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Put a small inline on/off valve close to one side; that way you can turn off the one side, and clip a hemostat (or whatever) to the open line when disconnecting - just leave enough line on the valve side to bend it out of the way to clear the frame during tank removal.

I do that on all my tanks with balance tubes - it saves messes.

Well modded 'naked' KR/YB:

RZ in Phoenix

WW

Just sold today (9/21) at the Mecum auction for $7700:

'72 H2 Kawasaki

Now for something completely different. Totally rare Newer/Old Scott -

Iconic - 1966 Flying Squirrel

Thanks for the comment - I use that pic for background on my computer!
I remember the Tribsa - best of both (British) worlds. Having owned various Brit bikes, the BSA (twin shock) is the one I would choose for a day of road-riding twisties in the mountains, but at a stoplight showdown? No match for a Triumph.

For those with extra-deep pockets, the Norvin wins. The Vincent twins handled good when new, but once things loosened up, they felt kinda hinged-in-the-middle. Featherbed Nortons were about the only thing from back then stout enough (and big enough) to handle the power and weight of the V-twin motor. A stock Featherbed Atlas handled super great, but they would shake your teeth out. If you wanted to take an Atlas apart, just start it, put in the corner on something to catch the pieces, and go to bed; by morning you're done.   

ww

Beauty is in the eyes...

To us fossils, the mid-20th Century British styling nailed it; they built bikes the way a motorcycle is supposed to look.  Few bikes out 'eye-candy' the Triumph Bonneville or the BSA A-series.
I'm lucky enough to own what I consider the prettiest motorcycle on the planet: a leaking, shaking, ill-handling (plungers can get squirrely), unreliable (thanks to Lucas mostly), beast:



Warren

Sold: $11,750   Just WOW   

Plus 10% Buyer Penalty = $12,925

If it was within 300 miles of here it would already be in Phoenix and I'd be smiling!

ww

Though I'd put this here because of the topic; it would be a strength upgrade. This is for a TD3/TR3 or TZ250A/TZ350A, basically the same S/A as used on the Works RD56:

TD/TR/TZ Swingarm plus Axle

The Tach, choke lever, and carbs are TZ250/350 - just those 3 items would sell for 1/2 of the final price. 

im curious.  i def dont need an arm for anything but certainly eyeballed it. whats the arm length difference? not sure if it was mentioned

The max functional center-to-center length (S/A pivot to axle) is 20"

Overall length is 22"

Distance from S/A pivot to shock eye is 16"

Weight with bearings is 12 pounds

W

...but for that price you could have something custom made... that is a lot lighter

Just curious, how much cheaper and lighter?
So far, no one here has investigated the 2SW price, or asked the weight (consider, a TZ750 weighs the same as an RD250).
I HATE feeBay and their hassles/hustles, and price there accordingly. 2 different worlds... 

Warren

Probably a direct swap...

Width at the pivot is 200mm so is compatible. The advantages are the 4 roller bearings (side and shaft both), and the double-thickness arms spotwelded internally - that is why they are heavy. Builders from the day found stock arms the best for twin shock to mono-shock conversions due to their strength and rigidity.

The RD/LC pivot shaft would need a sleeve since the stock TZ750 is 20mm; easy fix. The complete axle with all spacers and adjusters and the caliper arm are also posted in separate listings and would make a nice kit:
TZ750 Axle Assembly
TZ750 Caliper Bracket

Discount price for everything!



 
 

'Suppose a TZ750 swingarm would be a bit of overkill - a bit heavy but it's a stout muther! Discount price for 2SW:

 TZ750 Swingarm

Yamaha did have some rather unique seals and bearings, like the TZ water pump, TZ750 lower steering head bearing, and the skinny outboard crank seals on TZ750 cranks, but renewing TD and TZ twin crank seals, I've used OTC after running out of OEM years ago.

I don't have any of the empty boxes from the OTC ones, but it seems they were 'SKF'(Asian) and usually had to be ordered; the RD and TZ seals are different part numbers, so that is probably the RD difference that makes them unique.

ww