Doesn't look like there's been a discussion around batteries on the new site, so figured I'd start one since I need a new battery.
What are people's general thoughts for RDs?
Type: Conventional v. sealed v. gel v. Li-Ion?
Brand: Yuasa v. Parts Unlimited v. Antigravity v. other?
I used Lithium batts for awhile but found them to mostly be more hassle than they were worth
Now back to AGM in all but the KTM as the Li batt in it hasn't failed yet
i have a Yuasa. Just keep it full and on the trickle charger over the winter and it's fine. Just battery acid is a pain.
My sealed Yuasa is great. No need to mess with acid.
Pad in the RD battery box, use AGM Yamaha Zuma battery.
My only real choice for my builds. I know some like the alarm cheapos... but I like a bolt on terminal not a blade connection for our vibrating RD's
Plus the Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) hold up well, I've had them last 4-5 years! To me that's outstanding life.
Chuck
AGM is the way to go. Like $30 at Batteries Plus
Moto Batt AGM in all my two strokes.
BikeMaster TruGel. Hasn't let me down yet! :vroom:
I have had a Bike Master Lithium Ion DLPP%L-BS , 1.5 lbs holds charge all winter no problems
I buy Made in USA AGM batteries from Batteries Plus. I have one in an FT500 that is more than 6 years old.
I have one Anti-Gravity battery. The first one took a dump too soon. The second one is still good.
I use a Battery Tender & rotate through the batteries every couple of months. http://products.batterytender.com/Chargers/PN-021-0199-DL-WH.html
been using a sealed LB battery that I got from a local electronic store. It cost me 5-10 dollars and has been working great.
Using a non-lead (LiPoFe) battery is one of the best ways to cut weight on any motorcycle, IMHO.
On my Powerdynamo equipped RD350A, I have been using this lightweight battery:
https://www.super-b.com/en/automotive/sb12v2600p-ac
On my XS650D with stock alternator, ignition and electric starter, I use this one:
https://www.super-b.com/en/automotive/sb12v5200p-ac
These batteries are both more than 5 years old, weigh exactly 1 lb and 2 lbs, respectively. The XS cranks over better than with a 14Ah AGM battery.
I really can recommend Super-B batteries!
I'm using an Alarm battery on my wifes RD125 and a $25 RC li-ion pack in my 350.. The 125 is stock, notably it doesn't have a regulator, just a rectifier. I guess the charging system is small enough that the battery can handle the charging without any regulation. My 350 has modern regulator/rectifier.
Both work just fine.
In terms of the specs of the battery, what is required and what would be overkill for use on our kick-start RDs?
The stock Yuasa has a capacity of 5.5AH, and 50 CCA (at least for the RD400). Is there anything to be gained for getting a battery that is 70, 80, 100+ CCA, or just a waste since we don't have starters? What about amp hours of less than or greater than the stock 5.5AH?
I'd think the AH should be no lower than the stock Yuasa, but looks like the Zuma 50 battery is 4AH and apparently that works fine. Would 3AH be too little? 6AH overkill?
Quote from: NYSingh on August 05, 2019, 10:47:42 PM
In terms of the specs of the battery, what is required and what would be overkill for use on our kick-start RDs?
The stock Yuasa has a capacity of 5.5AH, and 50 CCA (at least for the RD400). Is there anything to be gained for getting a battery that is 70, 80, 100+ CCA, or just a waste since we don't have starters? What about amp hours of less than or greater than the stock 5.5AH?
I'd think the AH should be no lower than the stock Yuasa, but looks like the Zuma 50 battery is 4AH and apparently that works fine. Would 3AH be too little? 6AH overkill?
I buy the 5AH Zuma, have to look at spec's on it, they make both.
In reality a 5AH is fine, even smaller if you use a Powerdynomo MZB (Vape) as they are truly a modern system as 2 units, magneto to run ignition and charging system to charge the battery. They don't care about a battery as long as it's charging to keep the lights on.
Stock RD systems will not start or run well without a good battery (new 4AH and up) The PD doesn't even need a battery as I said its magneto for ignition to run.
It boils down your lighting/charging load setup that can and will determine if you want larger battery...like having a fouled plug out in the middle of nowhere at night and want to run the headlight to see in the dark to change out a plug without killing the battery if still on a stock system! if you kill the battery it won't start with a new plug... :bang:
Chuck
led headlights and bulb lights go a long way as well. :twocents:
I'd carry a cheap small LED torch or headlamp for any roadside problems or emergencies, instead of relying on the bike battery and headlights for that purpose. In my opinion, the main argument for 5Ah or even more, is the parking lights. The taillight bulb draws 5W, and I guess the front is somewhere between 3 and 5 w. So stock parking lights woill draw close to 1A, giving 5 hours of light at best. Now I am not sure what's available, but LED bulbs would cut the current draw significantly, and a smaller battery would be absolutely fine, especially with a magneto CDI setup like Powerdynamo/VAPE/Banshee/HPI where the ignition is self generating. No battery is not that great IMHO.
(all bulbs stock type)
an 1157 draws .83a on low @10w, 2.6a on high. 1156 is roughly the same on low.
headlight @35w is roughly 2.9a
figure .4a for each gauge bulb.
+ coils, and turn signal relay of stock. it adds up quick.