(https://i.postimg.cc/RFPwJ5KK/20250201-170649.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2MnHPZx)
Vitos crank and new seals resting comfortably in thier forever home. Cylinders in SC will be getting bored to 65MM and getting new Wossners fitted and a powevalve rebuild plus a coat of black paint courtesy of M in SC. :righteous: :righteous:
oh, I'm going pink powdercoat on them. :vroom:
Quote from: m in sc on February 03, 2025, 10:49:04 AMoh, I'm going pink powdercoat on them. :vroom:
solid choice
:celebrate: :celebrate:
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTz7gKTS/20250207-113401.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jTtzf6y)
My good friend Andy Fultz applying sealant to the case halves.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T1mzymKG/20250207-121029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PvX39CbF)
Assembled and torqued.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15mBVwnH/20250207-135016.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bd5kKGRD)
Top view
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYT9LCJt/20250207-135025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SnfXNjcG)
Back home safe and sound.
(https://i.postimg.cc/76S9Z2mh/20250307-133959.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YGqYXhcB)
Back in the frame.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NjLxrVpW/20250307-134011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SnF9BZ0r)
Only 1 snafu. The RH tie bar nutplate stripped when I started tightening it. I put a nut on top of it and all is well.
The kicker gear was a PITA until I figured out that you have to press in on the phenolic spacer when ops checking it like the side cover does or the shit just falls apart.
The cylinders are winging their way here from the House of Haase and are due to arrive on Tuesday with new Wossner pistons on a fresh bore and rebuilt power valve assemblies. Thanks Mark!!
(https://i.postimg.cc/7PV1tDRF/20250307-175131.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhX7fFcs)
Looking good. I just got my RZ engine out and on the bench after years of neglect. Looks like it just needs new pistons. The crank looks ok, looks like it was rebuilt sometime before I bought it. I'm just going to replace the outer bearings. Power valve was cruddy and stuck. I still have the stock carbs and never was able to get a slight rich spot as it passes through about 5000 rpm to go away. The rest of my bike needs a full refurbish too, forks, brakes, and a new shock.
(https://i.postimg.cc/C5vK2qKd/20250308-144754.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QC1YjLM)
Stator and rotor done and hooked up.The woodruff key fought me but I won.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wT8H62CH/Resized-1000018966.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Used my newly acquired Yambits inner clutch hub holder. Works like a champ. Apologies for out of sequence photo.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVXPPVQ8/20250308-144833.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCvFnmQF)
Clutch done. Cable lubed with dry slide and preliminary adjustment completed. Side cover water pipe installed. O-ring will be put on just before side cover installation.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nrLmMZjj/20250308-150623.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nj6rwy1p)
New Vitos intake disassembled to discover that the o-rings included in the box were not in fact installed in the intake. (I assumed they were spares)Not bashing Vitos thier products look to be top notch but no instructions?
Thanks 1976rd400c for the kind words. I went with a new Vitos crank because the big end of the rod seized due to a bad crank seal.
looking good timmy. :celebrate: wait till those hot pink cylinders show up.
:taz: :taz:
(https://i.postimg.cc/KYsKH9mS/20250310-154400.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cKw4KBKX)
Thermostat housing, water pipe and windowed clutch cover baked at 200 for 30 minutes in the shop oven. Then a quick acetone rinse, blow dry and tack cloth. 3 coats of Duplicolor Ceramic 500 degree Caliper paint and back in the oven at 170 for an hour.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YSjN0L97/20250310-155655.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mc2frTV3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bbf2mhCZ/20250310-171245.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwvW549B)
:bacon: great progress! If those cylinders show up any color BUT pink, I'm gonna be disappointed.
Thanks!
I got them but haven't unboxed them yet. I am in the middle of my 1st gout flare-up in 25 years despite daily meds so I can't use my left hand. I had some Wageu beef and that proved to be a mistake. Urgent care is in my future later today...
:popcorn2: :affirmation:
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYmRh7nQ/20250314-171028.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJz4rv20)
Today in the shop was FPP expansion chamber refurb day. I bead blasted the spigots and then wire wheeled them. In the shop oven for 30 minutes at 250, then shot some Rustolem 2000 degree black snd back in the oven for an hour at 250.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SxsDD5Vf/20250314-172113.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhBG45Bd)
While the spigots baked I cleaned up the pipes and scuffed them up with some 360 grade wet or dry tri mi, wiped them.down with acetone and tacked them off good. The packing was shot after 3 years of hard running and will be replaced.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHVN2F9w/20250316-175058.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9D069hwB)
Today was clutch cover prep day. All new seals, new Economy Cycle billet impeller and new bearing. Lexan window temp installed for photo.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9FmLG7b4/3c8a-59286ae9b0208.webp) (https://postimages.org/)
I love new tools! Per M in SC I need one of these and from what I can see there is no other way to properly torque the inaccesibble RZ350 cylinder nuts other than a crows foot as Mark indicated. $21.99 from good old Amazon Prime free shipping MotionPro 08-0134.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLsk3919/20250318-170226.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kDgvwh7)
Today was clutch cover install day complete with Allen head bolts from Yambits and the window from Seans RD an ebay vendor who manufacturers them in the UK. No leaks after 2 hours. 1 quart of Lucas 80/90 for leak check purposes and to slosh around on the clutch and gears. Kicker appears to operate normally as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzKxMQNr/20250319-163844.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62NksrFy)
Today was Wossner piston prep and install day.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 18, 2025, 11:36:21 AM(https://i.postimg.cc/9FmLG7b4/3c8a-59286ae9b0208.webp) (https://postimages.org/)
I love new tools! Per M in SC I need one of these and from what I can see there is no other way to properly torque the inaccesibble RZ350 cylinder nuts other than a crows foot as Mark indicated. $21.99 from good old Amazon Prime free shipping MotionPro 08-0134.
I saw those but looked at their users manual for it and didnt quite understand the conversion formula to use it?
M in SC correct me if I explain this wrong.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XqHSySCv/Resized-1000019194.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
T is the torque value in this case 18 ft lbs for RZ350 cylinder base nuts.
L is the dimension from the center of drive on the torque wrench where a socket goes or in this case the center of the adapter to the center
of the grip on your torque wrench.
you need to adjust the torque wrench setting to compensate for the extended moment arm which I think has to do with the increased leverage provided by the adapter.
A is the length of that extension.
So 18 x 14.5 =261 on the top line.
14.5+3 = 17.5 on the bottom line.
Divide 261 by 17.5 = corrected torque setting of 14.91 which I will round up to 15.
I used to be a Flight Engineer but I haven't done any math remotely like this in a long long time so please correct me if I am wrong.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 21, 2025, 02:02:08 AMT is the torque value in this case 18 ft lbs for RZ350 cylinder base nuts.
L is the dimension from the center of drive on the torque wrench where a socket goes or in this case the center of the adapter to the center
of the grip on your torque wrench.
you need to adjust the torque wrench setting to compensate for the extended moment arm which I think has to do with the increased leverage provided by the adapter.
A is the length of that extension.
So 18 x 14.5 =261 on the top line.
14.5+3 = 17.5 on the bottom line.
Divide 261 by 17.5 = corrected torque setting of 14.91 which I will round up to 15.
I used to be a Flight Engineer but I haven't done any math remotely like this in a long long time so please correct me if I am wrong.
In the last twelve months I have had need for one of these tools and almost purchased one. I had no idea a calculation needed to be made to use the tool correctly.
What was your reference for the formula for calculation? Does this come with the tool as instructions, have you sourced these instructions elsewhere, or has a mathematical background told you a calculation needs to be made?
Whatever the way, thanks to you and the forum for this gem of information. Great stuff! : thumbs:
the instructions come with the tool. you are increasing the length so you need to use a 'lower' indicated value.
below file is the instructions from motion pro. :afro:
I08-0134_2022_March_update.pdf
Quote from: m in sc on March 21, 2025, 06:12:24 AMthe instructions come with the tool. you are increasing the length so you need to use a 'lower' indicated value.
below file is the instructions from motion pro. :afro:
I08-0134_2022_March_update.pdf
And there it is. Thanks Mark!
Does the calculation work out as a general percentage, or is a new calculation needed for different torque settings?
Quote from: m in sc on March 21, 2025, 06:12:24 AMthe instructions come with the tool. you are increasing the length so you need to use a 'lower' indicated value.
below file is the instructions from motion pro. :afro:
I08-0134_2022_March_update.pdf
Yes, I read those but still dont quite understand the bottom line setting I need...math has never been my strong point.
you can use the adapter at 90 degrees from the arm and supposedly will need no conversion.
Quote from: m in sc on March 21, 2025, 12:36:52 PMyou can use the adapter at 90 degrees from the arm and supposedly will need no conversion.
Hmm, interesting...thanks. :like:
Here's how I did mine. Tightened the nuts a little at a time in the correct order. Then you can get a socket on one of the nuts on the back. Using a torque wrench, tightened it to 18 ft. lbs. Then put the 12mm box wrench on it and "felt" what 18 ft. lbs. feels like. Did the rest of them to the same "feel". :eek:
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMBjBxxs/20250321-161645.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsSJ1B5g)
Today the cylinders were installed and the Wicked ATV billet power valve coupler. Lubed the power valve cables, reinstalled the cable mechanism and hooked up the battery to verify neutral light and power valve operation. Then I started the Wicked ATV billet o-ring head install prep. I installed the thermostat and housing sealed with Permatex water pump gasket sealer and Permatex Anerobic on the cylinder base gaskets. Installed the Koso water temp sensor.Thanks M in SC for the phone consult.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KjYcgvVC/20250321-161311.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Kkdh6Fm5)
looking gooooood :toot:
Quote from: 1976RD400C on March 21, 2025, 03:17:22 PMHere's how I did mine. Tightened the nuts a little at a time in the correct order. Then you can get a socket on one of the nuts on the back. Using a torque wrench, tightened it to 18 ft. lbs. Then put the 12mm box wrench on it and "felt" what 18 ft. lbs. feels like. Did the rest of them to the same "feel". :eek:
That was my plan as well...great minds think alike. :thumbs:
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 22, 2025, 12:15:23 AM(https://i.postimg.cc/NMBjBxxs/20250321-161645.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsSJ1B5g)
Today the cylinders were installed and the Wicked ATV billet power valve coupler. Lubed the power valve cables, reinstalled the cable mechanism and hooked up the battery to verify neutral light and power valve operation. Then I started the Wicked ATV billet o-ring head install prep. I installed the thermostat and housing sealed with Permatex water pump gasket sealer and Permatex Anerobic on the cylinder base gaskets. Installed the Koso water temp sensor.Thanks M in SC for the phone consult.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KjYcgvVC/20250321-161311.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Kkdh6Fm5)
I sure like the looks of that fan you have mounted on there for peace of mind in traffic.
Having water cooled dirt bikes over the years, I know first hand what a difference a good fan makes in keeping a bike from boiling over. :thumbs:
R6 cooling fan wired direct to the battery with a switch on the LH frame rail under the tank. $50 used on Ebay. Switch was under $10. It cools it right down in traffic.
Very nice idea on that fan, may need to try that.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 22, 2025, 04:53:15 PMR6 cooling fan wired direct to the battery with a switch on the LH frame rail under the tank. $50 used on Ebay. Switch was under $10. It cools it right down in traffic.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 22, 2025, 04:53:15 PMR6 cooling fan wired direct to the battery with a switch on the LH frame rail under the tank. $50 used on Ebay. Switch was under $10. It cools it right down in traffic.
I wired my fan through a manual switch and a temp controlled switch that fits in between the rad fins so that it turns on and off automatically.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bsb8SfbY/Screenshot-2025-03-22-at-19-48-34-2-Pin-Electric-Radiator-Fan-Push-Probe-Temperature-Thermostat-Swit.png) (https://postimg.cc/bsb8SfbY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yd0pCYgM/20250322-143255.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1n5rpSKB)
Big shout out to my good friend Frank B who showed up this morning and we got after it. The Wicked ATV billet head went on without a hitch snd we torqued it to the prescribed 21 foot pounds in two increments.
Next up was the Vitos billet intake. We prepped the reed cages and applied Permatex anerobic sealant to the gaskets and rubber intakes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FRKbDrbb/20250322-143322.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Ff2JKQB1)
We test fit the carbs only to discover the set back from the intake made the Canadian 29L cable too short and the cable adjusters were hitting the frame. Luckily I had the throttle cables from Economy Cycle made for aftermarket carbs and some straight cable adjusters from Niche Cycle. The supplied oil pump cable was too long so we took the oil pump cable off the 29L cable set and swapped it in and were able to rig the oil pump cable correctly. The setback and cable change required a cable re-route as shown down the right side and middle of the frame. We temp fitted the gas tank to ensure no clearance issues and all is well. Next we put the chamber spigots on the new exhaust stud kit from Yambits. The included self locking nuts are a nice touch. Then it was on to the radiator install. I filled the system with coolant and had a seep from the quick drain impeller cover and the Koso temp sensor. I drained some coolant and Teflon taped the sensor, retourqed the sensor and the drain plug, kicked the motor over a few times to distribute the coolant and called it a day. Thanks again Frank B!
Tomorrow's plan is painting the chambers and cleaning up all the tools.
Paint day in the outdoor paint booth behind the shop. Power valve covers stripped, centers polished, masked, bead blasted, blown clean, wiped down with acetone and painted with 500 degree Duplicolor Ceramic caliper paint.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hst6YwWt/20250323-150613.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnnV46Zw)
Attempted to paint FPP Chambers with Duplicolor 2000 degree paint like the spigots but it quickly became evident that the remaining Rustolem 1200 degree BBQ black would have to be stripped as the two did not play well together. So I wiped the light coat off with tack cloth soaked in acetone then scuffed that chamber with 360 grit wet or dry tri mi followed by another acetone wipe and tacked it off.
(https://i.postimg.cc/28TxRCTc/20250323-154515.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCjmqbyB)
Applied 3 coats of Rustolem 1200 degree BBQ black and all is well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJPhL7NL/20250323-165613.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y4b0Jdct)
Installed new oil lines as the existing lines no longer reach due to the set back of the Vitos intake. Then I synced the carbs and installed the chain.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SRYp0ZbV/20250323-171127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Cn02ks1f)
Test fitted this Wicked ATV aluminum oil pump cover a gift from my dear friend Evans Ward. Thanks Evans. It is far superior to the factory plastic cover. I am going to bead blast it and either polish or clear coat it to match the intake as suggested by M in SC.
Hopefully in a few more days I will get to hear it run.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y26N8Bs9/20250325-145836.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjKzN3qF)
Chambers on. Spigots sealed with high temp sealant.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJqyVVTW/20250325-172424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47SjDypx)
Repacked and cans reinstalled. The plan is initial fire up tomorrow on premix to verify oil pump operation and 1st heat cycle.
The White RZ Lives!!! :olaf: :olaf:
Thanks to M in SC, Frank B and all the rest who helped make it possible...
https://youtube.com/shorts/vujwOywn2qg?si=aGqkWREy3Cz5eHe_
Congrats! :clap: I bet that feels good. Getting close to being able to rip down the road
Thanks!
Another heat cycle after head bolt retourqe and then a test ride.
get it tim! no drips thrn, awesome
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 25, 2025, 10:10:32 PM(https://i.postimg.cc/Y26N8Bs9/20250325-145836.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjKzN3qF)
Chambers on. Spigots sealed with high temp sealant.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJqyVVTW/20250325-172424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47SjDypx)
Repacked and cans reinstalled. The plan is initial fire up tomorrow on premix to verify oil pump operation and 1st heat cycle.
going to let anyone ride it this year :)
Of course I will.
I put 53 miles on the white RZ. Tuning in progress due to the increased length of the intake tract from the Vitos billet intake. It was quite rich off idle to 1/4 throttle. Started at 1.0 turns out on the airscrews as it was set up before and ended at 1.75 turns out and got it much better. Above 1/4 throttle it is perfect. I made several runs and varied throttle position, loaded the motor briefly and did not exceed 7000 RPMs. Overall I am quite pleased with the performance. Currently running 40 pilots. I am going to try a set of 37.5s and see if I can get it closer. Also the Wicked ATV billet head has resulted in lower operating temperatures. It was unseasonably warm here yesterday in the low 80s and the maximum temperature I saw was 166 in the mountains.
:dance: :nanahit:
Put in a set of 37.5 pilots and all the driveabilty went away. Lean surging. Put the 40s back in and it is like it was yesterday, pretty close. Gonna richen the needle one clip one position and see if
Can get closer. Put 20 more miles on today.
Thanks to M in SC for the link to these soft hose stainless hose clamps that arrived today from McMaster Carr. No doubt they will lengthen the life of the soft rubber Vitos intakes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DwMXjC3F/20250401-171635.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gx3jrH0B)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCrbYcd4/20250401-172547.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Ny40kGm6)
A very smart guy I know M in SC once told me: 90% of jetting problems are electrical. I had been having an intermittent low speed stumble and occasional backfire on a cold start which I attributed to a fuel mixture problem.
Today after moving the needle clip to the middle from one lean I feared I wasn't going to make it back home. I have been running with the RH side panel body work removed so I could easily remove the RH Uni Pod filter to gain access to the LH carb pilot airscrew along the road without having to take the seat off. After an adjustment the bike lurched and popped and missed and lost power on take off only to run fine after 3000 RPMs. I took it home and back on the lift it went. Took the gas tank off and started checking connections. When I pulled on the main feed wire to the harness(the positive battery lead) it separated very easily.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhZCzBwY/20250401-164410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njNfvNRK)
It was also quite green with corrosion. I cut both ends of the bullet connector off and cut the wire back until I got good shiny copper. The out came my vintage connections wiring kit courtesy of John at Economy Cycle and replaced the connectors and rubber sleeve.
Put it all back together and did another tuning run. Bike ran perfect and the jetting is very close. Now at 360 mains, 40 pilots, needles in the middle clip and airscrews at 1.75 turns out. My tentative theory is that the missing side cover changed the air flow enough that it aggravated an already bad connection. The rebuild now has just over 100 miles on it and I am quite pleased with the performance. Thank to everyone who made it possible.
:olaf: and there it is! :metal: :vroom: :toot:
:clap: :cheerleader:
:whoop: :vroom:
(https://i.postimg.cc/zvzNBFRV/20250403-172102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hz56ZxsB)
Now that it is getting proper voltage it was rich on the transition at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. So I moved the needle back to 1 lean and it runs really good. 130 miles on the rebuild. Sorted for now. On to Gap Prep on the Orange RD350B.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9M8bfLLb/20250408-165903.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/phjzGJb5)
A big shout out to my dear friend Evans Ward who so generously
gave me this WICKED ATV billet oil pump cover. Bead blasted and shot with clear and didn't like the contrast so Duplicolor Ceramic caliper paint it is. Baked at 200 in my shop oven before and after