Hello all,
I could not pass up an r5 bottom end at Mid Ohio. Couple questions: Is it correct that R5's were only produced in 350cc? I need to get some cylinders and heads and just wanted to know what my options were. Also I have a couple of spare transmissions, can you put a 6 speed transmission into a 5 speed r5 case? Just curious of the differences between the 5 speed and 6 speed bottom ends.
As usual I appreciate all of the knowledge on this forum.
Thanks
r5 cases can be used for 250 or 350, rd r5, ds7, etc.., and yes you can put a 6 speed in there (but oyu have to change everything in regards to the transmissions drum/linkage, etc.
The real big 2 differences between r5/ds7 cases and rd250/350 cases is:
no 3 screw bearing retainer behind the clutch basket (so you have to use stepped washer on the clutch shaft) and
2: no grooves for the crank seals to set in, so you must use R5 crank seals. thats basically it. (and thats fine)
Thanks m in sc,
And there goes my hope of using the extra seals I bought by mistake for my rd. Just an update about my rd and the petcock/gas issues that you helped with before. The coil mount I made for the HPI coil was cracked or breaking and it finally broke. Also cleaned out the fuel inlet on the carbs. They were sonic cleaned but i am guessing there was some hard residue in there that was not cleaned out. Fingers crossed that this fixed the issue.
Thanks again!
Quote from: m in sc on July 31, 2024, 02:47:05 PMr5 cases can be used for 250 or 350, rd r5, ds7, etc.., and yes you can put a 6 speed in there (but oyu have to change everything in regards to the transmissions drum/linkage, etc.
The real big 2 differences between r5/ds7 cases and rd250/350 cases is:
no 3 screw bearing retainer behind the clutch basket (so you have to use stepped washer on the clutch shaft) and
2: no grooves for the crank seals to set in, so you must use R5 crank seals. thats basically it. (and thats fine)
Hello again, I have some additional questions about swapping an RD 6 speed transmission into an R5 case. I have the transmission gear set. From my understanding I also need to use the RD Shift Drum and forks. Is there any other parts that I need to use from the RD? Also per what m in sc said, what is the stepped washer I need to use behind the clutch basket on the clutch shaft? Is it SPACER 1 | F/0024515 Part# 278-16181-01-00, basically the stock spacer behind the R5 clutch basket as there is not retainer behind the clutch basket on an R5 case. Thanks as always for the help!
The part 278-16181-01-00 you mentioned is a spacer which is used in all the models; R5, DS7, RD350, RD250.
That part is #16 in the diagram
The stepped washer Mark is referring to is #17 in the diagram: PLATE, THRUST 1 278-16154-00-00, which is used instead of the RD250/RD350 part THRUST PLATE 360-16154-00-00
Yam R5C clutch.jpg
As usual thanks for the help and knowledge on this forum its greatly appreciated.
Quote from: SoCal250 on November 13, 2024, 01:01:24 PMThe part 278-16181-01-00 you mentioned is a spacer which is used in all the models; R5, DS7, RD350, RD250.
That part is #16 in the diagram
The stepped washer Mark is referring to is #17 in the diagram: PLATE, THRUST 1 278-16154-00-00, which is used instead of the RD250/RD350 part THRUST PLATE 360-16154-00-00
Yam R5C clutch.jpg
progress! and sorry about the seal thing.. my bad. I just forgot about the lack of the lip groove
If you have to source a transmission anyway, you might want to consider using an RD400 trans instead. Details are in the tech section. Supposed to be much better 5th and 6th gear ratios. I'm going to do it the next time I split my cases.
I believe that you need to use the 400 clutch basket also.
IR8D8R
you do. nice thing is banshee/rz baskets swap so lots of aftermarket options.
That would be nice but I have a couple of RD transmissions in a box of parts that got given to me. The price is right on an RD 6 speed.
Good morning, I have a quick question. I am doing the 6 speed swap. Is there any differences between the 6 and 13 spine main shaft. I have inner hubs for both and I have both 6 and 13 spline main shafts. I think I am correct that is the main shaft and not countershaft. It is the shaft the clutch basket goes on. Thanks again.
If it is a 350 6-speed, all the R5 clutch bits and countershaft sprocket will swap over. If it is a 400 6-speed, you will need a 400 (or Banshee) inner clutch hub and a 400 pressure plate and springs/bolts, as well as a switch to a 400 c/s sprocket. The R5 clutch and basket should be fine if you have a 350 6-speed and are sticking with the R5 clutch assy. However you may need a bit of 'three-card-monty' with the fiber and steel plates to get the correct pressure and friction if switching to a mix of later 350 or 400 bits with the R5 basket.
The 6-spline drive end (clutch side) is 400. The output shaft also has a 6-spline output c/s end.
IIRC, the 6 spline is the same as an H2, H1 and GT750. 13 spline is the same as a TZ250/350. GS750, 1100, GSXR and a few others. Check the JT sprockets listings to be 100% sure though.
Thanks for the info but now I may change gear sets due to information in an earlier post.
I ended up using the 13 spline main shaft as it appeared in better shape (cleaner). When installing the main and countershafts gear sets I seen that the stock r5 basket also has 13 splines. I also have two other baskets and inner hubs in a box of RD parts that I got. One basket uses the (90149-05147-00 SCREW, SPECL SHAPE) and the other uses (90159-06010-00 SCREW, WITH WASHER). So, i am guessing from the info I received, I may have a transmission/clutch from both an RD350 and 400.
Quote from: DesmoDrew on December 09, 2024, 08:54:24 PMIf it is a 350 6-speed, all the R5 clutch bits and countershaft sprocket will swap over. If it is a 400 6-speed, you will need a 400 (or Banshee) inner clutch hub and a 400 pressure plate and springs/bolts, as well as a switch to a 400 c/s sprocket. The R5 clutch and basket should be fine if you have a 350 6-speed and are sticking with the R5 clutch assy. However you may need a bit of 'three-card-monty' with the fiber and steel plates to get the correct pressure and friction if switching to a mix of later 350 or 400 bits with the R5 basket.
The 6-spline drive end (clutch side) is 400. The output shaft also has a 6-spline output c/s end.
yah you can mix and match all sorts of stuff. any of it is fine though, just use a 7 disc clutch and you'll be fine
Thanks for all the help and info!
Hello again, I completed the 6 speed swap. I changed the shift drum, forks and transmissions. I did figure out that the 6 speed shift drum is smaller and you also need to change the guide and retainer. Now that its all together it does not want to shift all the way into gear. I have been staring at OEM parts finders and from what I see is that I also need to change the shift lever 3 on the shift bracket. The shift brackets have the same part numbers 328-18128-00-00 however the "shift lever 3's are different: R5-278-18151-00-00 and RD: 328-18151-00-00. Am I correct? It would make sense as the shift drums are different sizes.
I also need to buy a complete clutch kit including friction plates and steel plates? I've read you should change to 1992 FZR1000 friction plates. Any recommendations on a clutch kit? Also with the FZR plates I am guessing that the rubber cushions are removed. Thanks again for the knowledge/help.
Im not sure, i always swapped everything over. (THE 2 TIMES IVE DONE IT, SOON TO BE A 3RD IN.. 30 YEARS?) As far as the clutch goes, yes, the rubber rings go away.
these are the frictions i used. https://www.ebay.com/itm/281062515144
Thanks again!
I have another question. Is it ok to run all the tach components minus the circlip, washer, gear, spacer and pin? Thus nothing would be driving the output to the tach. I do not see any reason as to why this would cause a problem. I do not plan on running a tachometer anyway. Just wanted to ask to make sure my assumptions are correct.
You can leave all the parts out; from the shaft to the cable drive. Then I use one of these. Caps off part #10.
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-tach-drive-block-off-cap.html
Thanks that what I was thinking, but was not sure, so I wanted to check with this encyclopedia of knowledge on this forum. I should have knew that as I deleted oil pumps on both my motors.
Thanks again, this is such an awesome forum!
You also need to swap out the piece the end of the shift shaft rides up on. It has two holes in it and bolts aroud the end of the drum, behind the clutch.
I can also sell R5 top end if you need.
Thanks, but I am going to try the eBay cylinders from the write up on this forum. I just picked up a set of RD heads that I am cleaning up and recoating.
Clutch question. I changed to an RD clutch. It has a 12 spine inner hub with backing plate on the inner hub instead of the R5 inner hub. From my understanding it should be a 7 plate clutch. 7 frictions and 7 steels but the pressure plate is not touching so i would need 8 frictions and 8 steel plates to complete the clutch stack. Is this right or did i use a rd400 basket instead of the 350 basket? Thanks
I asked this awhile ago too. My understanding is the 1974 RD350 has the preferred 7 plate clutch but 1973 does not. Not certain but I don't think 1975 does either. Longtime former Yamaha dealership mechanic told me the 1974 is the best of the 3 years and clutch was 1st reason given. YMMV
Quote from: RDnuTZ on January 07, 2025, 12:03:33 PMI asked this awhile ago too. My understanding is the 1974 RD350 has the preferred 7 plate clutch but 1973 does not. Not certain but I don't think 1975 does either. Longtime former Yamaha dealership mechanic told me the 1974 is the best of the 3 years and clutch was 1st reason given. YMMV
The clutch assembly was updated mid-year in 1973, so not all '73s got the 6-plate. And there should be no difference between a '74 and a '75 as they used the exact same parts.
Details in Tech Bulletin No 312:
Yamaha_Tech Bulletin_Clutch_DS7 R5 RD250 RD350_No 312_feb02-1973.jpg
thanks for clarifying and filling in the information gaps
Thanks for info and technical bulletin. I am assuming that the bulletin refers to the inner hub which would change your first plate to a friction instead of a steel plate as it has a backing plate on the inner hub.
R5 inner hub #2:
RD inner hub #3 with backing plate on hub:
Just an update. I screwed up and had the pressure plate in the wrong position. It needed rotated for some reason. Never had one do that before. I turned it and it went right on. Thanks for the info though.