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Is one pipe set better than the other? Stock porting, 30 mm carbs, Vape ignition, Y pipe filter. Open to other pipe options.

Thanks for the response. I did finally find the Pipe ID page after your response. Now to get them cleaned up and some dent removal.

Pictures were kind of limited by file size. I can try again if needed.

Sorry, took me a while to dig out all the parts. Here are pics of the 2 pipe sets. These are both off 79 RD400F's. The first has 2 stamped sides welded together. The second rolled and welded cone sections. Head pipe almost looks like an adapter. Hope someone can ID. Thanks for any help.

Has anyone ever posted a way to identify expansion chambers for RD400. I have 2 sets of pipes and do not see any way to identify.   Maybe a collection of pictures and labels. They seldom have a name tag.

That's the plan. Then remove and blend the external mounts. The stator I have is Nippondenso. Don't know if newer (?) is the same manufacturer.

Picked up a 1975 GT185 in decent running condition. When checking why the shifter movement was so stiff, found that the cases were broken on the left side. As if it threw a chain through the cases. All kinds of damage. Someone tried to epoxy repair but there was too much damage to correct the shifting problem. I bought another complete engine with good cases. Stripped it all down to clean up and noticed that generator was different on the 2 engines. The stator mounts inside the cases on one and outside the cases on the other. My question is, do all alternator parts interchange? Do I need to keep the same armature with the stator? The armature that came with the new engine may be damaged and didn't come with the stator.

Need some help restoring an RD400 Daytona frame. Previous owner had removed the foot peg mounts to add their own home made rear sets. I am now trying to replace those studs to install footpegs. I ground out the old remains of the studs and machined new ones. Question is, how far do they stick out of the frame? If anyone has a frame, I need the measurement from the frame to the end of the stud.
Thanks!

Had the same problems with my T500 only it was 3rd and 4th gear. Split the cases and noticed pitting on the offending gears. Picked up another complete transmission set on Ebay. No pitting on any of the gears. Swapped and noise gone. Lately had the same problem with 6th gear on a Suzuki 650 V Strom. Common issue on that bike I found out later.  Must be a problem with gear manufacturing at Suzuki.

Race Tech responded with the info I needed. Many thanks! These were obviously never set up by the previous owner, just dropped in and run. They are set up for the Daytona correctly now. Just need to finish the rest of the bike now.

OK. Have the damping rods switched. Modified the ones to use the emulators by drilling the damping rod holes correctly. The directions refer to a DVS set up. Being as I am not the original purchaser, I do not have this info. It would appears these valves were never set up. They have a silver spring with no paint mark I can see and were adjusted one turn in. Enough to hold the assembly together it seems. Only one bleed hole. I emailed Race Tech Support to see if I could get the DVS info. Haven't heard back. Maybe someone that has set these up can offer some advise.

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will need to modify the stock damper rods for the emulators and move the modified dampers to the spare set. Then a comparison will be in order. I'm rather slow with my projects, but will get there eventually.

OK, here is the second part to the fork rebuild. When I dismantled a second set of RD400F forks, I found they had Gold Valve emulators installed. The damper rods also had been modified. The 2 top holes and one of the bottom holes had been filled. Seems to me I have seen this done to older Yamaha dirt bike forks in the past. May be a common mod to old Yamaha forks or something done when adding the emulators? I have never used emulators before.
Also noticed one set of forks (stock looking) had long progressive looking springs with no spacer. Only required about 10mm of compression to install caps. Other set (modified) had shorter springs with long, about 5" spacer. Required about 2" of compression to install caps. Also had Goki air caps.

I am rebuilding a set of forks for my latest RD Daytona project. Dismantled and cleaned everything. Installed new fork tubes. After reassembly, noticed one leg would stick in the compressed position. Other leg fine, no sticking. Switched back to the old fork tube, same thing but not as bad. Noticed small ridge on bottoming cone as if it were hitting a sharp edge. Sanded it off and tried again. Same thing. Have another set of the same forks, so I tried them. Same thing. One side sticking other side ok. If I remember correctly it was the right side. Strange, 2 sets of forks, 3 sets of tubes, all do the same thing on one side. Both sets of forks have the same nick in the bottoming cone. Is there a known problem with these forks or is this a strange coincidence? When I took apart the spare set, I noticed they had been modified. I will ask about that on another post.

Thanks all fort the response. Good to know there is a family of knowledge.