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It's 77 RD400 forks and a 400 Seca fender.

no motor on here here is going to ever going come close to outflowing a 75mm ID Y boot, w 56/58mm id runners. ever. It's not about area, its about smoothing & directing the air flow,  or i would have stuck with my all-foam unis i had on as well. it def runs better w the Y on there. IF there was room i would have just made 2 straight runners but that damn frame. lol.  However, the difference was not night and day  over all, the foam filters are really good. Yes, i even have an all foam ram air setup like that as well.

When it comes to a filter, it's absolutely about surface area. That's a ridiculous statement.  Your wye works well because of it's large interior dimensions, not the shape or some flow it creates.  You want intake air to be pretty much ambient, unless you're creating a forced air situation like with a turbo.

I've been running a custom TPU 3d printed intake on my Honda Elsinore for well over a year. It goes through hare scramble hell and it works great.  I've also been using the Ramair filters with my TM34's and they also work great. The Ramair filter has more surface area than running a single filter through a wye and keeps everything inside the cradle, which is why I swapped to the Ramair. I've also printed an exe intake to run dual filters. I never properly flow tested anything, so can't say for certain if any setup is better than another. so went with the simplicity of the Ramair.     

That reminds me of a buddy who sold his 1993 Arctic Cat El Tigre 530. He said the guy that bought it was all mad when he found out the sled had a bad miss at 100 mph.

My buddy laughed at him and said that thing does 100?

The earlier 80s El Tigre's with the 500cc Suzuki had 85hp and did 90 mph+ easily. They were popular lake racing sleds where I grew up in Michigan. Did they detune the later models?

Are you also doing actual plug chops or just looking at the top of the insulator? You're getting into the weeds technically on the carb setup, but then only offer a very general indicator as proof of results.

I'll be in the swap with my LC conversion and lots of junk for sale.

I run the RE302 YSS on my RD.  It's a non-rebuildable shock, but a bit cheaper than the rebuildable stuff YSS makes that fit.  I like the shocks a lot. 

Parking, or downshifting to park, is when it likely occurred.  All that momentum slamming down on the gears and the dogs trying to shift them.

If they would've annealed the PC-CF it would've gotten more life, or if they would've used PPA-CF and annealed it, they would've doubled the Tg vs the PC-CF.  PPA-CF and PC-CF are also both machineable, so they could've produced more refined pistons had they wanted to.

You might have to join the group to see it, but it's pretty neat. I'd love to know more.



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Old school Chem-dip worked great at taking the paint off stock 350B carbs.

For cyls and heads, I'd suggest finding someone to blast them. 

Dry bead blast if you're gonna paint em, wet beads (vapor) if they'll be left raw.

Def more expensive than DIY with chems and elbow grease, but the finish is worth it.

To get the polish on the cases in the pic, that requires two blasts in a vapor hone.  The glass bead that gives it that polish will remove some of the paint, but not most of it and requires all the oil and grease to be cleaned first.  You'd still need to vapor blast with an abrasive like aluminum oxide, garnet or silicon carbide to get the paint off first.

These were not painted originally, and just greasy dirty. They got one pass thru with wet beads and came out beautifully.

Yes, but the OP is looking for advice on cheaply removing paint. Your situation is different than what they are looking for advice on.  They will have vapor hone with an abrasive media, then again with glass beads to get the finish you are promoting.

Old school Chem-dip worked great at taking the paint off stock 350B carbs.

For cyls and heads, I'd suggest finding someone to blast them. 

Dry bead blast if you're gonna paint em, wet beads (vapor) if they'll be left raw.

Def more expensive than DIY with chems and elbow grease, but the finish is worth it.

To get the polish on the cases in the pic, that requires two blasts in a vapor hone.  The glass bead that gives it that polish will remove some of the paint, but not most of it and requires all the oil and grease to be cleaned first.  You'd still need to vapor blast with an abrasive like aluminum oxide, garnet or silicon carbide to get the paint off first.

She's a peach.

I send the jugs with the pistons to the machine shop and everything comes back ready to install with clearances already sorted.

Mine slipped a couple times after I did my first installation, then I got my crank rebuilt (they cleaned up the taper). I reinstalled it with upgraded bolt/washer kit and it's been dead nuts since.  Thousands of miles and 2 years since the last adjustment.