Picked this JDM RD350LC up a few weeks ago.
Stay tuned for detailed build thread.
(https://i.ibb.co/L5xyFd2/ED11-E597-2985-40-AE-B31-F-DAE864-BFC7-AC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/16rNgGw)
(https://i.ibb.co/L6qh3q8/5436232-A-F179-4701-BA27-3606136-EAC28.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RPM4qM9)
Damn Jim!
Nice! Are you going to do a restoration or a resto-mod?
Cool
Sweet!
Quote from: SoCal250 on February 10, 2019, 06:50:20 PM
Nice! Are you going to do a restoration or a resto-mod?
Well, I'm usually a resto-mod kinda guy.
That said, this RD350LC is so complete, I'm thinking to go full resto on this one. Everything is still here ... centerstand, turn signals, pristine stock exhaust, etc.
The only thing NOT STOCK is the paint. Even tho it's in great shape, the stripes are way off parallel, which I cain't stand. Will likely go stock JDM '81 RZ350 paint when I can afford it.
If it was originally white with blue stripes I'd go with that, especially since it's all intact.
Nice score!
Nice score.
What rock did you find that under??
Quote from: 2strokesforever on February 13, 2019, 10:36:57 PM
Nice score.
What rock did you find that under??
It was literally less than a mile from my house.
I had just got done restomodding a KH400 triple a month or two ago. My 2T enthusiast buddy Naveen asked me about it, and I said "Yeah, it's done ... turned out nice, but I'm gonna sell it and try to find an RZ". He says "Oh, I know where one is ... this guy comes into the store (he's a cashier at Trader Joe's) that has one he wants to sell, right up the street ... I'll send you some pics". He sends the pics and I can see it's an LC not an RZ so I decide to pass.
As my search for an RZ gets a bit more desperate, I start thinking about the LC again. After bleeding the brakes on my KTM 300, i take it for a shakedown ride past the LC guy's house and he just happens to be standing out front. I've never met the guy before, so I introduce myself and inquire about the bike. He says "Dude, your timing couldn't be better. I need to be out of this house tomorrow, and I got nowhere to put the LC until I move into my new place on the 1st".
So we go thru the usual song n' dance, and settle on a (very nice) price that we are both satisfied with and now the bike is in my garage.
Evidently it was meant to be.
Thats awesome. :clap:
I also think that I end up with the stuff I do just because of timing, weird how the world works like that.
Been kinda dry here in the midwest for older 2ts. Im jelly.
Quote from: 2strokesforever on February 14, 2019, 10:30:53 PM
Thats awesome. :clap:
I also think that I end up with the stuff I do just because of timing, weird how the world works like that.
Been kinda dry here in the midwest for older 2ts. Im jelly.
I'm jealous of your 3XV.
I had a 91 R model for a few years but let it go.
So wishing I had held onto it and done SP porting, pipes and if and gotten more power out of it.
Quote from: pdxjim on February 14, 2019, 11:40:16 PM
Quote from: 2strokesforever on February 14, 2019, 10:30:53 PM
Thats awesome. :clap:
I also think that I end up with the stuff I do just because of timing, weird how the world works like that.
Been kinda dry here in the midwest for older 2ts. Im jelly.
I'm jealous of your 3XV.
I had a 91 R model for a few years but let it go.
So wishing I had held onto it and done SP porting, pipes and if and gotten more power out of it.
I pretty much had to do a full resto on it. It was pretty beat up. I will attest to the power and it is blistering, once you get off the line. The SP gear box is a little over kill for the road with the tall first and second gears.
Current state of things:
Got the LC running (barely).
Wouldn't run on the carbs, but would fire off carb cleaner down the carb bore, or down the spark plug holes. I'm assuming the pilot circuits are blocked (even after many rotations thru the Berryman's and ultrasonic cleaner). Stands to reason, as the carbs were full of nasty varnish. Slide, float valve and choke plunger were all way stuck in the left carb and needed lots of heat and coaxing to come unglued. I'll try a bit more cleaning and dig out the brass balls, etc, but may just pick up a new set of PWK28's and be done with it. Will likely also do Vforce3 v384a reeds and pipes and keep the airbox.
(https://i.ibb.co/HVKqjYw/A9-C00-B77-8-D8-D-4946-93-E9-6-C0046-D33576.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TkwtsRj)
As suspected, crank seals are fried, so engine is out and in the basement for disassembly. Looks like it suffered a seize at some time in the past, as one of the pistons is pretty smeary and shows some heavy damage at the intake side. Crank will head north across the big river to GRA400C for rebuild. Not sure what to do with the cyls/head. A light tune (head skim, lite port) sounds good but not sure who to send it to here in the States. The best LC tuners are in the UK and shipping back and forth would be $$$$$. Plus, these things are already real peaky, so whatever happens, I'll be looking for more midrange.
(https://i.ibb.co/8DFhBwX/D80-BEE04-EA08-4-C6-B-BFA0-2-E1-B3-F649-B79.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MDqXhH9)
Chassis will likely stay stock. These are (of course) super rare here (especially the 4U0) so staying stock will be best value. Got someone lined up to do the stock JDM blue stripe paint when $ allows. Just gonna clean everything up and throw on a set of tires and ss brakelines and call it good for now.
Anyway, gonna be slow going until the KH400 sells, but that's where I'm at.
Ugh. Got front calipers off last night.
Pistons are completely roached, so will likely just throw the calipers in a box and fit a pair of R1/R6 blue spots with NK Racing adaptors.
Got my cases back from the vapor blasters. The shop http://motor-sports-eng.com/vapor.html (http://motor-sports-eng.com/vapor.html) is a few miles from my house, and charges $75/hr for vapor blasting. Said it took 45 mins for this beautiful finish, and was ready the same day I dropped them off. They even gave me 15mins credit toward my next session. They'll be getting my forks and footrest hangers eventually. :clap:
(https://i.ibb.co/ySVR8tf/B40-F29-DB-BCE5-4-FFB-83-CF-0038-D3271476.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2N56jxn)
Got my rebuilt crank back from Garrett GRA400C Amner. Replacement center section, rods and bearings from Yambits.
Garrett does fantastic work! Great prices and super fast turnaround. He did a great job on my KH400 crank as well. :clap: :clap:
(https://i.ibb.co/grwW3GK/3-A555483-795-D-47-DD-9-DE3-5583372-D57-E0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qD9gdzQ)
Amazing job on the blasting, I wish someone around here would offer the service.
sweet! looks great.
yeah, those balls need to come out for cleaning, no matter what you clean them with on the carbs. or fit some 'aircooled' 28's
id suggest a zeeltronic to control the timing a bit, will def help with the midrange, especially with ported LC cyls. Ive done a few bikes with lc topends as you know, and that was the biggest thing that helped the mids.
Quote from: m in sc on March 26, 2019, 10:07:15 AM
sweet! looks great.
yeah, those balls need to come out for cleaning, no matter what you clean them with on the carbs. or fit some 'aircooled' 28's
id suggest a zeeltronic to control the timing a bit, will def help with the midrange, especially with ported LC cyls. Ive done a few bikes with lc topends as you know, and that was the biggest thing that helped the mids.
Do you fit set screws in place of the ballz after cleaning? Do they need to be brass?
What's the deel with the Zeel? There are three separate components. Do I need all three for the basic kit?
you can tap them to m4 and fit brass plugs. just short tap them so they 'stop' in place. should only need one box for the zeel, ive run 3 of em on bikes.
Quote from: m in sc on March 26, 2019, 01:09:11 PM
you can tap them to m4 and fit brass plugs. just short tap them so they 'stop' in place. should only need one box for the zeel, ive run 3 of em on bikes.
So, for set curves, do I just use the Zeel CDI box (CDI-RD7) and everything else stays stock?
(http://www.zeeltronic.com/images/CDI-RD7_250.png)
... and if I want programmable, upgrade to VCDI-04 with the handheld programmer?
(http://www.zeeltronic.com/images/vcdi-04_3_150.png)
YES. USE THE 04
That's a nice looking bike - and the blasting result makes me want to get mine done - just need to find someone who does that in Brisbane.
Very slick.
Quote from: boars on March 28, 2019, 02:46:10 AM
That's a nice looking bike - and the blasting result makes me want to get mine done - just need to find someone who does that in Brisbane.
Very slick.
Look on the OZVMX forum & you'll find some recommendations for vapour blasting in the Brisbane area. Getting to be go to finish on dirt bikes as well because as well as looking like new it seems to be very stain resistant unlike bead blasting
Quote from: tony27 on April 01, 2019, 11:19:52 PM
Quote from: boars on March 28, 2019, 02:46:10 AM
That's a nice looking bike - and the blasting result makes me want to get mine done - just need to find someone who does that in Brisbane.
Very slick.
Look on the OZVMX forum & you'll find some recommendations for vapour blasting in the Brisbane area. Getting to be go to finish on dirt bikes as well because as well as looking like new it seems to be very stain resistant unlike bead blasting
It's true! The VB process peens the surface of cast ally and seals the pores. Dry glass beads do the opposite.
Progress report:
Bottom end is complete and back together. New clutch, new Garrett crank, new rods, etc. Buuuut ... I'm gonna crack it open and replace the (allegedly shitty) Yambits pattern crank seals with genuine Yamaha. Sidecovers have been blasted and are ready for paint.
Cylinders and heads are on the way to Chuck for skim/squish/o-rings and "update porting" and intake mod for Vforce yz85 reeds
Reeds, and intake boots are here. pwk28s should be here tomorrow. ProX pistons on order.
R1 blue spots are here. Adapters from NK Racing I. The UK on order. Will get brake lines made next week here in town.
Father's Day saw me wrestling the BT45s on, but bead is refusing to seat all the way on both wheels. Pumped up to 50psi and sitting in the sun and beating the sh!t out of em with a mallet but no luck.
Anyone know a better way?
not a 100 rear tire huh...
Let the tyres back down ,push them off the bead and put some tyre soap onto the rims to lube this should help them seat correctly
Custom aluminum 520 LC sprox from PBI here in Portland.
Unfortunately not an "off the shelf " item, no matter where you look.
(https://i.ibb.co/164JWgj/CB04173-D-216-F-44-E5-9-F13-543795-A5-F386.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/9yx4jxH/B58-E6-BE7-3-BB3-4741-AB66-2-CE0428-B39-C6.jpg)
Money goes out, parts come in.
(https://i.ibb.co/mzmWdt6/D5-A4-D8-A4-1-B5-E-4425-8-F4-E-164955-EBAADD.jpg)
New repop LC tank, clutch pusher rod, clutch holder tool, footrest rubbers, LC front master rebuild kit and lever, RZ crossover tube and clips ... etc.
... and bottom end is back together again after swapping out the Yambits crank seals for genuine Yamaha ones. FYI, THEY ARE THE SAME FCUKING SEALS!!!.
Cyls an head are on the other side of the country getting Supertuned.
(https://i.ibb.co/FJY0jJq/29-AC2-F23-0-F5-B-444-A-A9-CF-5-F138-D2698-A4.jpg)
Will be working on painting sidecovers this week.
(https://i.ibb.co/jDhpB8w/240-D5-C8-C-2890-4922-BD82-D5-C0-E9-D83903.jpg)
Moving forward at a good pace. Rock on and keep at it! :metal:
Looking good Jim. Lots of pretty new bits! :cheerleader:
Time to dig this old thread back up ...
Got a new pair of cylinders in the works. Dropped them off at the vapor blaster's today and picked up the last batch of stuff they did for me. Fork lowers, NK Racing caliper adapters, and footrest hangers.
(https://i.ibb.co/X3ZgMG8/4-E9-A16-DC-3660-41-CF-9457-A821737-C0076.jpg)
Waiting on fork seals to show up ... gotta order a set of steering bearings, then the front end can go back together.
As always, big thanks to Garrett for all the help. Looks like I may be running one of the first sets of his new pipes!
Stoked to be making some forward progress again!!!
Thanks Jim! Hope to have them o ringed tomorrow and possibly open up intakes for v force. We will see how the day goes.
Garrett
Got Jim's cylinders decked and o ringed.
(https://i.ibb.co/f8N5r5v/816953-CF-F398-4-E99-A7-C6-B5-A83-A0-AB55-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tZ2tYtX)
Making progress. Finally painted the sidecovers with PJ1 "Engine and case" paint. Baking them on the backyard grill:
(https://i.ibb.co/MVmxWTN/FB990-DCA-D946-4599-B27-D-CE92-F8-A4-B537.jpg)
Front end is back together. While I'm waiting on engine parts, I'm going thru the chassis and cleaning and painting as I go. Foot controls are completely refurbed, frame and subframe, signals, switchgear, etc.
(https://i.ibb.co/g9xn1rY/BE9582-B5-CB12-4989-B752-90-B67-DF3-A376.jpg)
Cyls are in SoCal with EE. Chassis off to Garrett after the holidays to fit his pipes :whoop:
Thinking of just rattle canning the bodywork white until I can afford a proper paint job.
Secret spy pic from Garrett.
Pretty fcuking stoked on the way these are turning out!
(https://i.ibb.co/Mh61j0S/D603-AD11-341-D-489-A-AACA-816-D9-F5-AAE27.jpg)
I'll be picking the bike up from him next week and will post up detail pics etc.
The weld detail progress pics he's sent over so far look fantastic!
... and YES, THEY ARE STAINLESS!!!!!! :metal:
Yes that's the wife in the background checking quality control.
It's been a pleasure working on this bike. Yamaha did a fantastic job with the kickstand!
Garrett
wow, that design fits the lc better than any other application ive seen them on. :cheerleader: :toot:
Quote from: m in sc on June 20, 2020, 07:30:14 AM
wow, that design fits the lc better than any other application ive seen them on. :cheerleader: :toot:
Yeah! You'll notice on most all other sets of Millenniums they've been cut n shut where the head pipe meets the belly. These fit perfect without being clocked and hug the footrest hanger like they were stamped out with the LC in mind
I honestly think they will fit an rz just as well as the mounting points are so identical you will not be able to use the belly pan though. I do have an rz so it will be nice to fit them. It was nice not having to cut and twist them.
Garrett
i bet. sweet. :clap:
Those look great! They tuck in nicely. And SS too :nana:
Quote from: pdxjim on June 20, 2020, 02:14:02 PM
Quote from: m in sc on June 20, 2020, 07:30:14 AM
wow, that design fits the lc better than any other application ive seen them on. :cheerleader: :toot:
Yeah! You'll notice on most all other sets of Millenniums they've been cut n shut where the head pipe meets the belly. These fit perfect without being clocked and hug the footrest hanger like they were stamped out with the LC in mind
ih yes, im liking those pipes, love how the hug the underside of the hangers,
lovely fit and idea.
Well ... after way too much time pushed in the back corner of the garage, I'm trying to get motivated to get back after the LC.
I have almost everything I need, just need a few basic parts and assembly.
Will focus on getting in running now as hearing this sweet beast fire up will push me on toward the finish line :metal:
(https://i.ibb.co/23GW73V/AA9-C6-A0-C-25-C9-412-A-9848-3-FDC0-C043733.jpg)
:celebrate: yes, yes! Today is a great day for bolting a bike together. Sure be cool to start it up and let it eat.
Those bellies look huge on those pipes. Looks like fun.
if you have the parts it should be no probs to get back into it.
Such a cool bike are the LC
Yup.
Got most of the front end, brakelines, clocks, controls, etc back on last couple of nights.
Immediate needs to get running:
Throttle tube, throttle cable, mod PWK carb tops to suit
Carb oil line fittings
Fuel tap/petcock
UNI filters
Clutch cable
The rest is just assembly.
(https://i.ibb.co/pZcdDMs/0-FEE599-D-338-E-41-E0-880-B-C5-E883-C2-D419.jpg)
Making progress and not far off from making smoke.
Looks Great :righteous: :righteous:
very nice indeed. :clap:
The PWKs look happy in their new home, and, once again, those PIPES! Beautiful. I like the blue spots, too.
I'm like a kid on xmas eve!
Just waiting on a Motion Pro IV style fuel bottle and UNI filters.
If all goes to plan, I should be able to fire the LC up tomorrow night!
First start. Took me a while to remember the chokes.
Always such a sweet sound.
:metal: Nice! Congrats on the fire-up
Even when you've done all the right steps, it feels good to have it all work.
Congrats! Smooth engine...
You got hear this on Bose speakers.....amazing pipes...
Looks and sounds great!
:whoop: magnificent! It sounds great, you must be feeling pretty chuffed. Can't wait to read about the first test ride!
Congrats- always a great feeling! :metal:
Thank you, Sirs.
Hearing the bike run is always the best motivator to finish. Elephant in the room is the paintwork, and I'm just not sure how to get around this one as it's way too cold to rattlecan out in the garage, and I just bought my season pass for snowboarding, so the wife just rolls her eyes when I ask for funds allottment for a proper pro paint job. :whistle:
This first start up is off a hanging IV style fuel bottle (can also be seen in the background) with 50:1 premix from my KTM (and leaf blower).
(https://i.ibb.co/mRRrrrK/13-DC7-DBD-8-A20-43-F7-96-F1-EE4-CB7-C6-E977.jpg)
After holding the pump full open on tickover to fill the lines, I was left with a big air bubble at the tank line high-point, so I ended up back filling the line using a big 150ml "livestock syringe" from the local farm store. It worked perfectly and was cheap as.
(https://i.ibb.co/D1Tq2q9/0-D0178-E6-EA22-42-EB-A393-2-DDFCD847375.jpg)
Next step is setting idle and balancing the carbs while I wait for the filters.
Setting the idle looks to be a right pain with these janky plastic idle screws and awkward access to the right hand carb.
Well, it got me around the block a few times, and I didn't have to push it home.
I'd consider that a success.
(https://i.ibb.co/S67QZBw/EFA41-F24-2-C58-4407-AD0-B-40-ACFE021893.jpg)
Jetting is off. Lots of clutch slipping needed to get off the line. Will wind in the air screws a bit. Feel good and pulls hard when on the pipe.
Trans is a little.... I dunno what's going, on but I think it's the linkage.
Petcock leaking where it mounts to the tank. Any tricks for this?
Pipes sound awesome but are loud AF.
Quote from: pdxjim on November 27, 2020, 07:24:27 PM
Well, it got me around the block a few times, and I didn't have to push it home.
I'd consider that a success.
(https://i.ibb.co/S67QZBw/EFA41-F24-2-C58-4407-AD0-B-40-ACFE021893.jpg)
Jetting is off. Lots of clutch slipping needed to get off the line. Will wind in the air screws a bit. Feel good and pulls hard when on the pipe.
Trans is a little.... I dunno what's going, on but I think it's the linkage.
Petcock leaking where it mounts to the tank. Any tricks for this?
Pipes sound awesome but are loud AF.
Shifting could be linkage or the eccentric screw adjustment.
I used a cork type fuel resistant gasket material between the tank and petcock to get mine to stop leaking
Does your valve have a gasket or an O-ring? I just received one from HVC that seals against the tank with an O-ring.
Quote from: 85RZwade on November 27, 2020, 09:35:47 PM
Does your valve have a gasket or an O-ring? I just received one from HVC that seals against the tank with an O-ring.
O'ring.
New valve, o'ring, fiber washers, etc.
Seems to have stopped leaking now all the rubber bits are swole up.
One problem down, then! No rain in the forecast until Monday, so you can work on jetting and shifting :vroom:
Quote from: 85RZwade on November 28, 2020, 09:39:27 AM
One problem down, then! No rain in the forecast until Monday, so you can work on jetting and shifting :vroom:
Ugh. Rained last night and streets are very leafy, wet and muddy.
I can play around with the bodywork. Got a fresh coat of Krylon on last night 🤣
Woods riding in Hood River tomorrow :metal:
That's a better plan!
Quote from: 85RZwade on November 28, 2020, 06:48:06 PM
That's a better plan!
Got it out and did another heat cycle in the driveway.
Low speed running feels much better with the airscrews wound in half a turn to 1 out.
Jetting specs I got were for CA in the summer +/- 75*.
It's 42* and rainy here now, and will be for the next five months. :bang:
Still need to get the title sorted too.
Don't stereotype PNW weather like that. It'll get colder than 42*...
(https://i.ibb.co/tJRmrhd/402-AAC1-B-2978-4982-A95-A-FF55-AB9-BB952.jpg)
Looks good all white, the blue dots pop.
Looks great!!
Current state of things.
(https://i.ibb.co/pz3Y0wP/19-D15-A84-8-B67-4948-8-A94-C54-FA18-DCB45.jpg)
Finally got jetting close enough for a proper ride. Currently at 50, 1.5 turns, N68A #3, 165. Still a bit hollow right off the line, so will wind in the airscrews half a turn, and if that don't fix it I'll go up to 52 pilots. Pulls hard on the needles and mains, but not done a proper plug chop, so don't know for sure where it is. Feels VERY strong tho, and expecting some good numbers once I have it run in enough to go on the dyno without fear it'll self-destruct.
(https://i.ibb.co/1bcmBmn/D9-F65-F6-D-1884-44-D0-A7-AB-20-B68-AD6-F1-C4.jpg)
Bit of an OH SHIT moment, as the rotor nut and rotor came loose and made a horrendous racket after a particularly spirited run up the main street a block over. Thankfully it's an easy fix, and the crank keyway, taper and threads are without damage. Will get the rattle gun out and get 'er on there good and tight.
Ugh. Woodruff key got mashed.
Will try to file mine back into shape, I guess.
I'm assuming they are all the same on all RD-RZ's ... anyone have a spare?
Quote from: pdxjim on December 19, 2020, 08:51:02 PM
Ugh. Woodruff key got mashed.
Will try to file mine back into shape, I guess.
I'm assuming they are all the same on all RD-RZ's ... anyone have a spare?
Woodruff key is just for alignment and the tightness of the nut is not what keeps the flywheel on. The taper is what holds the flywheel on and the nut just gets it on the taper. You should put a bit of valve lapping compound on the crank, put the flywheel on and spin it to lap it to the crank. Clean it all up and then put back together.
Quote from: rodneya on December 19, 2020, 09:07:13 PM
Woodruff key is just for alignment and the tightness of the nut is not what keeps the flywheel on. The taper is what holds the flywheel on and the nut just gets it on the taper. You should put a bit of valve lapping compound on the crank, put the flywheel on and spin it to lap it to the crank. Clean it all up and then put back together.
Yup. I lapped the rotor to the taper during first assembly.
I do understand the function of the key, but the upper part got squished from the rotor flopping around, and I'm afraid if I file it back into shape, the slop will allow for imprecise location and timing.
Maybe overthinking it, but it sounds like I can pick up a spare key from Garrett tomorrow.
He's a real blessing to have around, that guy.
nice. :clap: man that things thirsty.
If you have a local Ace hardware, our local one stocks a variety of Woodruff keys as well as a good selection of metric fasteners.
Welcome back!
Been a bit frustrated with the LC this past 8mos since I posted last in this thread.
Jetting was doing my head in. Got up to 55 pilots, N68A #2, 165 mains before I got tired of fcuking with it and pushed it into the corner of the garage. It was clearly WAY rich, an fourstroking thru the rev range, but would barely pull off the line with any smaller pilots.
I started thinking about selling it and buying a turnkey modern sport standard (FZ09, Street Triple, 790 Duke, etc), but then realized there must be something else going on effecting the jetting and making it so hard to tune.
I had always been unsatisfied with the way I modified the OEM RZ intake manifolds to fit the PWK's and the Vforce reed cages. I ordered a set of UPP manifolds, and pulled the intake apart. When i pulled the manifolds off I found (what appeared to be) a massive air leak between the manifolds and the reed cages. For some reason I didn't use gaskets there, and the Threebond alone didn't seem to be cutting it. The trimmed stuffer ears may have been preventing a proper seal as well.
Anyway, I got it all buttoned back up and I got a Banshee leakdown kit off ebay and it held 6psi util I got tired of waiting for it to go down.
I dropped the jetting down to 50, N68A #2, 150. Hopefully it runs better than before.
I also managed to squirrel away a few hundred bucks in the garage fund, so maybe a new YSS rear shock or Zeel is in my future.
Watch this space for more progress. I should be able to get a few laps around the neighborhood tomorrow, and the club is doing another Drag Night this Friday.
Best I could manage on the TDR last time was 14.75 ET @ 90mph. My launches were TERRIBLE.
It runs way better!!!
Going down to 45 pilots tomorrow.
:righteous:gettin it done, man!
Balls!
Only can find one 45 pilot, so hit jetsrus.com and ordered one 45, two 48, and a pair of 148 mains.
Plugs are wet, but starting to look the right color at least.
Oof! YSS shock looking like $375 shipped from the UK. Might be out of my budget.
Better find more stuff to sell!
I know it ain't jetsrus. Just sayin'.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0N8zQTZ5/image.jpg)
nice!
if you go with a zeel, get a banshee 4 degree offset woodruff key so you can program some advance in it as well.
Welp, got the call from James at nocamresto.com that the paint is done.
Only been a year, guess I better get back to work.
(https://i.ibb.co/d79R3BV/LC-bodywork.jpg)
:olaf: looks fantastic
That is beautiful paint work! :thumbs: :clap:
:righteous: :righteous:
Got the bodywork on and submitted it to Bring A Trailer! Will take a shitload of better pics prior to listing.
(https://i.ibb.co/CMyyhGT/IMG-3576.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ssZmq0g/IMG-3574.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/7NLnLvS/IMG-3562.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/qMT1W4W/IMG-3560.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/QnRQD6p/A0-A6-CFAE-4851-4-E08-8-F6-F-7-B060-B2-FFB0-B.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/DptRRJb/EE316-FCC-4-BE7-4-E3-D-B5-AB-08-FC0976-D490.jpg)
What's evreyone's opionion on what to do with the stock takeoff parts? All are salvageable, and the pipes, rear mudguard, airbox, etc are in perfect condition.
JDM pipes
Center stand
Rear mudguard w/reflector
Airbox
Complete brake system
Handlebars
etc
I might be interested Jim, if they're better than my parts.
Beautiful :patriot: :patriot:
Them parts are super desirable. It would be hard to sell them at the high value in USA but JAPAN is a different story. I bet someone from Japan will pick up the bike on BIT. if you add the parts to make it back to OEM spec it should increase the value so I would pack them all up in one deal so you dont have to deal with e bay trollers low ball offers.
Hey Jim, What's the part# on the Vforce3 cages? What did it take to fit them?
I used the Vforce3 reeds for YZ85. https://store.mototassinari.com/vforce3/motorcycle/yamaha/v382a.html
I had Garrett do the machining to fit, and used 6mm spacers between the reeds and the cyls. I used the urethane Banshee manifolds from UPP. https://uppracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_15&products_id=33
Word on the street is Vforce3 reeds for KX100 fit straight in with just the mounting holes on the cages needing enlarged fronm 8mm to 9mm. https://store.mototassinari.com/vforce3/v384a.html
Thanks for the information Jim!
they do. rm100 for sure.
thats what i have in the lightweight, zero mods to the intake tract to fit larger reeds, and i run PJ34s thru them.