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British bike parts suppliers can sell you fender "blanks", available in different lengths and widths, in mild steel, stainless or aluminium

"70s too
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/gallery/1/norton-girls

I find the "big rotor" pulls the cheeks out of phase, it doesn't break cranks... and the biggest advantage of the TZ rotor is it's diameter, not mass.
... but then I only deal with the 3J7, that has  a superior crank

To replace the lab seal you have to break the crank down... you'll need a press. I think the hardest part of that will be finding a replacement seal.
If you have an "original", never serviced RD350 crank, it's time to do something with the crank. Bearings DO NOT last 50 years, even in a box on the shelf.

...but for that price you could have something custom made... that is a lot lighter

That's not a RD-LC swinger
They look like a dirt bike swingarm, like this:

... sorta copied from a TZ-F or a YZ

From a handling standpoint you want to add some wheelbase to your RD350, RD400 and XS650 swingers add about 1 1/2" and are bolt on, laying the shocks down a bit helps too, no more than 45 degrees though.

I have a CMR swinger, 4130, takes a 150 easily (this is for a TZ-G, but he does one for aircooled dual shock RDs that is mostly the same

Yeah it's steel. After much argument on my part, I have been convinced you want a (properly designed) steel swing arm. We all want a stiff swing arm, but they flex, no matter what you bolt on there. To make a swinger that doesn't flex would be weight prohibitive. A steel swing arm will return to it's original shape faster than a comparably stiff aluminum one. (This doesn't apply to a big modern cast super sport swingarm, they're so big they just do not flex... but would look really stupid on a RD350)
... all that being said: if you're after actual real "performance" you don't want a big tire; the frame can't take it, the motor doesn't need it and they'll slow you down. 
And the DG swing arms are a bad joke.

The TZR wheels I had were really narrow, like 1.85 front, 2.50 rear and had a single 300 or 330mm disk on the front and a 8" rear disk

I bought them cuz they're TZR wheels, but could never find a use for them and ended up giving them to buddy that used them for TZ125 rains

There's issues....
A "G" had a aluminum swingarm and shock... and a "low boy" frame
Here's a  "G"

$12k for "G" is about what I'd expect (If you're gonna race a TZ, you want a "G"... or a CMR)
I think this is an "E" (try not to notice the engine mount on the top of the case... that was dis-continued on the "C")

As I understand it, you want the higher levels of ZDDP on any non-roller cam valvetrain.

You WANT about 1100-1200 PPM ZDDP. Too much ZDDP is a BAD thing.
Most motorcycle oils have about that level of ZDDP, any car oil advertising elevated ZDDP levels should have that much ZDDP. "Normal" car oil has about 800-900 PPM. ZDDP clogs car cat converters.
ZDDP is a lubricant of "last resort", if all else fails, there's still ZDDP... or boron or .... The idea is if you wipe all the oil off a metal surface (run out of oil), there is still a coat of ZDDP. You don't WANT to use the ZDDP... but it coats all metal surfaces, not just cam followers, mains and big ends too.
ZDDP is not the be all and end all of oil choices.

And the two things that have changed the most since these bikes were built is oil and tires. When these bikes were built; there was no "gear lube" and they were designed to use Reg 30 oil in the trans, not because it was GOOD, but because it was available everywhere. Gear lube is BETTER... you can build a gear lube with more sheer and less lubricity than a motor oil, that works better in a transmission.
IF you are going to run gear lube: you MUST use GL4, nothing else (use GL3 if you can find it, but GL3 was superseded by GL4). GL4 has lower levels of sulfur, the bright metal in the trans doesn't like sulfur. So no GL4/GL5... must be GL4.
Viscosity is rated differently in gear lube than motor oil... so a 75-80 gear lube is about the same viscosity as a reg 30 motor oil... about.

All the good stuff?
Where's the pipes? carbs? brakes?  That's all good stuff.

If this thing was complete... and a little less crusty, it would be worth the ask.

If anyone is looking for a TZ with all the good stuff: get in touch

We can't log in to your gmail

maybe post your password

... been down this road before. Too bad i don't remember where the road went.

The RD was built through the introduction of tubeless motorcycle tires. The 1A1 bikes are not, the Daytonas might be.

The first tubeless rims were denoted as tubeless, they had either "tubeless type" or "TT" cast into the rim. You can also tell if they are tubeless type by the hole for the air valve: tubeless have bigger holes.

... and in case you didn't know: RD rims are a knock off of Andrews rims... 'cept Andrews rim don't weigh as much. RD rims are boat anchors

The final RD400, the 3J7, the F and G models in Canada (and there was an Australian model 3M4?)had the same taper as the later RD-LC or RZ.
That final crank looked more like a TZ crank than a RD crank... it had holes in the cheeks and no heavy metal for balance... and the key was 90 degrees off... and I think the pins were serrated (I don't remember)


Before the F and G models, the Canadian RDs and the US RDs were the same

The problem with racing that is it isn't going to be competitive against a more modern TZ750, with a modern frame... and tires... and wheels... and brakes... and cartridge forks....

Looks cool though

$35,000
Who says prices are depressed?