I've been wanting to experiment with a smaller battery to fit extra spark plug, oil, registration, and etc within the battery box. Found this battery years back but didnt isn't to pull the trigger on it to test it out until I found it for 10$ shipped to my door. Its a 12v 0.8ah battery
Previously I was running your 5ah alarm battery and printed a battery box for it. As you can see, it significantly smaller and runs great with my current set up (hpi ignition with full wave r/r). Have not tested on a stock ignition system yet, I'll be throwing it on my dyna s bike soon to see how it runs and report back.
https://youtube.com/shorts/_CChULe2USc?si=dS33zSGV3zVff8eY
Hi quocle603: With the HPI, are you running your Hi/Lo beam off the battery or HPI rotor? Or Aux LED lights? If yes, is the HPI capable of charging the battery given that the HPI system is a single-phase system? Thank you Sir, kindly.
Oh hi again! Yeah, I am running the hi/lo system that came with the bike with LEDs installed for the lights. You can make have the HPI run the lights and charge the battery. Just take the wire that is grounded on the unit and run it to the other ac wire on the regulator/rectifier.
I haven't ran it for a long duration yet since riding season is almost done here in New England.
I saw a battery this size at home depot, ill probably end up getting one if this one is working out good for you.
I only need a battery to trigger my ignition kill relay as I am using HPI ignition too.
yeah, this would also be ok w the vape im sure. my only concern with a dyna and a coil setup is passing that much current thru it might be a bit too much for it to take. im curious to see how this works out, id like to fit one this size to the lightweight to reduce h/l and brake light flicker at idle.
I am curious about my results as well. Ill just be sure to bring a spare battery just in case it does not survive so I dont get stranded somewhere.
I'll try to upload the battery box this weekend for people to 3d print.
I've run a 20v drill battery off an hpi with a generic r/r. the g3 w cr85 motor was set up like that. worked well but the capacity, in that application, had a hard time keeping up at idle. and I was just running an led headlight, tail light, and GPS speedometer. just 0.02
Instead of that battery, have you tried a capacitor (battery eliminator)? If you need +12v for a relay, that won't work of course. I first used a Lucas 2MC capacitor on a 57 pre-unit T100 Triumph with a K2F Magneto and permanent magnet alternator - pretty much the old school version of a Vape from a functionality perspective. That was back in the early 70's and it worked like a charm.
I have my HPI using a ground out kill switch, no relay needed. I never have to charge the battery using a LED headlight and taillight bulbs.
i tried a capacitor, it helped.
I've got a decade on a 2200mah RC battery. Well I've replaced it three times. But that's not bad.
Excited field, led lights, solid state reg/rectifier. Make sure the carbs are clean and tuned and it's never a problem. Fight to get it started and you're asking for less than excited fields and a broke down bike. 6000mah pack solves that problem for the most part.
Quote from: sav0r (CL MotoTech) on November 09, 2025, 04:15:40 PMI've got a decade on a 2200mah RC battery. Well I've replaced it three times. But that's not bad.
Excited field, led lights, solid state reg/rectifier. Make sure the carbs are clean and tuned and it's never a problem. Fight to get it started and you're asking for less than excited fields and a broke down bike. 6000mah pack solves that problem for the most part.
You charged that 4cell RC battery with a regular old solid state regulator/rectifier? How did you balance cells or ensure it was fully charged? I use a 2200 on the GT and a 1300 on the RD but they only run half a mile at a time with say 4 laps a day. with a 1 amp charge rate, they charge for 120 minutes to maintain a full 14.8 volts.