I am slowly working on my project bike and am starting to reassemble to make it a roller. The bike has rear-sets on (unsure of the manufacturer but previous owner bought alot of stuff from Gary at Spec II many years back). I looked at the brake spring and the attachment point on the factory mount is not replicated in any means on the rear-sets. Wanted to know if anyone had any slick ideas to fabricate one or had this same situation, how it was resolved? I found a picture of my 1973 I had ~10 years ago and how this was originally mounted. I also took pics of my current setup, was thinking of creating something that mounted on the foot-peg thru hole but wanted to get some ideas first before venturing down this rabbit hole. Further looking at it appears that this was cut off so the right peg would not protrude beyond the rear-set, may be prudent to just get another right side and reconfigure.
Pics of setup
Hard to tell from your pictures, but I assume you are not using the passenger peg mount with those rearsets (whatever they may be)?
These:
It looks like the passenger or right side peg mount is on there, but the aft section has been cut off. I can only assume this was done so that the peg mount didn't protrude beyond the rear set, wishing they just would've cut this off and kept the eye intact. I also don't know if this was cut off so that the turnbuckles on the rear sets could move without striking it.
What does the black bracket attached with the Allen head screw on the lever over the spliced shaft do, brake light switch?
It appears that the previous owner cut the rear half off of the bracket, unsure if this was to give additional clearance for the turnbuckles. I found one on eBay for 15 bucks so will put this on and determine if I can cut off the footpeg mount, leaving the spring bracket and still have adequate clearance for the turnbuckles
Keeping the stock brake actuation arm, rod, etc with rearsets ends up being a heavy and clunky arrangement. IMHO, the best rearset brake arrangement would be a disc brake rear hub. Second best would be a cable actuated rear drum brake, similar to TR3/ TZ350 .See pic below.
Note the smooth curve of the cable, very different from one aftermarket setup I have seen advertised. Also, that curve prevents water accumulation in the cable.
a lot of rearsets didn't use a committed return spring. Just depends on the style and preference