrence fix something he screwed up himself. Done for the day, will pull tank, petcock in next few days.
Thanks again for all.
The significant other had a phone date, so I tore into gas tank. Petcock is fine, but I cleaned it just in case. It has a hvccycle petcock and the main pickup is really tall. No way in hell one gallon of gas was enough for it draw. Another lesson learned.
no, always test on reserve. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on June 25, 2023, 05:41:41 PMno, always test on reserve. :twocents:
Well, what do you know, I actually did something right. I just didn't realize how high into the tank the petcock went.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get her fired up and check timing, then go from there.
IF you do wind up bending the kicker, remember, bend it as low to the knuckle mount as possible. yields a less severe angle and doesnt look too wonky
.02
Not sure If I should create another thread, figured I would just add to this. Besides the tach cable that is missing, pretty I'm missing something that holds that collar in place because it spins?
its a little fork with a bolt hole out of sheet metal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/311419439013?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2ppGqY84TBq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=9DXeqLNdSLW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Awesome, thx.
Checked timing, made a cardboard cone to stop light getting in. Tried it without, bike acted wonky as hell. It was set at 2.0. I don't have a dial indicator, used my old sears timing light. Eyeballed it and set it about 2/16's to the right on mark.
set it with the trailing side of the alternator rotor line -just- to the left of the housing mark. right now you have it advanced if the rotor mark is to the right of the alternator mark. .02
Thank god I mentioned this. Okay, here is a pic so I get this straight in my old head. The red mark in this pix is where I have it which I take it is the wrong side?
By the way, this isn't my ignition, I have one of yours.
remember, the motor turns the same way as the wheels of the bike. so, that would fire early the way you have it.
this is -approx- 1.8-1.7 btdc,of course not exact but safe.
Cool, got it now, thx. It's the whole counterclockwise thing that gets me.
I bought this doohickey on the premises that it would not leak but it weeps. Does anyone know one like this that doesn't?
ive had good luck with ones that john at economy sells, not so much with amazon ones.
The one I bought is a motion pro so I figured it should work pretty well, has pretty good reviews too. Found some Viton O-rings on McMaster, cheap, will try that first, I guess. If not, I might go the metal route, but concerned about the weight and the line sagging after a while, or maybe not?
Thx.
im having the same issue with the tzr, but the lines are a whopping 3/8 out of the tank.
Ive had those couplers just fall apart on me, so i went the marine fuel line route for the coupler, all metal but 37 bucks a set. :/
I have these on my 500 for about 8 years now. No leaks. Shut off fuel when disconnected. I think they are 3/8 but were available in 1/4 and straight. I would have to look up where I purchased them from if you are interested.
(https://i.imgur.com/uCDJSQA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5X31LZj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O8ptfWH.jpg)
Those look like a version of the metal ones I see for sale, frickn expensive. If the new O-ring route doesn't work, I'll go that route. The O-ring on the device now looks too thin, like it has been in the closed position for too long.
I am, also like the fact they are 90 degree as well. :patriot:
The new O-ring fixed it. I bought a few sizes. The one that matched up to the original was too thick so it would not snap in. The one that worked was tiny and had to be stretched like crazy to fit into groove. But it worked so I'll take it. And since you get a bag of 25 for like 6 bucks, if they wear, no biggie.
You should lightly oil the O-ring with a dab of two-stroke before connecting the two sides. It will keep the O-rings from tearing and make them last longer. I keep mine lubricated and no issues so far (same Motion-Pro dual-shutoff quick disconnects).
Thx, will do.
Finally had some time here and there to get the bike almost sorted. Fixed the rear brake as it wasn't grabbing well. I tried so many different configurations to try and rid myself of all the linkage in the rear set, but just wasn't going to happen. Chain was loose after first few rides, fixed that. I added a foldable peg for the kick start side and bent the kick lever some as it barely touched the brake lever peg, so that works a treat now. I was able to move the pipes in toward the tire more, this allowed me to remove almost all the shims, pegs and rear-sets wise. The side stand looks like a piece of spaghetti, but it now tucks up against the frame. Attached a half inch aluminum block to bottom so the lean isn't so bad now. Front brake caliper needs to be rebuilt; the inside puck/pad is dragging on disc. Tried cleaning out that tiny pin hole in master but that didn't help.
Can anything be done about a grabby clutch. I really can't slip it all that much taking off in first. I let it out and it pretty much just grabs. The person before put Barnett springs in it, then took 3 out and replaced those with stock. I have no idea what type of clutch plates are in there, guessing Barnett as well.
i like ebc springs and barnette frictions plates are grabby as you say, i dont like them tbh. try some 2050 castrol synthetic 4t motorcycle oil in the trans. might calm id down
Will do, thx.
Quote from: AAAltered on June 25, 2023, 09:40:50 AMRegarding the rearset interference.... If you have a torch and vise, they can be bent.
The easy way is to use an RZ kick lever. It's plug and play.(https://i.ibb.co/LQr7XT2/IMG-6814-Original.jpg)
Ohhhh Pretty
Front brake caliper shims, mine don't have them, but they are in a box of parts I got with bike, are they really needed? Thx.
NOT REALLY.