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Not from Europe but paid a 15% tariff for my brake conversion parts from China. I whole lot less than what I paid last time I ordered CNC'd stuff.

The dividers are a cool idea.
I just got finished with a 2-1 for my VM30s, what type/brand of TPU do you use?

i like the split chain adjuster.

looks good.

Thanks,
Made them 2 pieces so the right side adjuster can adapt the larger hole the original hanger sat through.

I finally got around to modeling up a rear brake conversion I've been planning for, an underslung brembo p34 with a 245mm disk, got everything mocked up and ready for machining after a couple more tweaks.

I just crudely painted a plastic fender for my bike so I dont know how well it would hold up but I just scuffed it up, put glazing putty on some spots, and sprayed it with some old black paint I had, still have some spots to sand.
As far as Krylon goes, I have Krylon's John Deer Yellow on my bike. Had some issues but I think that was just poor prep I just have it cleared with 2k and its holding up decent, really any spot falling apart is my fault.

Thanks for those dimensions, they ended up working for my hoop.
Been making progress slowly but got everything welded up that I needed and got most things powder coated. Today I got the motor back in.



My fork tubes ended up being slightly bent, I didnt take them apart previously because I was having trouble getting the damping rods out, ended up hammering one of those "universal" sockets down with a T-Handle to stop them from spinning.
While I had them out I installed MikesXS valves, new tubes, adjustable fork caps, and new seals and hardware.

I have the relocation kit flange if you need it to weld on.

Hey all,
I am still working on my frame, I was wondering if someone can get me some measurements this tail hoop (Height [from bottom of frame to top], Width, and thickness. Thanks

Neat, I may just do something like that if I choose to use my stock battery box or at least the idea of having spots for plugs and a socket.

I made one that hangs over under the seat, needs some tweaks though.

For a while i had a yz250 shifter mounted backwards on my 400

I saw a battery this size at home depot, ill probably end up getting one if this one is working out good for you.
I only need a battery to trigger my ignition kill relay as I am using HPI ignition too.

Re-sleeved my wiring for my hpi/neutral switch today,
I printed a new boot out of TPU and it is impressive how flexible it is. Bought the spool of tpu to make an intake, just never got around to it.

Both cans will need some finaggling as well as they are too close to the axle and will be dealt with at the House of Haase.

I have the same issue with their pipes on my 400, right inline with my axle.

They might be able to send you a small sample piece. I would try to get in contact with them and see.

I got around to getting my motor all back together for the most part with some new billet heads and vforce reeds and hope this helps clear off my work bench so I can move on to other parts.



I also put retrofitted my existing electronics panel to fit a smaller fuse block, a programmable hpi, and relocate where my ignition relay was to the back of the board as previously I had one that was way too overkill fitted up under the tank. I also previously had my ignition coil on this board but wanted to move it so I have more room to organize my wire harness.



I previously had the programmable HPI on my bike for a little bit but could not get the curve dialed in like how the standard curve was and I always had trouble starting so I switched back. Does anyone have a base curve or some pointers to help me out with that? I also did have issues with it running backwards after following the instructions for it, could this be fixed by setting max advance with the rotor like how standard does it?