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Yamaha did have some rather unique seals and bearings, like the TZ water pump, TZ750 lower steering head bearing, and the skinny outboard crank seals on TZ750 cranks, but renewing TD and TZ twin crank seals, I've used OTC after running out of OEM years ago.

I don't have any of the empty boxes from the OTC ones, but it seems they were 'SKF'(Asian) and usually had to be ordered; the RD and TZ seals are different part numbers, so that is probably the RD difference that makes them unique.

ww

I usually hit the local Bearing and Seal Supply store and buy OTC. They typically have what's needed on the shelf, and most seals can be had under $10 for top name brands such as TIMKEN, Fel-Pro, SKF etc. If in doubt, bring the old seal(s) with and have them match them up.

WW 

Thanks for the encouraging posts! I'm really stoked to have another RZ - been a long time...

Success - I'm picking it up on Monday!

Decent bike. Box-A miles (8400), and even has the original boat anchors (exhaust pipes).

ww

"Like riding a chainsaw."
FaceBook RD400 Custom

He called back - first refusal! I'm going to go look at it Saturday =)

Warren

- so I'll post a picture instead.

The seller bought the RGB500 (B is the race version) for $25K at the Chattanooga auction - quick? flip:

Facebook/Auction Suzuki RG(B)500 for $35K

ww

And today it's back! The Mod must have paid the bill or the cleaning lady finished vacuuming and plugged the server back in 

This topic reminds me of the website NATS (North American Two Strokes); it disappeared a few years ago without any notice or warning and some of the most comprehensive info concerning racing 2-strokes and especially the TZ's including an unofficial TZ750 Registry worldwide was permanently lost forever. Had any of the active posters known, the entire sight would have been backed up many times; I learned my lesson on backups, but too late. Now my 'Document file' has grown epically and saved to Flash Drive every week.

WW 

GoDaddy shows the domain name "tdr250.co.uk" as being owned by a URL brokerage firm, and for sale for $9.99.
Looks like it is long gone.

I tried clicking the link above and the bikes show up well down the page with prices; there is lots of other stuff in the auction to get past. More results of the racer lots on page three - nothing on page one.

I went to the Vegas auction and the 2T's seemed to hold their own, especially the twins and multis like the Gamma for $36.5K and the RZ500 for $36.3, both posting the highest prices for their brands. When they crossed the block many cards went up, not just a couple deep pockets like many of the more expensive bikes.

Definitely an aging crowd - I felt kinda young there, and I'm not...

WW
 

Prices are posted in the link - the IMO too-high 2T prices were more for running streetable bikes than clapped out racers. The 4-bangers went cheap though; it's where the market seems to be trending.

WARREN

Finally happened last week in Chattanooga; a good racer/mechanic friend of mine was there to buy, but came home empty handed.

For the most part, the 2T's were non-runner display/parts bikes missing lots and needing rebuilds. The NS400 was locked up and many parts including exhaust and engine covers were missing.

Here's the link:
https://compassauctions.hibid.com/catalog/702817/live-january-end-of-month-auction?apage=2 

He almost won the Lawson #21 bodywork - on close inspection and comparison with period pictures, he deemed it was genuine and from the 1983 Daytona bike. Someone else did too.

Warren

Thinking out of the box, and having much experience working with disabled patients, I thought (about 30 years ago), a Geri-lift patient transfer crane might just be the hot ticket for bike work, so I bought a used one at an estate sale for $100. One of the best investments I've made, and I still have it.

I use it constantly, and with a rated capacity of 600 pounds, it will loft any 2-wheeled device shy of a Luxo-barge. It came with a box of chains and straps which can hook to most anything without damage, and it comes apart so is easy to transport; it has been through 3 moves to Wisconsin, Arkansas, and Phoenix slid under bikes on an open trailer. 

It works especially well on bikes with expansion chambers or no center and/or side stand since you lift from the top and not the bottom - especially useful for race bikes. It's also great for extracting and installing heavy motors, changing wheels, forks, or doing swingarm work.

One of the nicest parts is it is on caster wheels, so can be maneuvered in any direction easily, even with a full load. I swear by it, not at it!   





Warren

Hi Tw,
Here's the ingredients for about a gallon of Zinc electroplating 'Salts,' done in Metric (easiest for me):
 
1 - 3 Liters Distilled Water 
2 - 0.2 Liters White (cheap) Vinegar
3 - 0.12 Liters Karo Syrup (or about 120 Grams pure cane sugar) as a whitener/brightener 
4 - 300 Grams Epsom Salt
5 - 100 Grams Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate (powder); super cheap. ZnSO4 provides the zinc ions in solution to facilitate the transfer of the Zinc Anode to the Work.
6 - Pure Zinc Anode strips or sheet; again cheap, just be sure it's 99%+ pure.

Worry not if measurements are not 100% perfect; a Ratio-Rite and Food Scale are plenty close. Give the mixture about 24 hours for everything to completely dissolve before using. I mixed mine up in a 1-Gallon capped jug, shook it every few hours, and used it the next day - it doesn't pressurize if you leave the cap on.  

Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate Powder - 35.5% Zn - 2 Pounds | eBay

12 Pcs Pure Zinc Anode Sheet (99.995% Pure) for Plating and Zinc... | eBay

7 - Power Supply:
No need for a plating transformer for smalls like the YA-1 levers; dry-cell 1.5V batteries - AA/C/D work. I used a parallel type flashlight battery holder with 4 AA's before buying a used electroplating transformer - 2V~10V at 3 amps was needed for bigger pieces like rims and handlebars. Anodes go to the + side, Work to the - side. I use 2 Anodes (one on either side of the work), or you can turn the work around at 5 or 10 minute intervals to get an even plate - just  be sure to expose all surfaces to the Anode(s).  There is a formula for how much voltage to use for a given surface area but I go seat-of-the-pants. Too much voltage and the plating will come out grainy, thick, and gray, and not enough voltage gives a thin, 'rainbowish' colored finish that takes forever. When you get it right it takes about 30 minutes, and leaves a nice, smooth, bright finish; expect bubbles to form on the work after a few minutes, and a light foam (sometimes) on the surface of the bath around the work. No bubbles usually means more voltage is needed, and too much bubbling (white opaque foam) means reduction. 1.5V to 2V does most everything M/C. Rinse thoroughly in tap water when done. I usually polish the part with 0/00 Steel Wool for more shine. 

I used Fine Glass Beads in a blaster to prep the levers; rock/vibratory tumblers work great too. Wipe the work down with 99% alcohol and let it dry before plating - if not, you may leave fingerprints or bare spots in the Zinc. The hangar wire will leave a bare spot where against or too close to the Work too.  

Another addition to the restoration progress, rebuilding the YA-1 Advance Mechanism; it was stuck retarded (I can sympathize), had corrosion, and both advance-springs were missing. Being careful not to over-restore an engine part (good excuse, huh?), I took it apart and spent maybe 15 minutes at the wire-wheel (bench mount with extra-soft bristles) to eliminate the corrosion and rust, a once over with medium steel wool to get the crevasses, then washed and rinsed everything in distilled water. The pieces were staggered along a piece of safety wire hanger and plated all at once using the same setup exactly as for the levers - a piece of masking tape was wound around the pivot shafts on the flyweights to prevent plating. 

The big trick was the springs; all newer Yamaha (and several other's) advance springs were way too large. The YA-1 springs were sandwiched in a space that measured 4mm wide; Back to China =( for a bulk 1 foot length of 3.5mm OD Expansion Spring to make new ones. Luckily Yamaha used the 'down and dirty' method to make the springs and both end loops were just a coil of the spring bent straight out. Hardest part was keeping 4 spring ends hooked up and screwing the tension plate down at the same time. Works fine now!

Warren