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When you don't have a mill...  Not perfect, but not bad! Took me a while to make though. The caliper really takes up a lot of space between the forks. Looks like it will hit the wheel. Hopefully an optical illusion.

Nice work on the caliper bracket,

Thank for the kind comments, The clutch cover was modified by Ed Toomey so I could use the TZ water pump I had in my spare box. It came out pretty nice. I got the pipe kit from Swabrick and they have the dimensions from the TZ750E model. I will keep an eye out for any cracks in the stinger area. I am pleasantly surprised how street able this combo is.

One other change I did was to put the RD400 transmission into the 350 case following Chucks Q. suggestions. Waiting to see if the nice 2 to 1 carb boot that Mark designed comes available. I could defiantly use one on this bike.

I finally got most of my project done and would like to share it with my fellow 2strokers. I want to thank Jspooner for encouragement and information at the beginning of the project, his build was very nice and got me moving on mine. I originally got the TZ750 cylinder, head, TZ250 water pump and VM34 carburetors back in the 80s when I was racing with the intend to build a fun street bike. Life happened, and I have had the parts in my spare pile for some time. The front-end and seat came out of my TZ250 spares from back in the day. I modified a 73 RD350 frame to mount the radiator. It has a vape ignition. I am currently working on a modified Radian swing-arm to replace the stock one. Riding it puts a smile on my face.

Glad to help, just passing it on as someone helped me when I was looking for the color years ago. It does darken a little with the clear put on top.

The only graphics was the Yamaha lettering. I think I got them off eBay, but not sure since I also like to get item like that from Economy cycle. I was looking for a specific height on the lettering to match the blocks I wanted to use. The attached shows the beginning of masking for the black paint.

The tint does look a little different then the mix they did for me using the same number. Here is my current project I just finished painting using the same paint I used on my RZ.

Regards Robert

I got a Chinoy system back around 2011 and have it running on one of my 350s now. I understand the comments mentioned about the system since mine had issues with the charging side right out of the box. after some troubleshooting, I found the short and fixed it. It seems to work OK now, but there is no support for them if they have an issue, and quality control was not the best back then. It did come with the wire harness and the lefthand switch.

Regards Robert

I painted my RZ with the PPG Deltron 83033 and found the color pretty close to original but have not parked it next to one with original paint to compare it against. I painted my RD with Dupli-color chrome yellow, and it was pretty close to the RZ before I painted it but may have been just a tad brighter. That could have been the aged clear coat on the RZ original paint causing the impression. Now the two bikes look pretty close on the shade yellow.

I would think something along the line of a turning gear for a large battleship gun turret or the very large ship diesel engine blocks. I have seen some almost that large doing the horizontal joint on the large land-based gas turbine cases used for power generation. The next building over they probably have a vertical lath around the same size.

I went back into the other HPI threads and pulled the below concerning the black/white wire coming off the coil. Is the statement below only good when using the relay for DC systems? It seems like the setup would be very similar to the vape system using the one wire off the coil to shut it down. I was planning to install my HPI system wired similar to the Vape system I have.

CDI black/white...? To be used as a kill wire for coil, connect to a toggle switch then to frame ground connection or kill button that then goes to frame ground connection for closed to ground for engine kill. Like a dirtbike button. You can also wire in a bosch 5 pin relay to run on the stock ignition switch.

On the rotor I have not installed yet the timing mark on the outside does not line up with the notch on the magnet. It looks to be about 45 degrees off.

The longer ones look like the stinger is inserted into the aft cone. Per some pipe building instructions this was a method to reduce noise without impacting performance.

I had an issue with the idle not settling down very fast on my 350 not long ago and it turned out that I had dirty uniflow air filters. Once I cleaned the filter the motor settled to idle after a blip as it should have. I am running 32.5 also. I will not mention how many times I cleaned the carbs before I cleaned the filters and fixed the returning to idle issue.

I would recommend caution when looking at standard torque values off the internet. These values are based on steel to steel joints and on our old bikes one side of the joint is steel to old aluminum cast material. The pull out force for aluminum threads is lower then steel.   

The Wedge type lock washer work well with Nord-lock being the best known. They are thicker than the standard spring lock washer and you would need one under the bolt head as well as the nut to work well. The standard bolt may not be long enough to put two of these on. There is another knock of version of these wedge washers that are a little cheaper but also thicker than the Nord-lock. In my industry we would only use them once; if the joint had to be broken then the lock washer would be replaced. The last bit would apply to all types of lock washers, which I do not always follow on my personal projects.

Amazon sell them in small quantities.
https://www.amazon.com/Wedge-Locking-Washer-Carbon-Coated/dp/B007VAW4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_328_3/145-9502586-3487521?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007VAW4FG&pd_rd_r=8220ab11-dbe8-4765-82e7-817c0657b13e&pd_rd_w=rX8AS&pd_rd_wg=r80Tz&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=PMTMQ0PA5T8G8XM2K5K2&psc=1&refRID=PMTMQ0PA5T8G8XM2K5K2