My good friend Frank B came over day before yesterday and we started prepping our TM32s for installation. We used 3 MM OD brass tubing sourced from McMaster Carr for the oil lines and a 7/64 (2.7 MM) drill bit. We had to ream the holes just a bit and then a drop of red loctite and Bob's your Uncle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xjP6bbkk/20210117_170410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HjVwqn9H)
:clap:
Way to join the TM32 club!
Where are you starting with jetting?
H1 or H2?
RD350
Is the OD the same as the OEM RD350 VM28 carb at the reed (intake/engine side)?
No had to buy new intakes. It is 39 MM.
I put TM34's on my RZ Banshee 421 motor, and had to lean the needle jets down a few steps.
Maybe it is just me, but getting the cable back into the slide is a major PIA. That spring drove me bonkers.
Quote from: rodneya on January 19, 2021, 05:04:32 PM
Maybe it is just me, but getting the cable back into the slide is a major PIA. That spring drove me bonkers.
there's def a method, when you get used to it, it gets easy
One word. Forceps. Game changer for sure, was recommended by a forum member.
Quote from: Czakky on January 19, 2021, 07:31:32 PM
One word. Forceps. Game changer for sure, was recommended by a forum member.
Gonna have to try that next time.
Quote from: Czakky on January 19, 2021, 07:31:32 PM
One word. Forceps. Game changer for sure, was recommended by a forum member.
Hemostats work great to compress and hold the spring while you get the cable and plastic jammy situated.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0625/6381/products/instruments-hemostat-curved-5-5-1_2000x_5feed2c6-cc0a-4b6a-8d9a-94829fa1e1e6_2048x.jpg)
Playtime was limited today. I got one side disassembled and the reed block cleaned up. Did a quick mock up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3NJdtVnM/20210119-153848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLkS6hrN)
It fills the hole up. Air filters will be close...
Quote from: pdxjim on January 19, 2021, 08:31:20 PM
Quote from: Czakky on January 19, 2021, 07:31:32 PM
One word. Forceps. Game changer for sure, was recommended by a forum member.
Hemostats work great to compress and hold the spring while you get the cable and plastic jammy situated.
That's what I meant
I got initial jetting specs from M in SC ( Thanks Mark!!) and ordered the brass from Niche Cycle.
Main 230
Pilot 40
Stock needle
P6 needle jets
Clip will be in the middle and air screws initially at 1.5
I also ordered some P4s and received a set of TM28 slide springs. The latter should help with the throttle effort and save my old wrist.
:clap: new shiny bits look nice tucked in there :bacon:
Thanks! I won't have time to continue until my next 3 day break that starts this coming Sunday.
I have TM34's on my H2. I cut the springs just a bit to make them easier to work with.
href="https://imgbox.com/lzR8myDJ" target="_blank">(https://images2.imgbox.com/9d/9c/lzR8myDJ_o.jpg)</a>
Modified reeds and cages courtesy of M in SC. Thanks Mark. I got them cleaned up. It was 28 degrees in the shop today so I gave up for today. Reassembly and install to follow.
glad you can use them . cages are opened up to match the upp intakes.
<a href="https://imgbox.com/j5f7GQzB" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/c8/6d/j5f7GQzB_t.jpg)</a> <a href="https://imgbox.com/tnm34lEI" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/97/4f/tnm34lEI_t.jpg)</a> <a
I got the reeds and intakes installed this morning after I got done feeding the cows. The LH carb clears the case barely. The float bowl main jet cap grazes the stator wire bundle but I was able to get a little slack and it too now clears.
YES...
(http://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/MISC-BS/PROPER.gif)
It's tight in there! I've got like 1mm clearance.
What are you using for filters?
6 inch UNI 15 degree angle.
<a href="https://imgbox.com/1xrAwgaK" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/dc/6c/1xrAwgaK_t.jpg)</a>
Got all the brass swapped over and finnagled the cables into the slides with the TM28 springs and my mixed up years of cables are too long. I have some other options to get the length right that I will work on tomorrow weather and time permitting. They are tight in there but they aren't rubbing anywhere. I also have another set of lower cables that I think are shorter. More to follow.
<a href="https://imgbox.com/2QL6zRnd" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/ec/4f/2QL6zRnd_t.jpg)</a> <a href="https://imgbox.com/HDZWHbU5" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/84/b4/HDZWHbU5_t.jpg)</a>
I had to shorten the stock carb angle adjuster by the width of the original brass flange to get the length right. The imprint from the flange made a perfect reference mark. Deburring the newly cut barrel took a little while. I ended up rolling some emery cloth up and working it inside. All that is left is making a new RH oil line as the existing is too short with the increased set back from the larger intake and installing the crossover and fuel lines. Initial sync is done. Going to set up my auxiliary fuel source for run up later in the week hopefully.
https://sendvid.com/i63u1mc7
bwaaaap! :clap:
btw you can ditch pink vent lines. ive never pissed out of my vents on the tms.
Cool. I will gladly remove them.
:dawg:
kinda like:
https://sendvid.com/fd3bwg59
Started on 3rd kick, ran and idled. Synch appears good. Playtime over for this week. Back to work tomorrow. The video was actually the 1st restart not 1st actual start. It revs significantly quicker.
<a href="https://imgbox.com/khnSsUOY" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/09/60/khnSsUOY_t.jpg)</a> <a href="https://imgbox.com/2bxjWgz6" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/4e/4a/2bxjWgz6_t.jpg)</a>
The air filters are quite the challenge to wrestle into position. But they do fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Z0q5d1z/20210226-115034.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDxp98Fq)
Fed the cows and spent a few minutes on the RD. All back together. Air filters and tank installed. This going to work shit is interfering with my wrenching/ jetting time. I hope to be able to do an initial run up and down the road tomorrow after chores on the farm and before work. Surprisingly I can reach both enrichener knobs without too much grief.
I have TM34's which are pretty much the same carb body, and I have no problems reaching both choke knobs even with gloves on.
Now that its warming up a bit I may get motivated to actually install the airfilter I bought to get away from squishing the pods in between the frame tubes.
Do you have a picture of your filter? I would love to see it.
I got this on Ebay from ramair in the UK. Mine is the 65mm internal height option. there are thicker and thinner versions.
The foam part has a mesh inside for support that may need to be shaped to go around the frame tubes.
Just need to cut two holes for the carbs through the base plate and decide how I want to mount them to the carb.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAMAIR-Carb-Bolt-On-Air-Filters-With-Blank-Baseplate-65mm-Internal-Height-/271362345303?hash=item3f2e74c957 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAMAIR-Carb-Bolt-On-Air-Filters-With-Blank-Baseplate-65mm-Internal-Height-/271362345303?hash=item3f2e74c957)
Interesting. Thank you :patriot:
:popcorn2:
1st jetting run idles perfect. Pulls off great. Any throttle past 1/4 turn and it is like you shut the ignition off. Very rich. Changed to the P4 needle jets and managed to get it to pull through and come up on the pipe once on 2nd jetting run before motor was fully warmed up. Then it fouled the right hand plug. So I am ordering P2 and P0 needle jets. I am getting more proficient at pulling them off and putting them on. I will move the needle to the leanest position while I wait on parts to see if that will make it rideable. It is in the middle now. Thanks to M in SC for your guidance as always.
Further research revealed that these carbs come with 5FP1-7 needles stock so
I ordered a set of those as well.
The P0s were too lean for me. P2s are pretty close, I tried a tiny bit leaner needle it helped. I think I'm at 240 mains and 35(?) pilots.
I am hoping the needles will fix it. The P0s weren't available at Niche Cycle so I ended up ordering just the P2s and the stock needles. Parts should be here by my next break. Initially my plan is to change out the needles and install a fresh set of plugs and give it a try.
fyi, you can test with autolite 4092s if you think you're going to kill them on jetting runs. cheap and available.
Yep
Per your recommendation I have been using them for years. Thanks Mark!!
I've got a set of P0s too if you want to try them.
Pay for shipping if they work just make a donation to the forum.
Thanks for the kind offer. I will let you know.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MpkmQSdz/20210307-161358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRNM6C6W)
Thank God for Hemostats. They are a blessing for those of us who don't have the 3 or 4 dwarf hands required to keep all the pieces in place and hold the spring and plastic retainer back. Hopefully if all goes well tomorrow I can attempt another jetting run. I have found for needle swap or changing clip position it is easier to take the screws out of the slides and leave the cable connected rather than the hassle involved with trying to hook the cables back into the slots.
After I inspected everything and could not figure out why it kept fouling the RH plug I called my good friend Frank B. After I chased my tail pulling the RH carb apart and we swapped in a spare ignition coil we did a compression test. It read 118 on the left and 60 on the right. So we pulled off the RH cylinder. Looks like one too many 9000 plus RPM shifts to me. Top ring broke and got spit out best we can figure. I ran a magnet around in the crank well and we inspected everything. No damage to the head or top of the piston. Minimal damage to the cylinder. Shook the pipe and nothing is rattling around in it either.
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/c5/4b/XEaBlSv7_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/XEaBlSv7) (https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/bb/6d/F5WsUuDO_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/F5WsUuDO) (https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/70/96/QQejz3aV_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/QQejz3aV) (https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/79/c6/tgdINGWy_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/tgdINGWy) (https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/51/e1/NFlTWgzU_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/NFlTWgzU)
The picture program uploaded the pictures in reverse order
At any rate I have a spare top nearly new top end given to me years ago by Frank and we gave it a bath and put it back together. (Luckily I also keep a gasket set on hand) Started and ran perfect on the 2nd kick. Thanks Frank B for all the help and M in SC for the technical guidance. I will retorque the heads and hopefully run it up and down the road tomorrow.
Each head bolt took 1/8 turn after setting all night. Started 2nd kick. Idles perfect at 1500. Took it on a couple runs. No leaks. Runs pretty good. Light 4 stroking just past 1/4. throttle. Air screws at 1.75. Clip in middle. Plugs are dark a hint of gray. Can't tell really didn't run long or hard enough and we oiled the cylinders and used cleaned plugs not new. Video uploading. It revs significantly quicker. Overall quite smooth. I think it is still rich in the middle but not much.
https://youtu.be/L4C_jFLX548
Why do you think 9000 rpm shifts would break the ring?
Kinda sucks when you spend ages chasing your tail. Been there, done that too many times.
Probably more like 9500 or a 10 grand. I have run it pretty hard from time to time. Those pipes will let it rev past 10.
Where you at for jetting?
230 main
40 pilot
P4 needle jet
5fP17 needle set in middle
Air screws at 1.75 turns.
After consulting with M in SC and his review of the video I will be richening the needle 1 clip position and trying again. It runs significantly better and throttle response is way better than my 46 year old stock VM28s.
:clap:
Nearly there now I think. Went up to 240 on mains and it pulls harder. One rich on the needle made the middle worse. So now we will go one lean on the needle as it was 4 stroking at 1/2 throttle with the clip in the middle. Thanks M in SC for the guidance. Plug chops will follow with the one set of 4092s I was able to get locally.
Tim, has that engine had any port work done? I saw the modified reed cages, but I'm curious if any other intake mods are contributing to your success with the bigger carbs. Also, I thought you'd like this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/26vKDyMf/image.jpg)
Nice!!
No the engine is completely stock. It also has a Vintage Smoke ignition installed and timed by M in SC and Moto Carerra Millennium GP chambers. It ran really good with the stock carbs and even running higher than stock gearing 15/39 it will still pick up the front wheel in 1st and 2nd. Like everyone else I want more power. I am very impressed with the 32s. It revs significantly quicker and there is definitely more power. I will be moving the clip to 1 lean the next time I get a chance to work on it, possibly tomorrow before work.
Your real close to where I'm at w/ my TM32s. I'm leaner on the pilot and emulsion tubes. I've also got HPI ignition and porting, intakes and probably less gnarly pipes.
https://sendvid.com/39elkvrr?secret=769287c3-e80a-4b5b-97ed-a1dd87e0e312
Moved clip to one lean. Back together. Test ride tomorrow. Before when starting I had to be quick to get enricheners off to avoid plug fouling. Now you have to leave them engaged until engine starts to slow down a bit and then push them in. Getting closer.
Pretty sure we are there. Going to go up to 250 on the main jet to see if it will pull it. Middle is perfect now. Opened air screws to 1.75 after 1st run and idle and pull off are better. Starts 1st kick cold enrichener on. Plug chop coffee and creme near electrode end and lighter further up. 77 degrees here today. 93 unleaded fuel. Video later. Thanks Frank B and M in SC.
:metal: :clap: :cheerleader:
https://youtu.be/BOS18OmiJJU
Looks like you have it dialed in now Tim- that bike rips!! :clap: :celebrate:
The front end on mine doesn't come up that easy! I can't wait to get mine out!
Thanks! I hope to get back out to the shop this afternoon
The good news is it pulled the 250s and runs great. Then 5 miles from home I noted a miss in the engine when turning on the turn signal and barely made it home. Battery was reading 8 volts DC. I hate electrical trouble shooting.
Sounds like its time for a Vape or HPI
I wish... I have a couple complete spare charging systems. Hopefully I can get it fixed without more expense. Deals Gap is coming up so my play money is being saved for that.
<a href="https://imgbox.com/EBsKgO5u" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/bd/94/EBsKgO5u_t.jpg)</a> <a href="https://imgbox.com/T3pGG6k7" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/46/c6/T3pGG6k7_t.jpg)</a> <a href="https://imgbox.com/Z0WZLejJ" target="_blank">(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/ea/24/Z0WZLejJ_t.jpg)</a>
Old alternator brushes out. Good used brushes from one of my parts stators in. 13.65 volts with a fully charged battery lights off. 14.5 to 15.5 volts with lights on high beam, turn signals and brake lights on. 240 main jet plug chop. Thanks M in SC for the guidance and tutelage as always. It pulls harder with the 250s. Waiting on exhaust gaskets for the leaking chamber flanges to arrive from Economy Cycle as the RH cylinder is seeping. I reused the exhaust gaskets from the previous top end ( they were the only gaskets I didn't have).
I am pleased to report the TM32s performed very well at Deals Gap after we went all the way lean on the needles per M in SC after he test rode It for me. It likes the air screws at 1.75 turns out. I checked the fuel consumption on back to back refuels and was shocked to find I am getting 40 miles per gallon. This was a mix of Dragon Runs and long stints of high speed stuff while running hard on the 28 to Fontana, 143 across to 129 loop and back to the resort. There is 603 feet difference in elevation from Deals Gap to Front Royal, VA, Deals Gap being 1171 and Front Royal being 568 respectively. The best I ever got with the stock VM28s was about 30. Surprisingly upon my return to VA I didn't have to change anything. I thought it would be lean but it pulls smooth throughout the range. The weather here has warmed up significantly and I am certain that is a factor.