I have rolled the RD200 from the shed to prepare her to offer her for sale.
When I bought it in 2016 it had fork gators, which are obviously not original. They looked fine, but while going over it I realized they are torn. That sent me down the path of pulling the forks off today to examine the tubes, seals, etc.
There is some pitting on the tubes, so my questions are:
- Is there a way to clean up minor pitting? None of it is in the seal travel area.
- Would you source new gators to cover up the pitting? Not to hide from a buyer, but for asthetics?
- I can source new seals and dust covers. There are no dust covers now. You think I'm better off with original dust covers or gators?
- Can I pull the seals without full disassembly of the forks? The forks are now off the bike but internals are intact. I see a retaining ring which I'm pretty sure I can get off to pull the seals.
Opinions welcomed!
Thanks
Ed
(https://i.ibb.co/whwdCxpj/5-B69-A23-A-886-D-4010-81-B7-25-FCC089823-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8gdm2SPt)
(https://i.ibb.co/nsFn57hs/18-A3-B79-F-0-FEE-4-BFE-9-FD0-23-AA1-E6-F8-AB5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VWsQPgXW)
(https://i.ibb.co/S4YVfHZ6/2732-D11-D-A750-45-A4-9-D5-C-77937-B98-D56-D.jpg)
(https://ibb.co/bMwNbYG6)
not really. thats into the chrome. :huh:
Aside from the chrome pitting, personally I would lose the gaiters and go with dust covers per original 1976. By the way if you're interested in a sale as-is, please send me a PM to discuss.
agreed gators def need to go.
if the forks werent leaking, just turn the pitted side around back... :whistle:
If they're mine, I am working through a few grades of steel wool, then polishing. You can't repair the damaged chrome, but you can make them significantly better and you'll still be removing the rust and all of the texture. Think of it as preservation. They'll be plenty pretty for a daily rider and ensure a better offer price on sale.
I have about the same problem ( pitted tubes) . I don't think mine are going to clean up that good, and right seal is leaking now that I have it moving under own power. I saw where during a rebuild ( youtube) that theirs were turned down in a lath. wonder how much you can get by with? from what I see new tubes are pricey.
In my case I tried some steel wool. From some scratches, I could see that a PO tried also. I have heard of the lathe thing when I was building my R5. I was fortunate to find NOS tubes for it.
I haven't found any RD200 tubes via a part number search.
Like Mark suggested, I'll just reassemble with the worst sides 'in'.
New 350 and 400 fork tubes seem reasonable. $150-$200 on Ebay.
I fought this on the tzr thru 4 sets of fork seals.
Correction. Franks DOES list 76 RD200 on his site...
that might be the only feasible option. I've dried the jb weld in the pits, silver solder, etc. Just didn't work. I mean, best of luck w that but I think it's franks time
are you guys using the term "pits" generically to describe both raised up rust blisters in the hard chrome and also little craters/scratches/dings in the tubes? I've had some success treating both using different techniques.
In my case I can barely feel it, mostly with my fingernail. Almost just a cosmetic problem. The area doesn't cross the seal...
(https://i.ibb.co/gbHGTJfx/image.jpg)
if its not on contact w the seal, hit it with silver paint pen, wipe it down and turn em to the back.
think I will try the ( very fine , 0004 ) steel wool and turn them backwards with new seals and covers for now. thanks for the tip on that. suspension is next on my check list any how. :thumbs:
I found Emory Cloth strips works better for those than steel wool. You can get rolls of ~1" Emory in different grits and cut off like 6" sections and rub/pull back and forth around the fork tube to get the high spots down and lighten the black color. Sometimes a little oil helps too. Then hit with carb or brake parts cleaner. Rinse and repeat until smooth as you want them. Then I hit with "Chrome" or Aluminum/Silver color Rust encapsulating spray paint. I Never thought of Mark's great idea of using the paint pen, but will have to try it :thumbs:
Quote from: RDnuTZ on February 16, 2025, 09:56:53 AMfound Emory Cloth strips works better for those than steel wool. You can get rolls of ~1" Emory in different grits and cut off like 6" sections and rub/pull back and forth around the fork tube to get the high spots down and lighten the black color. Sometimes a little oil helps too. Then hit with carb or brake parts cleaner. Rinse
I know of a mechanic who used this as standard procedure whenever replacing fork seals.