Messages

The only reason at all that I see for a Li battery is if you are using one of the Antigravity small case or something similar in a situation where you absolutely have to have the smallest battery with the most CCA possible.

And on a kickstart the only bike, I see little benefit at all.

I'm pretty sure that Ballistic Batteries are/were not LiFePO4, maybe NiCad, way more volatile. A cascading meltdown in a LiFePO4 will smolder but shouldn't catch fire. I presume this is in part why Ballistic folded, that coupled with no campaign to educate the public about charge tollerances.

I just skipped to the good bit so I didn't hear them say it but I assume those are NiCads?

Curious if anyone knows offhand if the G7 and G3's share the same flywheel shaft taper.

Have you tried running a battery eliminator like a Bat-Pac? If you run a permanent magnet system like a Power Dynamo, now called Vape, without a battery a capacitor is needed to even out the voltage.

1. I've ran a batpack on my RZ for years with no battery and no issues.

https://shop.revivalcycles.com/bat-pac-battery-eliminator/

Full disclosure, I work for Revival. I'm not really concerned if you buy it from us or elsewhere.

I like the Bat-Pac over other capacitor options because of the packaging design with allows it to be discreetly wire tied to a frame tube under the seat. And it works, they have a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer.


2. Shorai claims that their lithium batteries can charge at 14.8v but all other manufacturers that I'm familiar with state 14.5v is the max. That .3v isn't a lot but over an extended period it will shorten the lifespan of the battery to months or maybe a year. If the regulator is out of spec and allowing higher voltages, 15+ then it can cause a cascading meltdown within the battery which makes for a terrible mess and can produce a huge voltage spike that will fry any electronics that are not properly fused.