:vroom: :celebrate: vintage Torque Engineering.
I just paid for them and I'm very pleased;I want to get them professionally restored including the original built-in silencers. Torque Engineering are not high rpm powerband like the Bassani,etc.,but meant to pump-up midrange on-up to about 9-9.5K,for high performance street.
Do you know anyone who specializes in restoring vintage 2-stroke exhausts ?
I mainly just want the silencers restored to Quiet-mode,plus All the dents hammered-out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0DMSWvS/20250511-233428.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0DMSWvS)
Let us know if you find anybody for repairs. I put out feelers a couple months ago and didn't find any confirmed people still doing this work. Got a couple links with "you might try this guy" but not like it used to be with multiple busy shops across the country.
Quote from: RDnuTZ on May 12, 2025, 10:20:51 AMLet us know if you find anybody for repairs. I put out feelers a couple months ago and didn't find any confirmed people still doing this work. Got a couple links with "you might try this guy" but not like it used to be with multiple busy shops across the country.
Yeah, I bet not many :dead: out there;old timers like me.
I'll be certainly looking for leads;I think it's a special skill.
it's just metal work. they need to be tanked cleaned, and the silencer doesn't really come out. the endcap does. the dents can be pulled but some dents are intentionally there for clearance on the bottom side. did you get the headpipes as well?
Quote from: m in sc on May 12, 2025, 11:25:22 AMit's just metal work. they need to be tanked cleaned, and the silencer doesn't really come out. the endcap does. the dents can be pulled but some dents are intentionally there for clearance on the bottom side. did you get the headpipes as well?
I had a set of them back in 87' on my RD350 and rode across the USA from CT. to W. AZ. on my grossly over-loaded bike;they worked excellent and made the bike Strong.
The design(from what I know)just clamps to the stock headpipes..
Mark, do you know of someone who will work on these?
An expert who knows just what to do to remove the dents that shouldn't be there,and as you say,about having them tanked;someone put some weld(a mess)on a couple places back on the silencer and I want them restored to their proper state so I can service them when needed.
I just ordered them last night,and they're coming from Clawson,Mi.
I'm just waiting on the delivery, And finding someone w/ the proper skill to make 'em nice again.
(https://i.postimg.cc/N9VfkfsV/20250512-090432.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9VfkfsV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BjsZgz3q/20250512-090752.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjsZgz3q)
no I do my own work. I'll be honest I've never seen a set of chrome ones, that's interesting.
Clawson ha? I think that's the same guy I got a set of pipes for another member from. Possibly...
Hmmm, I've only seen those pipes a few times. Looks like the neat thing about those is you get to retain the stock foot pegs/bracket and possibly the centerstand too? If you're not looking for weight loss and enjoy the original cruising/riding position then that is perfect. Really not many options for performance pipes in that regard.
Quote from: m in sc on May 12, 2025, 12:12:52 PMno I do my own work. I'll be honest I've never seen a set of chrome ones, that's interesting.
Yeah, I like the chrome,but after the work.. I wouldn't be able to afford to get them re-chromed,unless I knew of a place(Mexico?)that would do it for small $.
The ones I had in 87' were painted black from the factory.
I got them from a place in Hamden,CT. where a homeowner discarded a complete R5c to his curb :help: and I came along and got the chambers(nice condition)and the heads.
Quote from: Striker1423 on May 12, 2025, 12:30:11 PMClawson ha? I think that's the same guy I got a set of pipes for another member from. Possibly...
The ebay name is 'Mikesclassyperformance'
Quote from: RDryan on May 12, 2025, 12:40:23 PMHmmm, I've only seen those pipes a few times. Looks like the neat thing about those is you get to retain the stock foot pegs/bracket and possibly the centerstand too? If you're not looking for weight loss and enjoy the original cruising/riding position then that is perfect. Really not many options for performance pipes in that regard.
Yes,the centerstand and stock footpegs.
These are off to the sides,which keeps them out of harms way,rather than under the engine;a good set for more performance with stock position,although the stock headpipes need to be used and hopefully the clamps will be tight.
Does Dave Moore Racing still exist ??
I think he used to/does? Hi-end RZ350 and Banshee engine building;from what I understand,doing pipe repair is a dirty job and a pain to most professionals.
I was just speaking with a powersports machinist who told me that lots of motocross 2-stroke guys who do vintage motocross racing may know of a place;they get their pipes bashed and need to get them popped back out again.
I just gotta keep looking/asking to find who will do that.
I asked on my MX sites 1st as there used to be about 3 guys/shops including Nevada. They were always booked weeks out in advance and would stop taking orders to catch up. Good work and reasonable $. They are no longer around and no others recommended in the off-road world. Supposedly there's 1 in PNW and 1 back East but could not establish contact with them through internet searches.
Quote from: RDnuTZ on May 12, 2025, 10:31:18 PMI asked on my MX sites 1st as there used to be about 3 guys/shops including Nevada. They were always booked weeks out in advance and would stop taking orders to catch up. Good work and reasonable $. They are no longer around and no others recommended in the off-road world. Supposedly there's 1 in PNW and 1 back East but could not establish contact with them through internet searches.
I appreciate your search;I'm still striking-out..
It looks like they bugger welded the tips back on. The tips should be held on by a stud that goes through the center. The studs have a tendency to twist off when you try to remove the nut holding on the tip.
Quote from: klaird on May 13, 2025, 09:02:33 PMIt looks like they bugger welded the tips back on. The tips should be held on by a stud that goes through the center. The studs have a tendency to twist off when you try to remove the nut holding on the tip.
Yes,I see that welding mess.
I'll need a person to clean that all up and reattach the end-tips so they can be removed at intervals to clean and re-pack them,along with doing what Mark said about hot-tanking them to clean them all out nice.
I also want that person to cut them open vertically along a welded seam,go in there and pop-out all the different dents:give them the 'full treatment'.
I'll get them coated w/ a durable product when I'm all done
I put a pair(from an R5c which was discarded during Spring clean-up in Hamden,CT.)on my 75' RD350B back in 1987' which were very gently used;I rode w/ an overloaded bike across the USA 2750mi. and love the Torquey response they gave my 350.
Now I'm hooked on this brand for an RD street bike.
Quote from: grcamna3 on May 12, 2025, 11:37:30 PMQuote from: RDnuTZ on May 12, 2025, 10:31:18 PMI asked on my MX sites 1st as there used to be about 3 guys/shops including Nevada. They were always booked weeks out in advance and would stop taking orders to catch up. Good work and reasonable $. They are no longer around and no others recommended in the off-road world. Supposedly there's 1 in PNW and 1 back East but could not establish contact with them through internet searches.
I appreciate your search;I'm still striking-out..
it was many months ago when I inquired and struck out...
Quote from: grcamna3 on May 14, 2025, 12:06:52 AMYes,I see that welding mess.
I'll need a person to clean that all up and reattach the end-tips so they can be removed at intervals to clean and re-pack them,along with doing what Mark said about hot-tanking them to clean them all out nice.
I also want that person to cut them open vertically along a welded seam,go in there and pop-out all the different dents:give them the 'full treatment'.
I'll get them coated w/ a durable product when I'm all done
I put a pair(from an R5c which was discarded during Spring clean-up in Hamden,CT.)on my 75' RD350B back in 1987' which were very gently used;I rode w/ an overloaded bike across the USA 2750mi. and love the Torquey response they gave my 350.
Now I'm hooked on this brand for an RD street bike.
I think you are going to be really frustrated and ultimately disappointed in this quest. Cone pipes are not repaired the way you envision. Typically they must be cut apart at existing seams of individual sections and pounded out (or replaced with new similar rolled welded seam section) and welded back in place on the pipe.
Hydroformed stamped pipes are made in 2 halves and welded together lengthwise. FPPs are example of this vs. how your TE are made. These pipes typically are repaired using air pressure and heat to pop out dents. Sometimes people drill a hole opposite the dent, insert a rod and heat the dent while applying pressure on the rod to push out dent from inside. Another method is welding on a rod directly on the dent and using heat and slide hammer to pull the dent from outside.
That's just a basic overview of methods I know of and/or tried over the years. Not meant to be all-inclusive and/or 100% correct explanations of every technique or method used today. You can imagine the time and work all this takes and it won't be cheap if you find someone to do repairs for you. I'm kind of resigned to the fact I will have to repair my dented pipes myself when I get around to it someday :rolleyes:
If you are able to weld and perform basic metal work yourself that will likely be most direct route to fix your pipes IMO.
they can be cutapart and repaired, but it's a long messy progress. I've done it. the torque pipes are thick too, so a hammer and dolley, sandbag and some forming skills are required. me? I'd clean em up as best as possible, get them cooked out and cleaned, and go from there. it's going to be stupid expensive to pay somebody to do it right. like, about what a set of new Lomas or specii pipes will cost. I envision about 10-15 hrs time at 150 ish an hour will get silly fast. or, buy a welder and learn how to do it. this of course doesn't include rechroming, if you want to go that way. I'm not trying to discourage, just been there. I spent a ridiculous amount of time on a set of fpps about a year ago doing it. mostly can repair. I like TE pipes , I've had them. but just depends. look for local fabricators in general. 0.02
Quote from: m in sc on May 14, 2025, 10:44:18 AMthey can be cutapart and repaired, but it's a long messy progress. I've done it. the torque pipes are thick too, so a hammer and dolley, sandbag and some forming skills are required. me? I'd clean em up as best as possible, get them cooked out and cleaned, and go from there. it's going to be stupid expensive to pay somebody to do it right. like, about what a set of new Lomas or specii pipes will cost. I envision about 10-15 hrs time at 150 ish an hour will get silly fast. or, buy a welder and learn how to do it. this of course doesn't include rechroming, if you want to go that way. I'm not trying to discourage, just been there. I spent a ridiculous amount of time on a set of fpps about a year ago doing it. mostly can repair. I like TE pipes , I've had them. but just depends. look for local fabricators in general. 0.02
I understand what you're telling me Mark.
Well, 'in for a penny:in for a pound'.. which is to say I'm committed to do this project;I'm looking for the right person to let them do the job;possibly someone who's retired(and still alive :smiley: )and had done it plenty before.
I may be able to convince them to do this work.
I'll keep searching.
not trying to discourage you, but anyone you find is probably going to want to do it the way they know best through years of experience and might not agree with your special requirements on how you want it done :twocents:
hey, I get it. I've spent a lot on a bike that was worth next to nothing and don't regret it. reach out to chopper, and off road shops. you're going to find your guy 'outside' the normal channels I think. good luck. Just be prepared to pay.
Quote from: m in sc on May 14, 2025, 02:51:43 PMhey, I get it. I've spent a lot on a bike that was worth next to nothing and don't regret it. reach out to chopper, and off road shops. you're going to find your guy 'outside' the normal channels I think. good luck. Just be prepared to pay.
Yes,I'm in.
I'll keep looking for guys who do vintage off-road dirt bike restorations. :like:
I recently repaired a set of Jemco pipes and that included a lot of hammer and dolly time and in the end I had to replace about half the cones. I still have a set Bassani pipes that I don't want to even think about. To be honest, repairing pipes is more trouble that it's worth. The exception is MX pipes which they plug, pressurize and add heat until the air pushes the dent out. I am not trying that any time soon either.
The Jemco's took me months because they were so frustrating to work on. My hat is off to anyone doing that professionally.
Quote from: teazer on May 14, 2025, 05:28:49 PMI recently repaired a set of Jemco pipes and that included a lot of hammer and dolly time and in the end I had to replace about half the cones. I still have a set Bassani pipes that I don't want to even think about. To be honest, repairing pipes is more trouble that it's worth. The exception is MX pipes which they plug, pressurize and add heat until the air pushes the dent out. I am not trying that any time soon either.
The Jemco's took me months because they were so frustrating to work on. My hat is off to anyone doing that professionally.
I imagine the toughest thing will be to find someone who will do it nice.
I've seen dents in pipes removed with air pressure and heat. Requires some way of really sealing up both ends.
I'd like to find some junk ass pipes to try this on in fact.
I live in a 2nd floor apartment w/ no access to a shop;so far I haven't learned much about welding and heating metals.
I imagine it's a type of 'art' to do this.
Quote from: grcamna3 on May 15, 2025, 02:32:14 AMI live in a 2nd floor apartment w/ no access to a shop;so far I haven't learned much about welding and heating metals.
I imagine it's a type of 'art' to do this.
It's really just basic metal working skills. Have you considered taking a welding class? Like adult school or ROP offered after hours at Community Colleges? I started with small engine repair and woodworking classes in Jr. High School 1971. Then progressed to metal shop, advanced metal shops and eventually into auto shops in high school 1973-76. Of course, I had a natural curiosity on mechanical things since I was a toddler that drew me into this stuff. The point is you need to develop a basic understanding of "how to" bend, cut, form, heat, attach metals and practice until you are comfortable with it. :burnout:
Quote from: STLMike on May 14, 2025, 11:47:30 PMI've seen dents in pipes removed with air pressure and heat. Requires some way of really sealing up both ends.
I'd like to find some junk ass pipes to try this on in fact.
Please very careful and use proper safety equipment if you experiment with this. The most common method involves expandable freeze plugs on both ends - with a Schraeder valve on 1 end to add air pressure. There's lots of carbon and combustible junk in pipes that easily catches fire and produces tons of toxic smoke even if you are just heating or welding with open ends using a torch. This works best on thin metal pipes, but can burst open seams if you're not careful...
Quote from: RDnuTZ on May 15, 2025, 10:31:10 AMQuote from: STLMike on May 14, 2025, 11:47:30 PMI've seen dents in pipes removed with air pressure and heat. Requires some way of really sealing up both ends.
I'd like to find some junk ass pipes to try this on in fact.
Please very careful and use proper safety equipment if you experiment with this. The most common method involves expandable freeze plugs on both ends - with a Schraeder valve on 1 end to add air pressure. There's lots of carbon and combustible junk in pipes that easily catches fire and produces tons of toxic smoke even if you are just heating or welding with open ends using a torch. This works best on thin metal pipes, but can burst open seams if you're not careful...
I'm considering taking them to a helpful welder in the area(who may have never done exhaust/chambers before)and ask his advice,see if this man will consider taking them on as a side-project..
I would like to have them vertically cut open at the largest(chambers)middle seams.. (and 'clocked' & marked w/ reference numbers & marks)to begin with,plus I'll use my angle grinder to remove lots of that rusty/weld stuff at the rear silencers and remove the end-caps.
I could then take the index-marked parts somewhere? to get them boiled-out(I don't care about chrome plating,at this point)and as clean inside as possible,then give them to the welder and ask what he thinks for straightening the dents.. Maybe it's possible to use some type of impact-style tool which vibrates left to right to persuade those dent to smooth-outward when heated in key spots..
I am sure some may disagree with this process but I cleaned my TE pipes with a torch and air compressor. Start at the front and heat the pipe until it starts smoking then add air from the compressor (a leaf blower or the exhaust of a shop vac would probably work too). Once you have the the carbon inside burning the outside of the pipe will glow and show the flame front moving down the pipe. It will smoke A LOT as all of the crud gets burned out of the pipe. Once the flame burns out the left over ash will just fall out. The only draw back is that its unbelievable on how much smoke it creates, so if you have fussy neighbors it might not be an option.
:bacon: :boom: :omg: :vroom:
Quote from: klaird on May 16, 2025, 08:17:12 AMI am sure some may disagree with this process but I cleaned my TE pipes with a torch and air compressor. Start at the front and heat the pipe until it starts smoking then add air from the compressor (a leaf blower or the exhaust of a shop vac would probably work too). Once you have the the carbon inside burning the outside of the pipe will glow and show the flame front moving down the pipe. It will smoke A LOT as all of the crud gets burned out of the pipe. Once the flame burns out the left over ash will just fall out. The only draw back is that its unbelievable on how much smoke it creates, so if you have fussy neighbors it might not be an option.
Lol :clint: I would like to do that:start a big fire and toss 'em in until they top smoking :haw:
Especially with these neighbors I've got here;I'm sure they'd call the manager.
A big part of me says: Build a fire pit !!! :lol:
You really need to add the air to get a good burn going :whistle: , it sort of sounds like the roar of a jet engine once get a good flame front going inside.
I've lost eyebrow doing that shit. Just saying. MSR was there, prob 20? yrs ago
When I cleaned the Spec II's I have, I plugged an end, poured diesel and carb cleaner in them and shook them periodically throughout a week. Came out pretty good.
I also did my part for recycling. I used the solution that came out of the pipes to burn a stump out in my back yard.
Quote from: STLMike on May 16, 2025, 11:18:04 PMWhen I cleaned the Spec II's I have, I plugged an end, poured diesel and carb cleaner in them and shook them periodically throughout a week. Came out pretty good.
I also did my part for recycling. I used the solution that came out of the pipes to burn a stump out in my back yard.
Did you use a type of rubber plugs to seal the front inlets,then fill from the outlet side? also did some of it evaporate and then you had to add more from the top?
Quote from: m in sc on May 14, 2025, 02:51:43 PMhey, I get it. I've spent a lot on a bike that was worth next to nothing and don't regret it. reach out to chopper, and off road shops. you're going to find your guy 'outside' the normal channels I think. good luck. Just be prepared to pay.
Mark, I want to pull the end-caps off the silencers,then do some type of soak? that will wash the carbon and oil out;get myself a tall Kitchen trash can and stick them into it with a strong solvent.
I have no problem causing damage to the chrome plating when they get repaired;these are heavy steel and it will take some heat to bend them back.
I want to get them clean,then the person whom I bring them to get them straightened won't get too stressed by all the smoke..
I hope I can find a person local who might 'take them on'.
I can get them re-coated after all the work is complete.
the go to is caustic soda to clean thrm but it's nasty stuff
Quote from: m in sc on May 22, 2025, 02:08:14 PMthe go to is caustic soda to clean thrm but it's nasty stuff
Caustic Soda.. what brand and where can I get it;Home Depot or Lowes ?
Does it gas-out and smell ?
Do you think it will do the job overnight?
I hope it can be rinsed out with a garden hose.
you can easily find relevant info on these home remedy chemicals with internet searches :thumbs: Material Safety Data Sheets are good sources.
Quote from: RDnuTZ on May 22, 2025, 03:03:29 PMyou can easily find relevant info on these home remedy chemicals with internet searches :thumbs: Material Safety Data Sheets are good sources.
Yes,I have been getting some general information w/ Google searches.
I want to find a tall,round container just big enough to immerse both pipes,then pour a product in,while keeping close eye on it's progress.
Quote from: grcamna3 on May 22, 2025, 03:47:43 PMQuote from: RDnuTZ on May 22, 2025, 03:03:29 PMyou can easily find relevant info on these home remedy chemicals with internet searches :thumbs: Material Safety Data Sheets are good sources.
Yes,I have been getting some general information w/ Google searches.
I want to find a tall,round container just big enough to immerse both pipes,then pour a product in,while keeping close eye on it's progress.
Don't get that shit on you. Caustic soda is heated lye and water basically. It will dissolve your skin if you play around with it.
Quote from: Striker1423 on May 22, 2025, 10:53:10 PMQuote from: grcamna3 on May 22, 2025, 03:47:43 PMQuote from: RDnuTZ on May 22, 2025, 03:03:29 PMyou can easily find relevant info on these home remedy chemicals with internet searches :thumbs: Material Safety Data Sheets are good sources.
Yes,I have been getting some general information w/ Google searches.
I want to find a tall,round container just big enough to immerse both pipes,then pour a product in,while keeping close eye on it's progress.
Don't get that shit on you. Caustic soda is heated lye and water basically. It will dissolve your skin if you play around with it.
I'll be careful
(https://i.postimg.cc/FkcRY45n/20250522-152046.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkcRY45n)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FYxYbNfM/20250522-152014.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FYxYbNfM)
Quote from: grcamna3 on May 22, 2025, 11:27:21 PMQuote from: Striker1423 on May 22, 2025, 10:53:10 PMQuote from: grcamna3 on May 22, 2025, 03:47:43 PMQuote from: RDnuTZ on May 22, 2025, 03:03:29 PMyou can easily find relevant info on these home remedy chemicals with internet searches :thumbs: Material Safety Data Sheets are good sources.
Yes,I have been getting some general information w/ Google searches.
I want to find a tall,round container just big enough to immerse both pipes,then pour a product in,while keeping close eye on it's progress.
Don't get that shit on you. Caustic soda is heated lye and water basically. It will dissolve your skin if you play around with it.
I'll be careful
And when you're done you can use it to dispose of the body. :whistle:
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 23, 2025, 12:57:26 PMQuote from: grcamna3 on May 22, 2025, 11:27:21 PMQuote from: Striker1423 on May 22, 2025, 10:53:10 PMQuote from: grcamna3 on May 22, 2025, 03:47:43 PMQuote from: RDnuTZ on May 22, 2025, 03:03:29 PMyou can easily find relevant info on these home remedy chemicals with internet searches :thumbs: Material Safety Data Sheets are good sources.
Yes,I have been getting some general information w/ Google searches.
I want to find a tall,round container just big enough to immerse both pipes,then pour a product in,while keeping close eye on it's progress.
Don't get that shit on you. Caustic soda is heated lye and water basically. It will dissolve your skin if you play around with it.
I'll be careful
And when you're done you can use it to dispose of the body. :whistle:
Wow, the stuff must be Way strong.
it's nasty. I'd strongly recommend talking to a fabrication shop though . what you're wanting done isn't exactly motorcycle specific. more industrial reconditioning, I'm serious.
Quote from: m in sc on May 23, 2025, 03:11:09 PMit's nasty. I'd strongly recommend talking to a fabrication shop though . what you're wanting done isn't exactly motorcycle specific. more industrial reconditioning, I'm serious.
How do you mean ?
You know,the more I look at it,I would probably be best to bring it to a person who builds chambers from scratch.
I imagine they will have to replace a couple sections w/ fresh,round steel parts;they are badly pushed-in and rippled.
Who builds custom chambers ?
agree with your conclusion. Now actually go FIND a person to talk to about doing the work for you. Too much analysis leads to paralysis :righteous:
Quote from: RDnuTZ on May 24, 2025, 10:40:35 AMagree with your conclusion. Now actually go FIND a person to talk to about doing the work for you. Too much analysis leads to paralysis :righteous:
I've been asking around locally(the machinist I go to knew a real good source here in CA.,but the man died)and searching online;no luck so far.
I just looked up FMF exhaust. According to this contact info they are in California. There's a telephone number on this contact page. Maybe they may do some custom work? Or somebody there can do it on the side?
https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf (https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf)
Quote from: RDryan on May 24, 2025, 12:03:43 PMI just looked up FMF exhaust. According to this contact info they are in California. There's a telephone number on this contact page. Maybe they may do some custom work? Or somebody there can do it on the side?
https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf (https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf)
I can give them a shot.
Quote from: grcamna3 on May 24, 2025, 12:48:17 PMQuote from: RDryan on May 24, 2025, 12:03:43 PMI just looked up FMF exhaust. According to this contact info they are in California. There's a telephone number on this contact page. Maybe they may do some custom work? Or somebody there can do it on the side?
https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf (https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf)
I can give them a shot.
How about the local vocational schools,got any? Some kids in a welding fab shop or maybe
automotive. It's interesting looking at those pics, I really can't see why anybody with the tools,facilities can't just focus on the damaged sections. Cut it apart at the welds but of course reference positions where they attach and hammer out/smooth/polish out the dents. Maybe not perfect but I imagine doable and especially if you're not concerned with the chrome.
Quote from: RDryan on May 24, 2025, 12:03:43 PMI just looked up FMF exhaust. According to this contact info they are in California. There's a telephone number on this contact page. Maybe they may do some custom work? Or somebody there can do it on the side?
https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf (https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf)
Pretty sure they only do product development and product/merch sales these days. I remember an article from a couple years back detailing the evolution of the company through different eras and younger generation family members assuming control of the company while moving away from the original business model from the 1970s.
Quote from: RDryan on May 24, 2025, 02:36:16 PMQuote from: grcamna3 on May 24, 2025, 12:48:17 PMQuote from: RDryan on May 24, 2025, 12:03:43 PMI just looked up FMF exhaust. According to this contact info they are in California. There's a telephone number on this contact page. Maybe they may do some custom work? Or somebody there can do it on the side?
https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf (https://www.fmfracing.com/pages/contact-fmf)
I can give them a shot.
How about the local vocational schools,got any? Some kids in a welding fab shop or maybe
automotive. It's interesting looking at those pics, I really can't see why anybody with the tools,facilities can't just focus on the damaged sections. Cut it apart at the welds but of course reference positions where they attach and hammer out/smooth/polish out the dents. Maybe not perfect but I imagine doable and especially if you're not concerned with the chrome.
I think that would be a good choice;especially if they have good,step by step communication with me.
The instructor,that is..
again, find somebody that does sheet metal work. they guy you're looking for does car restorations, chopper fabrication, metal art... etc. Not a pipe builder. No pipe builder want sot fix 50 year old pipes somebody else built.
the gage of those pipes is far, far thicker than anything used these days.
Quote from: m in sc on May 24, 2025, 06:20:20 PMagain, find somebody that does sheet metal work. they guy you're looking for does car restorations, chopper fabrication, metal art... etc. Not a pipe builder. No pipe builder want sot fix 50 year old pipes somebody else built.
the gage of those pipes is far, far thicker than anything used these days.
Okay,makes sense to me.