anyone ever tried 1 of these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113179937764
I bought one a few years ago for my DS-7, haven't installed it yet, I'm a little leery.
nope
Me, neither...too scared
theyve been around a while. about a 50/50 chance they make it a year before going poof.
this topic is interesting to me as I've been out of the game so long I'll likely struggle just to get 1 of my project bikes running correctly with stock ignition. :bang: I have followed all the in-depth stuff you guys have been doing with the modern (and modified) ignitions- but it's way over my head :umm:
From this seller's description it seems there has been some tinkering and further development on these. Not making a case for these, just curious if it's BS or not. I actually have a mystery stator set up from a parts lot I got like 20 years ago, and thought it might be from a weed wacker or something but it had 2 pickups on it, so I didn't want to toss it... and if I can find it in my stash see if it matches up to this...
I'll stop taking up bandwidth after this cut & paste of the seller's description below :rolleyes:
1.DUTY CYCLE IS 35%,LOWER WORKING CURRENT,MORE LIFETIME.
2.WITH TIMING TEST LIGHT.
3.OVER CURRENT PROTECTOR INSIDE.
Black Box
Electronic ignition using a single magnet have the same duty cycle(95%) of most single magnet e-ignition on the market. The working current of the e-ignition is 2-3 times of the original bike, which causes the e-igniton and ignition coil to heat seriously and shortens the life of the e-ignition and ignition coil. At the same time, the long-term high current operation also shortens the battery life. The e-ignition was completely discontinued in December 2017.
Black Box(upgrade)
In May 2017, Tytronic first designed a dual magnet electronic ignition (red and black magnets), which achieved the same duty cycle as the original bike, completely solving the problem existing in the primary product.this is what we are selling in the market.
Upgrade 2.0(red box)
In upgrade version, timing LED light and current protection circuit are added to make installation more convenient for users. At the same time, current protection circuit can effectively solve the problem of easy damage to e-ignition caused by wiring error, unstable voltage of charging system, ignition coil damage, etc. The product starts on sale in January 2018.
Upgrade 3.0(green box)
The new e-ignition designed and produced by Tytronic in March 2021 uses computer program to control the advance of the e-ignition, replacing the mechanical advance system of the original bike and solving all the problems caused by the wear of the mechanical advance system. It is the most ideal e-ignition at present
I installed the HPI and I am never going back to points or a points replacement system. I rode my buds RD with a similar set-up as mine but he has points and the difference was very noticeable. He also switched over to spec 2 classics same as mine. Even after tuning the ignition at 1.9btdc his wouldn't accel as quickly as mine no matter what. The advance curve and getting rid of the heavy rotor helped immensely. He ordered an HPI. I think spending the money is probably worth it in the end to get something that has been proven out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP/RD350-canyon.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP)
not doubting you at all on HPI experience. Assume yours in pic is the non-stock looking set up with riser bars? Noticed both bikes seem to have same front tires, but not oriented same direction?
The Tytronic system got good reviews on the XS650 Forum I'm on so I bought one. Have not installed it yet as it's running great on points so far.
Does Tytronic system come with instructions, wiring/hook up diagrams, etc.?
I don't see where it tells you what the ignition curve is. And I wonder if it will let the motor run backwards. My old Dyna will definitely run backwards.
getting rid of the original points/condenser is on my list down the road. so is that HPI an alacart or is there a complete comprehensive kit ? is this one of the best ways to go? dang I have questions!
the hydronic has no curve the hpi def does. it's on their website. tbh unless you are very comfortable wiring, the hpi dies come in a kit, but it's not really plug and play. the knockoff dynasty that look like dynas are better quality than the hydronic by a mile. also the backwards running has to do with the dwell of the trigger. the vs unit has 3 magnets in row to stop it from starting in reverse. tbh, the vape is the best overall bang for the buck, but I also run hpis, and dynasty and a knockoff on the yl1
That is interesting. I tried an early version on a CB160 which is obviously twice the motor that a 2 stroke is... Had some issues with that and replaced it with a DYNA and that was perfect. It used the stock Honda auto advance mechanism.
I also built a couple of DYNA systems for GT750 Suzuki because I had a couple of modules lying around and they make a nice fat spark, but the motor starts backwards if I wasn't careful.
Then I built another DYNA S based system but using cheap chinesium DYNA clone modules and fr some reason, they made a fatter spark on the test jig.
With these later designed units, there is only one way to see if they included a 4 stroke type advance curve or a 2 stroke retard curve, and that's the fit one on the test jig and test it. If they used the same curve as the units they make for 4 stroke twins and 4's, that would be a huge problem.
If anyone has one or wants to order one, I can see it I can fit it on the test jig and look at what the curve is like.
Quote from: gargantua350 on December 18, 2024, 11:56:15 AMI installed the HPI and I am never going back to points or a points replacement system. I rode my buds RD with a similar set-up as mine but he has points and the difference was very noticeable. He also switched over to spec 2 classics same as mine. Even after tuning the ignition at 1.9btdc his wouldn't accel as quickly as mine no matter what. The advance curve and getting rid of the heavy rotor helped immensely. He ordered an HPI. I think spending the money is probably worth it in the end to get something that has been proven out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP/RD350-canyon.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP)
Those front tires are similar but upon a closer look they are definitely not the same.
regarding curves, you referring to the HPI i assume?
Considering the available technology and how cheap electronics have become across the board, seems to me accessory electronic ignitions are WAY overpriced.
A racer friend in Dutchland made his own Yamaha TD1250 ignition out of OTC chainsaw bits for almost free; any small-engine repair shop usually has buckets of these ignitions that have been salvaged and sell them for a few bucks if not free.
Included is a picture of his $50(in Euro's) race ignition - 10,000rpm all day and never misses a beat. The cost was engineering the rotor mount and backing plate.
(https://i.postimg.cc/y3YJy9HQ/td-ignition-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3YJy9HQ)
As I recall, his setup used a Husqvarna 2-cylinder chainsaw sparkler. There are many smaller ignitions that could be made to fit inside a cover.
Warren
i used to make them out of car ignitions, there's a million ways to do it. getting it to fit, correctly, is the issue. getting a charging system thats ok for the street is the other. just depends what your time is worth. for under 300 bucks, an hpi is a hell of a deal for a bolt on (mechanically) with an igniton curve. thats what went on to the harris race bike with the rotax motor, and i basically had an open checkbook for that.
For sure on a road race bike, a self generating system such as FEMSA, Motoplat, HPI, PVL etc are a no brainer. For the street where 12v is needed to run lights etc, something like a VAPE is ideal and anything that replaces 50 year old electrical components has to be an improvement.
For a drag bike, an RC 14.8v battery and DC-CDI is a great set up.
Funnily enough, for the street I prefer an internal rotor generating system with a DC-CDI programmable ignition and that's a different ball game.
Yeah it it not the same tires.
Quote from: STLMike on December 20, 2024, 03:22:50 PMQuote from: gargantua350 on December 18, 2024, 11:56:15 AMI installed the HPI and I am never going back to points or a points replacement system. I rode my buds RD with a similar set-up as mine but he has points and the difference was very noticeable. He also switched over to spec 2 classics same as mine. Even after tuning the ignition at 1.9btdc his wouldn't accel as quickly as mine no matter what. The advance curve and getting rid of the heavy rotor helped immensely. He ordered an HPI. I think spending the money is probably worth it in the end to get something that has been proven out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP/RD350-canyon.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP)
Those front tires are similar but upon a closer look they are definitely not the same.
Quote from: STLMike on December 20, 2024, 03:22:50 PMQuote from: gargantua350 on December 18, 2024, 11:56:15 AMI installed the HPI and I am never going back to points or a points replacement system. I rode my buds RD with a similar set-up as mine but he has points and the difference was very noticeable. He also switched over to spec 2 classics same as mine. Even after tuning the ignition at 1.9btdc his wouldn't accel as quickly as mine no matter what. The advance curve and getting rid of the heavy rotor helped immensely. He ordered an HPI. I think spending the money is probably worth it in the end to get something that has been proven out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP/RD350-canyon.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGmk1XMP)
Those front tires are similar but upon a closer look they are definitely not the same.
I was talking about the V shape in tread pattern. 1 bike has the V facing forward and 1 bike has the V oriented rearwards?