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Float levels correct?

Petcock screens in good condition?

Yeah should be. Tank is clean and carbs are barely used, I set the levels. I'd think I'd see a fuel starvation issue on longer wide open pulls and I don't get that at all. Anyway I'll tinker. Thanks for the input.

Thanks guys. It is odd bc my setup hasn't changed for years and it never used to do this. Feels almost like it's running out gas like when you need to flip to reserve, but only occasionally when going from dead stop or like I said a very slow corner. In the video when at first stop sign then a bit later you can hear it just bogs hard for several seconds. Not sure if it was apparent.

https://youtube.com/shorts/2LUUtI2ckAs?si=wsw2--ijE05l_Mjn

Made a (crappy phone in jacket pocket) video of the 'falling on its face' my bike is doing from a stop or when slowing down to about a 1st gear turn. When I get back on the gas it just bogs hard as you can see in the video a few times. I raised the clip one slot and also changed my pilot to a 30 to see if that helped. It mostly did not. Strangely my air screws seem to have very little affect when I adjust them. Like the idle doesn't really increase or decrease to find the sweet spot. Once on the needle jet it seems to pull pretty hard.

Thanks y'all. Yeah it feels like a lean bog from a stop. After that it feels rich. I know most people have good luck with the Dave F mod and the 2.0 air jets but don't those lean out the 0-1/4 transition?

Also couldn't get the bike to start at all after pulling carbs. Chasing my tail til I realized I installed one of the slides backwards 😂 in all my years never done that ONE lol

Howdy everyone, back again trying to get my RD ready for street riding season. Fired up first kick. Nice. Went for a little ride and noticed once the bike is warmed up, it will still fall on its face when leaving from a stop. I basically have to rev it to 4k to take off. Would seem my jetting is rich. Curious if my baseline is in the ballpark?
New 5ah battery
Charging @ 14.5 volts

Stock porting
DG pipes
Y boot with uni pod
Vintage smoke ign @1.8 btdc
Brand new vm28's
Dave f mod
2.5 slide
210 main
27.5 pilot
169-p2
2.0 air jet
5dp7 needle
Needle clip 4th from top
Air screw 1 turn

From what I see others running I'd think I'd be in the neighborhood, but it's pretty much not safe ride as is. Super frustrating. Thanks for any tips!

Ok, if anyone has this issue. Check your battery. Installed new battery and it's charging fine now. Maxs out at 14.5 and stays there! 🆒

Went ahead and bought a new battery. Mine seemed a little suspect. These little 5ah alarm batteries are like $17 so why not. Is it possible that an internally damaged battery could cause an overcharge situation?

Also I am trying to determine if the voltage drop I'm measuring is normal or not. Basically with my new battery I get 12.6 at posts, 12.6 at the main red wire that feeds to main switch while grounding the multimeter at frame or any other back probed ground wire. All read the same. With no headlight just led taillight and power to coils switched off I get about .7 volt drop. I figured it was my keyed switch, so I took it apart to clean but it was perfect inside. The springs that push the contacts together felt strong. cleaned it anyway and reassembled. Now with the main switch plugged in I tested the voltage at the factory solder points that are exposed on the back. I get 12.6 at the red wire but once I turn the key it drops to just about 11.9. Both the red wire in and brown wire out drop. This is with kill switch to off so coils aren't pulling juice, also tried with taillight unplugged too, basically no load at all. This really confuses me as all my connections are new. Could this be normal? Anyway, tomorrow I will start it up and see if the overcharging problems persists and if so then new reg/rec time. My current part is out of the 1 year warranty period and I have no way to test if its good to rule it out. 😤

Ok so I doubled checked the wiring. It's pretty simple, 3 white from generator go to 3 yellow to rectifier, green to green, black to black, red to fuse/battery, brown to switched 12v brown, black ground to frame. The ground brush shows continuity (meter goes basically to zero when set to ohms)to generator cover and to frame ground point. So maybe the part is faulty. Guess I need to reach out to Ricks, dang it.

Thanks Mark, yep that's the part. I'll double check how everything is hooked up. So should I just test for continuity from black brush wire to frame ground?

Dug around a little and found a test to perform. According to Ricks: I unplugged the brown wire to the regulator, which I believe to be the 12v 'sense' wire on a Rd350, and made a jumper to connect the brown(from regulator) directly to battery +, so it's reading true battery voltage and not a voltage drop somewhere(main switch/connectors etc). It still is overcharging by quite a lot. The black wire from the r/r is connected to frame at same point as battery so I don't think it's a ground issue. This r/r is basically brand new. Love to hear some thoughts? Thanks.

Yeah I'm not sure how the newer r/r 'senses' the battery voltage. It has one less wire than the original, but I think that's just bc the unit is combined unlike original.

Well, time flies! Decided to go for a little rip as it's shockingly not raining today in PDX. My headlight blew    seems I have an electrical issue. 😡
Been tending my battery all winter, measures 12.8. So I measured the voltage with the bike running and at the battery terminals I get around 14.5 even when revving. However, the voltage is spiking if I measure the voltage at the main frame ground and battery +. Which, to my brain, makes zero sense bc the wire is literally connected to the battery obviously. Measured at the headlight power wire and when revving it went to like 18v. So no surprise it popped.
I have the r/r made by Ricks sold by HVC. Also I notice about a 1v drop anywhere that's powered from the main brown(headlight. Gauge lights etc)when I switch the key on.  So I have a voltage drop and an overcharge situation, that doesn't show up at the battery itself. Need some ideas, thanks!

Seems to be sealing now! Yeah I think I will put the original springs in. Real tough to get the needle for tuning also with the linger springs. Those slides slam shut too lol

Got some fresh vm28's and swapped my jetting over. Nice that they are already setup for screwing in air jets, no drilling and tapping. The slides are wayyy heavier. They seem to be steel instead of brass and the return springs are longer. I had to use the original top adjusters to make my cable work but no biggie. The longer springs make the throttle pull feel the slightest bit 'crunchy' as the spring coils on itself. The fuel inlets are way bigger than the petcock outlets so had to get creative with the fuel lines. Only annoying part is that the slide adjuster on the right carb is hard to get at. Oh and pretty annoyed that the left one was pissing gas everywhere 😡 for fucks sake! They're brand new! 😭
I took it back off and double checked the float valve etc. seemed fine. So I made sure the breather hoses were not
Kinked or blocked. Now seems to be not overflowing. 🤷 Will take it for a ride tomorrow ✌️

Well picked this up from a good friend... once I 'button up' the 350 I'll have plenty to do 😂! Always loved the slightly larger frame, rubber mounted motor, and stronger low end on the 400's.