I had a long running thread on the old forum for my hybrid project which stalled in early 2017
because of a few things like motivation, Interest, finances and time but I started thinking
about the project again a few weeks ago. Its currently taking up a lot of space in the garage
and under the bed so I want to close it out and also try and get it dry built so that I can
register it here in Ireland. The frame is still registered in the U.K and I figure the process
could get a little more complicated post BREXIT.
There will be a lot of images but small 100kb ish file sizes.
So I will start the thread here but condense it as much as possible and try a post a timeline
as to the project progress from when it started in:
February 2013
with a 1975 RD250 B engine which lets face it looked horrendous. I bought it cheap with carbs
but missing a cover or 2.
After a false start with a different frame I bought a "roller" from Northern Ireland, an RD350F2
which came with a YAMAHA YSF-R125 swingarm which is a popular mod to the frame around:
September 2014
February 2015
First task was to ditch the standard swingarm and fit the YZF unit with a previously bought
Honda Varadero XL125 rear wheel [which was to fit in a different swingarm and of the right
profile to take a 120 wide tyre]
Fitting the swingarm also meant fitting the YZF shock and fabricating new linkages.
A knock on issue was the swingarm fouling the L/H rear set so both had to be angled for clearance.
February 2015
I split the cases so early in the build because I wanted to get the crank rebuilt and rather then
lifting the engine in and out to get it mounted in the frame was going got be a pain in the back
December 2016
I was able to get the crank delivered and rebuilt in the U.K cheaper than buying the parts
and having someone do it in Ireland.
March 2015
The engine mounting session was a mammoth one, of course the air cooled engine had slightly
different mounting points and I spent a lot of time shifting and lining up the front and rear sprockets
while making sure everything was centered and straight with clearance of the frame and swingarm.
March 2015
Engine mounts finalised, brackets fabricated and welded in place.
The top rear mount will actually be changed as in the right hand plate will sit on the inner
side of the frame mount with a shorter spacer used.
March 2015
After fitting the swingarm and earlier fitting a front end with an Aprilia RS125 unit I got
the bike leaning properly on fresh rubber with aid of a Honda CBR600 sidestand.
Next up I test fitted a set of Codnor Micron exhausts from an RD250LC which fouled the
sidestand so mods had to be made to the sidestand.
Its 2020 and we are in social distancing mode and possibly entering a country wide lockdown
because of COVID-19 here in Ireland and oh yes its St.Patricks Day! Happy Paddys Day to all!
There is all of a sudden lots more time to work on other stuff like finishing my project . . .
So I will continue the story from where I left off about a year ago.
March 2015
After sorting out the side stand I moved onto fitting the pipes properly and sorting the issues
which popped up.
Because of the wider swingarm the pipes and end cans wouldnt clear the arm,
I took the plunge and cut the end can off the left hand exhaust. This enabled me to mount
the main body of the exhaust to the engine/frame to check the side stand clearance and spring
location.
The end can will have to be extended by a minimum of 125mm to clear the swingarm. The image below
shows it extended fully by about 200mm. This also places it wider than before.
Also at the header end of the pipes there was a clearance issue,
I cut a length of pipe to simulate the header length and offered it up to see how the exhaust on the left
sat. There are two issues,
[1.] the inside rib on the Micron exhaust clashes with the cross bar of the frame but this can be ground
down to clear in that particular spot and welded to re-seal if needed, this will also have to be done with
the right side too.
[2.] the end can as mentioned before clashes with the swinger which is wider on the left for the chain run.
I am planning to slice a piece off the inside at a straight angle and weld a flat piece back on. This will
only affect the padding inside and not the baffle itself. it shouldn't be too much to remove, approximately
20mm in and about 50mm in length . . .
June 2015
I made a start about stripping the frame totally while the front end was off. I flipped the frame and installed the
engine cases with the barrels and heads in order to finalise a solution for the left side exhaust pipe. I think I have
sourced a suitable bit of mild steel pipe to extend the silencer past the swingarm.
After sourcing a suitable length of pipe with the correct bore I cut a section with angled ends
to extend the end can of the left pipe to clear the swingarm. The end can will be extended by about
70mm. The original internal stinger has been cut to be welded in place where it would normally be
with the other end with the silencer being able to fit back into the end can. The stabilizer strap will
have to be remade to span across the 3 sections of pipe.
The images below show the pipes taped up to give an impression of the layout/run of the pipe.
And the finished product...
In between getting the kick stand and exhausts sorted I got proper lockstops fitted,
the top yoke and bars fitted, refurbished the front forks along with refurbishing an
original set of clocks which I purchased off one of the members here! I also got
an old Stanley headlight modified with some plastic welding [I think the headlight
bucket is actually fibreglass?] Oh yes and I also refurbed a set of original switch gear which
was got from this forum!
Between March and June when the pipes were finished I also managed to get the rear calipers sorted.
I had to have the rear carrier modified to mount the Honda Varadero caliper and carrier to the swingarm with a piece welded in to mock
the Yamaha YZF carrier, this is how it sits now. this has to be painted and fully finished.
July 2015
Front caliper fully refurbished with new pistons and seals
I also got the gear shift linkage sorted using and modifying some spare aprilia RS125 parts
which I had in my RS125 bank!
July 2015
The project started to take a bit more shape after fitting the wiring loom and working out the
routing and what exact loom I had, again sourced from the old 2strokeforum.
Fast forward about 16 months to November 2016 and I collected the heads, Barrels and side casings
from a company I sourced which specialised in Vapour Blasting. Absolute stellar job to say the least.
I couldnt have dont this myself, couldnt have gotten in between the cooling fins to clear away all the old paint
and oxidisation.
My plan is to paint the crank cases black, polish the side casings and leave the barrels and heads bare
December 2016
Sent the crank over to the UK to be built, I couldnt find anyone in Ireland
who could do it and I got it rebuilt in the UK cheaper than I could buy
the parts myself.
I got it done with http://firefoxracing.co.uk/
January 2017
I managed to source 2 identical branded pistons as a kit, with rings, Clips and Gudgeon Pins.
I couldnt find any info regarding the "Made in Taiwan" Speed brand and labeled for RD250DX
The tolerances work out pretty good and are as follows:
Cylinder oversize measurement: 0.035 - 0.040 = 0.035
Piston Ring end gap: 0.25 - 0.40 = 0.30
These are approximate measurements with feeler gauges.
...and this is the last I worked on the project until earlier this year
2020
I invested in an ultrasonic cleaner and proper solution to clean the grubby carbs.
I had previously purchased new parts from Yambits to complete the rebuild, New jets, needles, choke, seals and screws.
So after a good going over with a dremil and stainless steel brush I removed the old paint and oxidisation and then
gave them a good cleaning in the UC.
Next up I need to make a list of what parts I need to complete the job and what tasks I need to do on the bike to finish
Wonderful details and a great story; I can relate to much of it myself! You've taken some bold steps and I'm anxious to see more of your progress.
such a weird build, love it. :clap:
Quote from: 85RZwade on March 19, 2020, 08:31:07 PM
Wonderful details and a great story; I can relate to much of it myself! You've taken some bold steps and I'm anxious to see more of your progress.
yes some bold steps, i could have probably taken some more straight forward steps ..... :umm:
Quote from: m in sc on March 20, 2020, 02:42:09 PM
such a weird build, love it. :clap:
a weird build is right, probably wouldnt have been so weird with a less "hybrid" approach.
will post a small update soon
Is odd but looking good, glad your making progress on it.
Thanks RDFL
This is something I have been looking to do since I finished all the
other engine mounts. The top rear bracket and spacer was too wide
so I cut the welded nuts off the existing mounting point and
placed the right side bracket on the left side of the mounting point,
also shortening the aluminium spacer.
Moving to the lower mounts which I was going to leave off, But I read
somewhere online that these engines want to twist while running so
I have had in mind to get these lower mounts sorted. I made the brackets
but need to have them welded to the frame.
Excellent outline and timeline. Weird builds, that make sense, rule IMO 8)
Reminiscent of my Suzonda project in many ways (listed on here), engine rebuild and mount fab, brakes, suspension....frame, carbs...the list, like yours, is endless.
I'm also looking to modify and adapt the RD350LC Microns to suit the GT200 engine in a Honda 400/4 frame. This project also started a good few years ago and spluttered into life, then withered and died for a while....but it's now fully watered and flourishing in our isolation climate :)
looking forward to checking in on your progress.....no backing out now buddy.
Thank you sir!
well I have done nothing on the project since the last post, the weather has been too good
to be stuck in the garage even though I have been home for the last 5 weeks :umm:
I will pop over and visit the Suzonda project . . .
Everything disassembled today and frame gone to the welder.
The rear brackets for the engine mount and the shock mounts are to be welded in place
along with a crack in one of the tubes which happens a bit with these frames I believe.
Images below show where I have started grinding away at the crack to get a flush weld.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QShfbyRFS3U/Xs5gTPcqLVI/AAAAAAAAB6k/NKzb_Js3DHwLswejj8paxOygxIj_E_MOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1590583364517375-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZIs2PrIf998/Xs5gQqsHY9I/AAAAAAAAB6g/K1BU_OhYOMcaU6GjAWkagwVuslq4ro51QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1590583356565675-1.png)
I also have attacked the seat and tank locks.
The helmet and seat lock doesnt have a key and is busted, Im not sure if I bother getting a replacement, the seat latch on both sides work which is good enough for now.
And also the tank lock is fully operational but needs a tidy, I might consider a pattern replacement.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o51gCkfNupQ/XtAuVM6izkI/AAAAAAAAB64/aMGehZ0vvbsrsFiQGmLTtnW1ZWzqJOZFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/seat-lock-01.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SMQQRRMcb98/XtAuWuNwNkI/AAAAAAAAB7A/9Tpb2q9lobgkvP73vL7vw_uxbqVWUEViwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/seat-lock-02.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-doVJ7MRZM7U/XtAuVo6UHNI/AAAAAAAAB68/URNYPcgTXJYQuHpVSbR1Jb1za6o-tH46gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/tank-lock.jpg)
It's the gazillion small jobs that consume hours of time....I emerge from the garage 3hours later.....behold, I cleaned this thing!
It's also very rewarding to fix a faulty thing too.
The seat hinge and lock were the only parts I cut off the 400 frame.
yes what seems like an hour is actually 3
so I got the frame back from the welders, first job before the final build
is to remove the unwanted tabs and brackets from the frame before i
paint it.
Today i opened all the boxes to familiarise myself with what I have and
more importantly dont have, group shot ahead...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8qlD-XXqUCQ/XwDZhBk8KSI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/exXSbhnsjWYgInV-punFn0pihCDbKTEwgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1593891189338557-0.png)
Final build.....I dream of the final build. Have fun :celebrate:
its only taken 7 years, I have dreamt many times of this.
at the moment I am prepping the frame for paint, I have the unwanted tabs removed and frame sanded. This evening Im going to treat the rust spots before paint.
so the frame painting is under way, I have 5 coats of 2k signal black paint done, and I plan on a few more coats.
here are inages of the frame coated with some rust converter chemical called Oxirite, it neutralises the rust which can then be painted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hKmfF8_AKgg/XwRjU0ni7VI/AAAAAAAAB9A/gWnc3dcWC9Y-z9uuzKGehuUqFL1GrxkHACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1594123091004096-1.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8D1VSEPaoJs/XwRjVxYLydI/AAAAAAAAB9E/DBc06FpmDMk2xt2FZkoSKtI40SHD2KmqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1594123094629312-0.png)
Painting finished, about 8 coats of 2K Satin Signal Black RAL9004
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oajTXEfip5Y/XwY2WBGx9uI/AAAAAAAAB9U/ZntwZj4HAngT3x4Eg0-WcQoGwsMT5NrqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1594242639975289-0.png)
before the frame painting I built up the rolling chassis to chect the shock mounts
and the new swingarm spacers.
I thinking or either stripping and polishing the swingarm or repainting it gloss black?
ill be leaving the head, barrels and side casings vapour blast finished and black wheels.
here she is
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jrMLDQkcqAU/Xwi_yRLis_I/AAAAAAAAB9w/DSmLS48vM10oZHjt9SdAbA-iXWHqtb08wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1594408894223772-0.png)
I decided to polish the swingarm, It will contrast nicely againsh the satin black frame.
This swingarm was never intended to be polished, the finish is very uneven just like orange peel. Yamaha decided it would be best to have a "Matt" finish as a cost saving approach.
After approximately 8 hours over 2 days I have it ready for polishing. I started with a 3M scotch disc followed by 60, 80, 120, 240, 360 grit sanding discs, then 400 and 800 grit wet sand paper, (i have some 1200 wet and dry paper, I might give it the once over with that too)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TU_Jk8jYnxY/XwzazxKLJkI/AAAAAAAAB-g/N-dzEDt4A8QEBL8OerJl6UNTOOeDj0-3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1594677959103544-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jBcSJFW-vUc/XwzaxGnalKI/AAAAAAAAB-c/PsYGWTAINycAuUbI7fNt1nmn4LNY9hJagCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1594677950707101-1.png)
A ton of work in that swingarm for sure.....the end result should be awesome. What else will you polish?
ton of work for sure but not fonished yet!
the engine casings, heads and barrels are vapour blasted but that unveiled a good bit of pitting, im thinking of polishing the wet and dry side casings, painting the crankcases and possibly heads and barrels with fin edges polished.....a good bit of work there as well :bang:
i thought i was finished today with the swingarm but in the sunshine and after what I thought was the final polish there are still sanding marks showing, still a bit of work to do...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Ncr6RokvpA/XxSO-EohPfI/AAAAAAAAB_I/A32faco6TdE2T65QC4RuTBpoXuMwJsZMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1595182831308199-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xCnOXUhU30w/XxSO7kxnPeI/AAAAAAAAB_E/bW_ISydVtYEJfgWFpKS62qLJMOBSdMOcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1595182822747557-1.png)
For the last few days I have been prepping parts for painting, Satin Black is the finish, It goes better than gloss than my painting skills.
Parts painted:
Engine mount brackets
Taillight bracket
Seat Latches
Kickstart
Rear Master Cylinder
Brake pedal
Rear Caliper Carrier
Swing arm spindle [ends]
Gear Change Rod
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pb3cxYwgWsw/Xx4D--oT7nI/AAAAAAAAB_0/xDc-xt1D4YUR2CTu003Axi-LYkekusvzgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/parts-prepped.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWo_X0yGSbY/Xx4FT3SjHcI/AAAAAAAACAA/Fm2oq1SlIZgwSMuq6vasvvuwoHL-W29QwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/parts-painted.jpg)
After having to make 2 Aluminium spacers for the lower rear shock mount, parts were cleaned and greased and fitted to the frame.
I have some round Aluminium bar which I have been making spacers from with basic hand tools. First I mark the desired width with a pipe cutter and with a junior hack saw I cut a little at a time along the score mark rotating all the time to get a straight cut.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EgXrQNIUwZc/Xx9DbzNQ8-I/AAAAAAAACAM/2YhNPXfrtAAhruSo1IVw4bVOJO8RIkhxwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Lower-Shock-spacers.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FI3X7eHAGs0/Xx9D-UlHK2I/AAAAAAAACAU/j1itu4FQfF0g0XVQi_f48iHMEncQkgJogCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Lower-Shock-spacers-fitted.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Or0sCzfFnWY/Xx9EP8Mg5GI/AAAAAAAACAc/yXxTxUaWNZYECyPcnRFN5bfYaRmh-l-6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/front-and-rear-ends.jpg)
Spent about 5 hours in the garage today, Didnt feel like it though and certainly didnt get as much done as I hoped. Got the rear wheel fitted and the clearance between the brake disc bolts and carrier/swingarm is very tight, about 3 to 4mm.
Also got more done on the front end, fitted the clocks, headlight shell, Bars and controls. I made the headlight brackets myself from 4mm Aluminium plate and bought some fork brackets from ebay and sprayed the
chrome "silver". I also cut a small spacer from some tubing to hide the threads of the stainless bolts and used dome head nuts again to cover the threads.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NGor_TV7uLI/XyH5-sN-J3I/AAAAAAAACA4/DTqySF2Ysakpd_PKK-wDU-EAQ2Hla_wpwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/front-and-rear-part-2.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dpHjTpwYOrU/XyH6BCx79PI/AAAAAAAACBA/yfVw83c65lEj2MvAeq0hqkq1pTwvLT1FACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/front-close-up-01.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VEpmieIeWKs/XyH6ArUOnUI/AAAAAAAACA8/myLkde5gULMqy7soNQtSf7LBeEVJeKWmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/front-close-up-02.jpg)
Another task today was to repair the oil tank, the outlet nozzle was cracked where it joined the main body of the tank.
Whoever repaired it before used a kind of resin which was leaking, I removed the resin, cleaned the area with brake fluid
and "welded" some plastic into the area to seal it. I used a sliver of plastic from a coolant overflow tank, which obviously
wont be using and melted that with a soldering iron!
While welding the area I left a screwdriver stuck in the nozzle so that the area would retain its normal shape and not deform with the heat.
The job is perfect, I tested it for a water leak over a few hours and it aint leaking!
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sLgYaoDgnmQ/XyH9LKbkhII/AAAAAAAACBU/vm9gODMO6Z04DUPHO_59JXzIOpCJcNFQACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/oil-tank-repair-01.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pS3zmgsvyI/XyH9MiOmc1I/AAAAAAAACBc/batwZOC9wSINbX4XM5aFel511KWjesSdACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/oil-tank-repair-02.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4khlYLBUdM/XyH9MP2LtEI/AAAAAAAACBY/Lr6FE2lFHqQAca1LMyAIN1oBKzPjd2yTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/oil-tank-repair-03.jpg)
Lovely work on the headlight and a very resourceful fix of the tank :clap:
Quote from: 85RZwade on July 30, 2020, 08:52:15 AM
Lovely work on the headlight and a very resourceful fix of the tank :clap:
Thanks wade
So over the last few days I have been finishing the rear wheel, brakes and foot rest hangers.
I made up a braided hose and bled the brake, it took a while to get some pressure in the system but got there in the end.
The brake pedal just about cleared the bottom bolt of the hanger so I had to remove about 3mm off the head and smooth and polish that to take the hacked look off it.
I also removed the pillion footrests from the hangers, I think the angles work well.
Also after cleaning the oil tank, air filter box and battery box I got them fitted too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CuLqjS4Cfnc/XyXwVmwaxtI/AAAAAAAACB0/wMKeAY2gdaMtyUXXmToWCFAlgptlfab-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1596321864489760-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZRPcW_wEJ_Q/XyXwR2txt_I/AAAAAAAACBw/hx3WiUHqOHE3vK6o8g4DoNIpQZv3iQ1wgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1596321854054689-1.png)
not much of an update really, spent a good few hours over the weekend fiddling with the electrics, figuring out colours and connections.
Im working with a fairly good wiring loom which I got from one of the members on the old forum!
I abandonned the excersize as ill be fitting a powerdynamo ignition setup and will need to mate that to the loom and locate the rectifier etc.
I will be assembling the bottom half of the engine with ignition this week, just waiting on gearbox parts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xwgBEo49RhE/XylIiR5-jJI/AAAAAAAACCU/GKvKtDe78t8sqZrqiZs7gLJZ6SHfHQ94wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1596541062499434-0.png)
This is gonna be such a cool bike, I can feel it!
Man, that's looking sweet! :bacon: :cheers:
Thanks Lads!
Update coming soon . . . .
;D
bottom end is being built, im finding it difficult to get time in the garage to get this sorted. im missing a gear change detent plunger spring along with two oil seals for the gear selector fork shafts. So I have the cases cleaned, rebuilt crank fitted along with gearbox after a but if head scratching but it all makes sense......so far.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rfcfT52AyjA/XzJa8mXV8nI/AAAAAAAACC8/Zu0LOWZUaPEFm1eFhJ5OKSJ-QsifPTmhACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597135600294978-0.png)
Got the crankcases sealed with 3 Bond 1215 and buttoned up last night. Tonight was engine in frame time, what a battle! I certainly didnt make it easy for myself with my positioning of the mounts but its in but not tightened up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dGbaw1jGfH0/XzXSSWgmPcI/AAAAAAAACDI/o72kiyLAbGEM_dqMAEns9ALNZYpsV6nigCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597362745252366-0.png)
got a few hours in the garage today to tighten up the engine mountings, fit a new powerdynamo and fab up some simple brackets for the coil and rectifier.
I used some 4mm plate aluminium offcuts and repurposed a previously discarded bracket. So a bit of cutting and grinding and some bolt cutting was done today.
I am a bit dissapointed, I managed to damage the paintwork on the front engine mounts while tightening up today. Ill get a small can of touch up paint somewhere...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uylFjUyUS04/Xzho2EzFm_I/AAAAAAAACEA/e_96boV8WZsGC3uHlSZ2Ax4c3Ph4MPZbACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597532362561840-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uXuvkn0BsQA/XzhoykDTfRI/AAAAAAAACD8/zlk_N5B3mVcfZYG085DT5JRaxrvveqYcgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597532350284348-1.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UnXIzvwY19o/Xzhovf0N9WI/AAAAAAAACD4/PJKiXpLzixQYLMQ_pCtkuHRn4_qO6uX9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597532337861294-2.png)
Spent a good bit of time in the garage yesterday working on the electrics.
I have a few problems which need attention.
I have on key position I working high and low headlight with indicator light on the clocks,
I have a flashing stop lamp indicator but no taillight or brake light.
on key position II I only have the clocks illuminating.
The last thing I fitted was the neutral switch cable and realised I have the selector drum fitted incorrectly.
I have a neutral light coming on in 1st.
looks like it will be engine out and crankcases opened, 1 step forward and 2 steps back
yup, but it wasnt too bad, so far.
The engine is back out and on the bench after a big clean up of the electrical mess on the bench.
Gonna investigate what is going on with the gearbox.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rN7urVps_gQ/Xzt064n0QhI/AAAAAAAACEo/tFw2eygoQvQbNHeUrQ6950Cx1Ytu6mIeACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597732060694912-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-50m4Vm49Km4/Xzt021qGKgI/AAAAAAAACEk/w7c2g1jZo6sWK4vj3cu42B7wc57ABKjHACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597732045997235-1.png)
With the engine out and neutral position in the gearbox resolved I cleaned the cases again and applied fresh gasket cement.
The engine was buttoned up, the stator reassembled after some modifications and fitted.
here is the thread http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0
The mods included removing part of the crankcase to help the base plate sit flush. Fitting 2 extra countersunk screws to two plates where
there was initially 2 screws and applying some gasket cement to prevent a possible shorting event from wires vibrating against the housing.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzQ60F-wBi8/X0ZUlZeFtbI/AAAAAAAACFg/dY9pOb-DCEU1FPhTd5ufVe1BTdPnrPfPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/stator-final.jpg)
With the engine in the frame I started assembling the wet side of the engine, Kickstart and gear change mechanism fitted.
[/div][div]I had to fit 2 new screws/bolts to one of the retaining collars, 7 years ago when I disassembled the engine the original screws
[/div][div]had to be forceably removed. I used stainless bolts with blue thread lock.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V7AH5ff_vKs/X0ZV5QKGD2I/AAAAAAAACFo/3JBLH3-BGnkbZHzIwWft4sKyrqnLFiBuACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/wet-side.jpg)
I am a bit confused [again] I see to be missing some sort of retaining collar from the clutch shaft, there are 3 screw holes,
2 can be seen to the left of the shaft. I cannot see this part on any schematics.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rs7V9HesmH8/X0ZW-ljEuKI/AAAAAAAACFw/U6gaZQjidbESHwMNENSM0ByBsNMknRqRACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/replacement-screws.jpg)
So moving on I decided to prep the clutch basket, I filed down the groves on the basket and give all the parts a good clean in
some fresh petrol, next up is the clutch build.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETgaHsNLGsY/X0ZXGCTvLPI/AAAAAAAACF4/94xaAr9wojEGa0tIfv0wLd9Sj5BzDcrQQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/basket-before.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TaTgZ_JHQIo/X0ZXFDNxeiI/AAAAAAAACF0/vriMmUvhsjoJqq_9hAHIfOQ0KvYtV0CdACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/basket-after.jpg)
Here's a pic of the plate with 3 holes. Number 41 on the parts breakdown of the transmission. Looks like you have a plate with 2 holes? Does that fit there? I've never seen that part.
(https://i.ibb.co/yP0WNYQ/20200826-102657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C8BhwMH)
the 2 hole plate with the return is for the shift drum end. luckily, you dont have to split the cases.
the 3 hole goes behind the clutch, its the bearing retainer.
Thank you sirs! I got one ordered today, turns out I was missing
the circlip to hold the gear change shaft along with the rubber protector
for the shaft.
thanks for the help.
Waiting for parts to arrive so got a few bits done in between tinkering with the electrics . . .
When I bought the engine years ago there was no clutch cable holder and they cant be got
as a spare part that I know of. So from a 25mm diameter aluminium rod I cut a slice off
drilled a hole and dremeled the under side to slide into the crankcase location,
works perfectly!
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mbg6siec4TA/X0wKUdOQFBI/AAAAAAAACGY/-z0daLFDRoUlXme80F9gSDXo1_7GpGlBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/clutch-cable.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BIssjfUl3Vc/X0wKT_TjMhI/AAAAAAAACGU/DPj6XrDXr2kkNFuVVa9xLlWgxJcKfmgigCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/clutch-cable-holder.jpg)
The clutch push mechanism needed a good clean, and it turned out quite well from all the
insulating crap which was on it there was surprisingly very little rust or corrosion.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zrhVdCvrJAI/X0wJlDac29I/AAAAAAAACGM/f6RCxSbFsQUft7i3NcB5RNorMxV6IKXqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/clutch-push-assembly.jpg)
working towards the timing I got the intake installed on the barrels after some cleaning and de-oxidization of the reed cage. I used a stainless steel dremel brush in a tap handle to clean up the cages.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6nudqNmh54c/X00UDJudTjI/AAAAAAAACG0/b1YZI8ekRS4xTCoIp70uSzp1-01zJwlEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1598886918075944-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5WKM6NRJwzA/X00UBLcfKdI/AAAAAAAACGw/RWwa8YtyOPIZh5ZFYQtDy45ECypniE2UACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1598886909598728-1.png)
Installed the pistons and barrels. These were vapour blasted a few years ago and still looking great (after being wrapped in brown paper and stored under the bed)
The pistons are "speed" branded and marked for 250DX. 2 rings with the bottom ring slightly thicker than the top, I cant find any info about them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gn5Sd2ej1h4/X00T_Due_lI/AAAAAAAACGs/KnKtnlMdfXUI4QgE9nfBKe4ctDYas5OowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1598886902257746-2.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g6bWduAnVTk/X00T9MA0IeI/AAAAAAAACGo/5eO3eMFJlzsCTKU1QY0SnOWXdnun6Ue5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1598886891689538-3.png)
Small update while waiting for parts, I fitted a different Aprilia front caliper (ive a few of them with new seals) as I didnt feel the red didnt suit the dull gold of the rear. I made up a new Goodridge braided line with stainless banjos. I was short a stainless banjo bolt with the right thread pitch so fitted an old one anyway.
Got the reservoir relocated for a better pipe connection to the master cylinder with new clips.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JpZqKxwjMSY/X1KsUgO1zHI/AAAAAAAACH8/gFua9Dtr8UggjUTmAqI-SSa1bFdBDcIEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599253582660813-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bYOz0Hjk3-o/X1KsTMXJv7I/AAAAAAAACH4/RQiDhR-BbK8shyUpUUvM_11Vze7ABRZUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599253574735440-1.png)
Im using a standard YPVS F2 airbox but an issue has arisen and I see a problem ahead connecting the carbs to the airbox rubbers.
The carb to cylinder inlet rubbers dont line up with the airbox rubbers, hopefully there is enough play in the rubbers to make everything connect.
I need to setup the carbs after the ultrasonic clean and rebuild the had recently.
Im thinking I may have to get an angled reed block spacer made up to correct the angle of the carb?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mn6cdlPeOeg/X1UgzC7B1VI/AAAAAAAACIk/_2eHYtKVaLwHsROoEDRXyM3YYn1bTbluQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599414469573743-0.png)
apologies for jumping over and back on various parts of the build.
I received the bearing retaining collar last week and needed to pick up a
29mm socket for the clutch centre nut. I was hoping to get the clutch
basket installed last night but proceedings were halted fairly swiftly.
When the centre nut is torqued to 60nm the clutch is fully locked up,
nothing will turn (easily) the inner basket will turn seperate to the outer
only with a ratchet on it. the two are obviously mated together.
I recon I have all the parts in the right place though....
:umm:
Bearing retaining collar
stepped washer which sits into the above collar
spacer with worm groove
Outer basket
Thrust washer
Inner basket
Domed washer
Nut
the first image below shoes the nut on the shaft, forgot to remove it for the pic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DgqfwXDrSd0/X1aUp8KctOI/AAAAAAAACJI/KSSsYc_hkngiGHnMVIAzjKCvzE2PDNMtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599509643564561-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q6NwGh6Oh8w/X1aUipK9ulI/AAAAAAAACJE/TJGNMBuDd_EH40EdGiuZ7zVUYZeflI5fgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599509635677899-1.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GiWu0tEvMMI/X1aUgT6Oh0I/AAAAAAAACJA/bLemrlGl7kk9viVNglV03l7ZHh0TJBGTACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599509626558411-2.png)
2 things:
yes, try angles spacers or you may rip one of the boots.
there's differences in washers and spacers from earlier to later motors. the earlier motors used the stepped washer behind the basket, the later ones didn't, they were just flat if i recall correctly. .i suspect you have the years crossed somewhere. there are thickness differences. you will need a washer from 74 or 75 i think.
Yes correct, thanks m in sc!
I did a bit of tricking around with it this evening, I think I have the wrong thrust washer.
I recon the correct washer is quite thin.
I can tighten up the nut to 60nm and the centre hub still turns, I going to order a 74/75
thrust washer and see what happens.
Hub with thrust washer fitted behind pushes it out over the splines by quite a bit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kXo6CAFImXU/X1f8mdXmaxI/AAAAAAAACJ8/QEfAXYHjcfQn3uCd2UgDN_0p7Te-T729gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599601812377688-0.png)
Hub without the thrust washer sits flush with the splines,
it seems the nut and dome washer actually tighten up against the splines rather than against the centre hub!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N1PDvRh3cBA/X1f8kqnvDMI/AAAAAAAACJ4/NDiteU1jGaoM15oxx9wkw-jbX0e38AvdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599601805723806-1.png)
Finished the ignition system today by setting the timing and fitting the flywheel followed by fitting and torquing the heads.
The gap betwen the pickup and the ramp on the flywheel is set to 0.016 and the timing set to 1.89mm BTDC.
The heads were fitted and the newely coated red head bolts torqued to 19nm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ORGUsRsvcbk/X10LgnRNhoI/AAAAAAAACLE/zlnJTguKQh81QKPBieo2ra1oVBGVOqVBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599933312173805-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mpgoGnvgN0k/X10Lfo5HSVI/AAAAAAAACLA/bFMbnMeS3mQfLAN0dgRKSZQLcNeBr75ewCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1599933308271084-1.png)
Been tipping along with various little jobs, got the clutch fitted finally. 250LC Microns are now fitted. I had a set of short springs for this so I made some W clips to make up the shortfall of the springs and coated them in red high temp paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BKp_ULStV9M/X2kiWRtCeYI/AAAAAAAACM8/CM5cnwoOAyUtIAte5PMubsiwxvQQ6Wn2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1600725584417164-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gWccPT-rByI/X2kiToWlt2I/AAAAAAAACM4/LFO-TqQKu5UF5XyM-GQ2KcFz-b5JJvvxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1600725579525941-1.png)
recently im feeling like this is a dry build rather than a final build...
This evening I Fitted a new 38T rear sprocket and fitted an old chain to calculate the length of new chain needed, but ran into a few issues previously overlooked or missed.
I really need an 8mm offset front sprocket which will line up with the rear chain on a standard un-shaved carrier and also clear the inner face of the chain tunnel of the swingarm. I was hoping a 4mm offset would work but the chain is too close to the swingarm.
Running the 8mm offset or any offset for that matter creates 2 problems, (a.) the chain will hit or run too close to the exhaust and (b.) the chain and sprocket will be too close or hit the clutch pushrod actuator on the inside of the side case.
Problem (a.) can be over come with a secondary chain roller ?????
Problem (b.) ?????
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3b1FT6c21tM/X2pot_YWlkI/AAAAAAAACNQ/_k8SH75pc084AfxxtbQED-gJtmwrYZiMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1600809141328382-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YoK5vknq9qg/X2pos4QDe5I/AAAAAAAACNM/tC55qzljZM4mSeAcGsS82yZBYXnqYP7vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1600809133999553-1.png)
Would a smaller countershaft sprocket help with the clutch actuator clearance?
Quote from: 85RZwade on September 23, 2020, 10:14:19 AM
Would a smaller countershaft sprocket help with the clutch actuator clearance?
not sure i get it wade?
Well, I assume your chain is running afoul of the clutch actuator axially more so than radially. If you replace that 17-tooth countershaft sprocket with a 16, would the smaller diameter of the chain possibly allow it to clear the actuator?
If not, and assuming you don't want to cut into that lovely swingarm, you could shift the engine over to the left. The engineering never ends.
Hi wade, actually after properly fitting the actuator and side casing with clutch cable engaged/disengaged there is clearance with the sprocket spaced by 8mm!!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UhC4x7jKJrY/X2vBNOUozYI/AAAAAAAACNw/L621pSnPBnsYizkUs9q5_QWkS5M09tNzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1600897307158711-0.png)
im happy enough with that, the only problem i have now is getting an offset sprocket and getting the clean chain run.
:clap: awesome, glad you got it sussed. I'm impressed with your results and anxious to see your finished product. About to tackle the chain run issue myself! :thumbs:
thanks wade, ive ordered an 8mm offset sprocket from vvmracing.com
and a cheap sprung chain roller from ebay to alter the under side chain run,
i will have to make a mounting plate to hold the roller but cannot do that
until it arrives
back to the carbs, finally got around to fitting the 5mm reed block spacers, hopefully this will aid the fitting of the carbs.
The carbs are lined up to get rebuilt after another ultrasonic clean. going to start with standard jets and settings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G0rGYApZJQA/X3TLGnbk-aI/AAAAAAAACOU/3rzAqlPJVMQKyxJvPDcmAwvL-QZfKyj_ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601489685649163-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xJoYI-1bbG8/X3TLE2-jsDI/AAAAAAAACOQ/RQlggbqX_xgsQz-g7mxQDNgUYi17YBI2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601489678784231-1.png)
carbs built with 15mm float heights and 1.5 turns out with the air screw.
fitting the carbs between the rubbers is an absolute - p i t a!
Had to split the airbox to access the rubbers from the inside. I estimate I will have to tinker with cae carbs to change jets etc. so Im not going to be able to deal with the torture of this so im thinking of a different setup!
Y boot and uni pod...
It also means im going to change to a sealed battery and fitting it in a diferent location as the airbox will be removed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-snb1Lhrpxj4/X3ZHncfILZI/AAAAAAAACOo/opQK3XTPlpcPF8d_CtyU1Cls3A_IuLizgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601587095236201-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WADAfwrj8s4/X3ZHlMBtNII/AAAAAAAACOk/XRJiAyEO3tcV-vfbhcbVHpigemFCuGk9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601587087195715-1.png)
so here is what im planning for tomorrows session.
im gonna modify the airbox by cutting the front panel and re-installing the panel 180° so the airbox to carb rubbers line up.
I estimate a difference in height of 12.5mm.
By rotating the pice cutout there will be no need for infill pieces. I can either plastic weld the panel in or I can use epoxy!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vvfTGPz7cw8/X3jmDPNEduI/AAAAAAAACPM/-YODvA4PJkgTLpWtoLeZAaFFl5Pr3f3PACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601758727973516-0.png)
I suggest ABS plumbing cement if it is made of the same plastic 90% of Japanese bikes use. Use the clear (Oatey is our USA producer) cleaner and the black ABS cement (can be made by soaking chips in acetone/MEK for a week or so). Should be as strong as the original. I dobt epoxy as a long-term adhesive. The ABS actually welds the plastic.
thanks pidjones, I got it sorted today !
it turned out ok, i cut the front panel, rotated it 180° and plastic welded it back into place using off-cuts from an old MTB mudguard and a soldering iron!
i took a gamble and left a bit of space between the bottom of the air box and the bottom of the rubber mount to enable fuel to collect if it has to.
anyway carbs mounted and the welds didnt break!
The 5mm reedblock spacers mean I need to remove the airbox to get the carbs out and especially to get them back on when the time comes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nBnOHU5fYjE/X3n1R8tBYTI/AAAAAAAACPw/mRWplQC2BzcHxeMYiUpnt5MuJ_T3MfkUACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601828158446495-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TBKlALQJa70/X3n1PT-VaZI/AAAAAAAACPs/Wo7xBUrTAT8tqUomcKjqZ5_1yVhUBz4GQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601828149867817-1.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VfCVsnzutKI/X3n1NEJ62pI/AAAAAAAACPo/Leqr4TZHhnAwxk5HcVYeXT44nUw9kkT5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1601828141816845-2.png)
last night i made up some swingarm bobbins after getting a set of hooks for the stand.
I was using the flat pads but the bike kept slipping off them. made some spacers too to minimise scratching the swinger
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OGvtxPIfCT8/X34Trg742-I/AAAAAAAACQY/iHiqSdUP7q4zNzeXRBJX12ujPKhjiB4fQCLcBGAsYHQ/s280/1602098089007748-0.png)
new clutch cable holder fab'd up last night
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nKWL-M2q9NU/X39koPK-ROI/AAAAAAAACQo/e-FzccS-zwkeA73Ecg8SbWr5sdeHSJDRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1602184347896200-0.png)
:clap: on
Thanks Czakky
Fitted a new chain roller on a 6mm aluminium plate and fixed to the rear of the rearset mounting bolts. Its fixed in position rather than a spring loaded idea.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zLTx1RzpikQ/X4eASmL7GiI/AAAAAAAACRg/z7sEgszrXtUs4P4516sJLHBJA0hySkV4ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1602715717969079-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Oaum_BseXgI/X4eARXAlf2I/AAAAAAAACRc/pzPcsgn_zoUPWqfrcFZuwTcO2DRmrM-AwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1602715711023787-1.png)
I decided to address the fuel tank yesterday.
There were holes around the fuel tap which obviously had to be sorted.
I removed all the paint and tapped in around each hole to create a well
for the solder which I used to gather and plug the hole.
I used flux core solder, seems to have worked well.
Next step now is to remove the liner and replace with a new Caswell one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IRpiaBaePHM/X5R6w7F34vI/AAAAAAAACSI/VI2BQUHfLPc4hzBHUXz8eF40z__ety62QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1603566269938984-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sx69aS_4fH0/X5R6vBeT8CI/AAAAAAAACSE/1kUe8QZgqekbO4KHW-e43ZAusKDT5c8gQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1603566262685200-1.png)
Today I started with the tank liner removal and preperation for the new liner to go in.
I used an offcut of a wheel tube and a small offcut of aluminium plate to blank off the fuel tap hole.
Then the Caswell liner removal solution went in to disolve the old liner, I guess the solution is MEK or cellulose, it seems to have done the job. Before emptying the chemical out I threw in 20 wood screws to loosen up any stubborn debris, after a good shake a small pinhole appeared and was literally covered with paint so a little bit more of soldering to be done.
Before that happens Ill rinse out the tank with soapy water to expell the chemical vapours. Thats for tomorrow though.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mf7rgtvFr9w/X5W63K01ffI/AAAAAAAACSY/RDc6NssVCeMMGxML99s4w4gDNbTa3YFRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1603648204960823-0.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sA1JndH8AgY/X5W6ylrORrI/AAAAAAAACSU/eBlpn44NXlQJuJPdZDhiX4ARn3moFVMNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1603648169212398-1.png)