These look ridiculous, maybe they are, but the price looks good and if the see-thru bowl will last, it would be handy:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396383837533?
More down-to-earth here and in a Sudco box. Real Keihin and looks like it's ready to accept injection oil. Maybe worth the extra coin?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/388928076030?
Trying to start the carb kit on the RZ.
Carb mouths are bigger, so would have to plan for angled(?) UNI pods and I'd want to get the cable arrangement right the first time.
the second ones are the same I bought and have used. get JJH needles from jets r us, swap em in. you'll be between a 145-160 main. 38-42 pilot . ive tuned a few rzs w these
Ive seen quite a few people complaining that the see through bowls dont seal well and they are constantly fighting fuel leaks.
ive used the clear float bowl ones on a project with no problems, one advantage of that particular type is that they have an adjustable power jet. i have literally leant down and dialed the carb at wide open throttle, right up to spluttering, then back down a bit, great fun!
Yea I got the 2nd ones(SUDCO) and they definitely improved performance overall. I was able to find a pair of PWK30 mm for about 50 dollars. Sudco is gone now so there may be alot of those floating around ebay. when I initially purchased them they sent me 3" exhaust flex hose instead. It took them about a month to get that all straightened out...
the 'sudco' ones are copies. they are excellent copies but are not genuine.. imho not that it matters, they work well and tune exactly like a genuine pwk. just 0.02
A few years ago, I did genuine KX80 PWK28's off Partzilla on my LC. They were $115 each, but are up around $200 each now, I think.
They fit right in to the stock manifolds, but UPP flat back urethane manis are way better if you're using VForce reeds, etc.
I used the stock throttle cable(s) with angled top adjusters off eBay to get the cable length right, especially at the oil pump. Oil bung fittings were off eBay also, and I installed them in the top boss next to the choke plunger.
I'll look for a link to the adjusters.
JB Weld in the photo is to secure the oil fittings in a hole drilled in the top engine-side boss?
Quote from: 2steve on April 08, 2026, 12:24:50 PMJB Weld in the photo is to secure the oil fittings in a hole drilled in the top engine-side boss?
Jim uses the JB to keep his Tecate from sliding off the table :guinness:
Usually, but in this case, yes, it was to secure the oil fittings.
These are what you need for the cables. Without them, the oil pump cable from the splitter is either too tight, or too loose (can't remember which) and isn't able to be adjusted properly. Also gets the cables headed in the right direction toward the front of the bike.
https://ebay.us/m/qzvdBF
I had bad luck with the cable ends being able to fit through the rather tight ID of those angled adjusters. Got one left after abusing one of two to try to make it work.
However, just ordered a pair of genuine PWK28s from eBay - old Sudco.
$150 for the kit made up for a Banshee. Comes with a split cable with no oil pump leg. Also another needle and other extra jets. Maybe I can use the carb legs off that cable and graft them into an RD400 unit splitter housing with the RZ oil pump cable.
I can guess that the oil pump cable was too long to be able to take out all the slack. So, I see what you are saying, Jim.
Can you tell I don't want to pay Ed Toomey $700 for the whole RZ kit?
Thanks!
@elliottles1 - what you said really tempted me to consider those blue ones with the clear bowl and adjustable power jet.
post the link, i have doubts they are genuine. not saying they arent good, just saying. is the slide screw brass or plastic on the ones you bought? and youre going to love em regardless.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/227224350662
They look legit. Don't know the deal with the possible brass plug in the power jet hole, etc. The included cable won't work, but parts of it might. Hoping for the right jets.
they are 100% copies. good ones though, those are identicke to the ones ive run
Buy an RZ with crappy carburetors Steve! It will be fun they said. I pray the PWK's treat you better.
we got Josh's rz running with those exact carbs, it ran great as far as fueling went.
The VM28s seem to have lost a little of the mid-range punch. I'm guessing it's a drop in velocity compared to the stock VM26 carb, but the top end would make up for that.
Maybe PWK28s will give me both.
its not tuned for an rz, but your 400. different pipes, porting etc. I ran 30s on my rz it had plenty of midrange, but I tuned the carbs for that bike. you did a parts swap, w no real adjustment for motor difference . tbh im surprised it runs as well as it does just swapping it over.
We run VM30's on the RD350 race bike we campaign in the 6hr kart track endurance race we do every year.
GRA2strokes Garrett tuned the topend (porting, o-ring skimmed heads, etc) and it runs stronger than any other RD I've ridden. Especially in the midrange which is everything on a short kart track.
PWK28's arrived today.
What about that orificed "power jet"?
Is that a vacuum port in the photo?
Don't know that I can trust the jetting "for Banshee with open intake" since the numbers on the main jets look too small.
Maybe the needle is right, but I don't see "JJH" anywhere on either the installed one or the extra.
They do look very well made :thumbs:
Do I need to check the float level?
Suggestion for oil injection fittings for drill and press into the carb boss?
look at my pwk thread. I also told you some recommendations on setup. those are bowl vents. they can just be left open. there is no vacuum port on them.
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=6585.30
leave the jet up top alone. Josh ran the carbs in my thread, the exact ones, on his rz (until he converted it to a 421). Jjh needle, I think he was at 152 mains and a 38 pilot and it ran strong. it's good starting point that's been proven. look close you can just see them here
Thanks! Looks like UNI's in there. Right one might have to be 15° (battery box) and the left one straight. You used 30mm carbs though, right?
28mm would likely use the same main jet?
I'm looking to add vacuum for possible future use.
Will look to find an M5 or 10-32 "T" fitting. One branch for oil and the other capped off for vacuum. What could possibly go wrong.
These carbs are like jewelry compared to Mikuni VMs. AI told me that the default N68N needle is equivalent to JJH.
DID you adjust floats - or just check to make sure they were even?
why vacuum? no need. seriously. the vac petcocks are just waiting to hydrolock your motor. but if you must can always drill and tap. yes jetting will be very close to that. same body. jjh needles available from jetsrus
I do have a brand new Yamaha RZ petcock and having had a Kawi ZRX with a vacuum petcock, I learned that the key is that tiny o-ring inside. A member of the forum sells them for cheap. Buy a bag of those (in Viton, I think) and periodically change them. So, seriously thinking about it.
RD400 barbed oil fittings and jets are on order for now. Planning to drill the carb boss so that they are a "press fit".
I did leave the RD400 petcock open once and it sat for a long time. Must have come really close to ruining the bottom end when I thoughtlessly tried to start it.
not going to save it from leaking with a flake of rust behind it.. seen that, hydrolcked a kawasaki concours motor that way. well, my ex father in law. also saw an h1 crank seal get blown out with a hydrolocked case, petcock again.(my friend mark in Alabama's 73) new bikes.. ok. old stuff I never use vacuum. but again, my preference. even my tzr, lined tank w vacuum petcock, has a manual valve after it. fwiw, im getting my pwks back Sunday, i can look at where the jetting is for the rz and relay it. 0.02
And there's the perfect solution, Mark. Factory vacuum petcock with a manual valve after it.
I could easily put it on reserve while rolling along :thumbs:
Relaying the jetting will be most valuable.
My RZ vacuum petcock got switched to a RD400 type after sitting all winter and I was doing a spring start up. Thank goodness I wheeled it out of the garage. She fired right up. I look behind me and gas was blasting out of the exhaust pipe like a garden hose. Horrified, I shut it down. Somehow the one pipe must have had about a quart of gas in it. If I was in the garage, and it lit off, who knows, I may have lost everything. :eek:
You would have lost some hair, at least.
When it happened to me, I went for a quick romp around the neighborhood to clear it out. It did run very well at that time.
I recommend an RD400 petcock for a stock or mild motor. And the 660 Raptor for a bigger motor with big carbs.
Quote from: m in sc link=msg=63132fwiw, im getting my pwks back Sunday, i can look at where the jetting is for the rz and relay it. 0.02
Did you get jetting from Josh's carbs?
Waiting for the #25 and #30 drill bits to come in to make the final moves.
herm did not actually. forgot them
It escapes me how best/easiest to prime the oil lines to the carbs. Pull pump with tubes dangling and turn with a drill? Any tips?
Mark, I dropped in JJH needles middle position, 150 mains and 40 pilots.
It's always nice to collect a sticker from Jets-R-Us in the current color.
Used a #30 drill for the RD400 repop oil fittings. They measure 0.129" at the brass tube and the drill is 0.1285. Wiped some sealant on them leaving the brass tube clean and "gently" tapped them in because they are mostly plastic. Probably not budging because of the interference fit.
This little exercise saves me $350-$400 over a complete kit as long as I don't ruin anything.
itll be fine. just keep an eye on it. im pretty sure we ran Josh's 1 lean on the needle. as farcas priming the lines, juat pull the oil pump cable wide open on startup. itll get to throttle cyls fast. no worries
What Mark said about pulling the pump cable wide open. Sounds like you're getting closer to PWK bliss.
PWK's are on. Some oil in the lines. Cable finagled out of 2 angled Banshee carb cables that came with the Sudco carbs, oil leg that came with the busted CMSNL cable and the splitter housing tie wrapped tightly so it will stay together normally. Fuel lines run. Waiting on finishing later with the UNIs. Synched up. Not started yet.
I'll probably start it and fill the lines tonight or tomorrow. My hands are worn out. You guys didn't warn me that the PWK slide springs are too much to handle without creative tool usage.
The throttle snap back is amazing though.
Mark, I took your hint and dropped the needle one step. Really hope I don't have to go back in and change it :shocked:
Hemostats will help with the springs.
squeeze the spring down w your index and middle finger w the cable between them, and the carb dop w your ring finger and thumb. easy peasy. :twocents:
That spring is strong and skinny and squirrely. Mikunis are a cake walk. I couldn't make it go that way. Used 90 degree needle nose plus straight needle nose while hands were cramping.
Rode it and the main is close enough at 150. A little burbly down low, so turning out the air screw for the next ride.
Cable is a little too long, so I'll fiddle with it.
Would be nice to have an extension with a split in it.
Hmmm, maybe a clutch cable adjuster?
you can get longer adjusters or double stack them. im aware of the springs, next time i see you ill show you the way to do it. the tms are the same way
I maxed out the adjustment at the throttle housing to two threads left. It's just enough.
One more shakedown to see if the pilots need to drop down a size.
The metallic thunk when the slides hit bottom is satisfying.
I'm right at the end on cable adjustment. Lengthened the adjustment at each carb too.
This is a 6mm thread. Maybe there is a ready made product to give me another 1/8" with a slot to slip it in?
I'll check the web for a "standoff" adapter and cut a slot with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw(?)
Still running very well.
Gotta check the iggy and power valve curves and make sure they are what I think they are.
pretty sure its m6x.75
I agree on the thread pitch. I bought a tap and die in that size just to have.
Thanks!
I slipped a gapped lock washer where the cable goes into the throttle housing. Did more than I thought it would. Had to pull in on the adjustment. It's perfect.
Fooling with the air screw and needle now. I might want to visit, Mark.
The tach seems to be reading high, which doesn't help my brain. However, suddenly going wide open at "7k" in 3rd gear is very rewarding.