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I got around to getting my motor all back together for the most part with some new billet heads and vforce reeds and hope this helps clear off my work bench so I can move on to other parts.



I also put retrofitted my existing electronics panel to fit a smaller fuse block, a programmable hpi, and relocate where my ignition relay was to the back of the board as previously I had one that was way too overkill fitted up under the tank. I also previously had my ignition coil on this board but wanted to move it so I have more room to organize my wire harness.



I previously had the programmable HPI on my bike for a little bit but could not get the curve dialed in like how the standard curve was and I always had trouble starting so I switched back. Does anyone have a base curve or some pointers to help me out with that? I also did have issues with it running backwards after following the instructions for it, could this be fixed by setting max advance with the rotor like how standard does it?

I've heard people used "ColorsInc" in Indiana with good results, never tried them though as there is someone local to me ill go to.

Yesterday I continued cutting off mounts and cut the old kickstand mount off. Still need to clean the cuts up more.
My billet mount came in as well as some other bits ill show as I get to it.

Has anybody cut off that center cross bar replacing it with a tube? I would guess I would want the tube welded in before cutting it off. I would like to remove it mostly to make it easier to clean from oils as oil get in it as well as the old footpeg mounts and it was a pain to clean.
Hopefully now my motor doesn't leak but it probably will continue to do whatever it pleases.

Curious...how did you find Ted and end up using him since you're so far away from OC?

He was suggested to me by my father, I searched him up and he actively posts his work on social media and his website was clear, also him being in california was a big factor too. There isnt anybody local to me that I can go with small engine boring stuff so I had to ship stuff either way.

Just finished printing up a new tach/speedo mount for my new koso gauge.
My previous one was just a quick way to mount a single gauge.

are you going to weld a plate onto the side of the frame? we did this years ago using a triumph kickstand. I have one as well on my lightweight. 

something to consider.

https://ebay.us/m/jGyYmz

The plan was to notch the frame and weld in threaded bungs to bolt the mount to.

Cool bike. Post up some more photos. Are you in So Cal?

Interesting kickstand solution. Cutting off the kickstand mounting tab and rewelding it forward is a common mod. When we used to do local "Wrench-fest" get togethers I remember watching Robakun reweld kickstand brackets in his garage in just a few minutes. I wish I could do it to mine but I can't because the PO powder coated my frame.

How long ago did you work with Boyko? How was your experience with him?

Im in the central valley, I'll need to get more photos as I piece things back together.
Boyko did my topend about a year ago, he was great, sent me lots of photos as he moved along with everything. When he got to my cylinders he did everything quickly, sent them out, and got lucky with usps and got it the next day. His porting is more of a "blueprint" porting, I would definitely send more stuff when I get the chance.

A couple issues I had with my build is that my kickstand would hit my pipes with or without the kickstand relocation kit and have had the kickstand drag a couple times.

Ive read about cutting off the stock point and welding it more forward on the frame, however I did not necessarily like this idea as once its there there would be no changing it especially after powder coat. 

I took inspiration about having a bolt on mount made off a bike in the facebook group, this way if I need/want to change kickstand angle, height, etc I could simply replace the mount itself.




I then 3d printed to mock up and do a few changes and then off to sendcutsend to be made along with a few other things i needed done.

I got my RD400 about two years ago and has been a never ending project as I always want to add to it. I currently have it stripped back down for powder coat, some frame mods, and a couple more "upgrades" while its apart again. So I thought I might as well start a thread on it.

My setup on it was:
Triumph Street Triple / FZR Rotor Brake Setup
Accu Rearsets

HPI Ignition
Topend by Ted Boyko with light porting done and cut heads
Wossner Pistons
Mikuni VM30s
Wicked Motorsports Pipes

 

I just got a set for mine, I realized that the top sticks out like that, I may just run the all balls lowers and stock upper bearings unless someone thinks thats a bad idea for some reason.

What are the thoughts or experiences using after market cables from India and if positive what vendor to choose would help also.
Not sure if these are whats being offered state side now that the RDs are in there 50's (Throttle Cable) really expensive state side, my goal is to do a complete new cable purchase.
I really like to buy from US vendors but money is tight.

Ive had bad luck with cables in general, could just be the repo throttle housing too but ive had one break and both seemed too long, and they were pretty pricey. I ended up making my own individual throttle cables when I went to a dual pull domino throttle then went 2-1 for carbs and 1 for oil pump when I installed my oil pump.

I got my cable kits from Venhill, and I've had some nice cables custom made from Motion Pro before too. It was a little tedious to make them, but well worth it.

I have a pair of Wicked pipes on my 400, definitely better than the DGs that were on it before with good power all around, also like the look of them but its a preference. They have nice little billet silencers and headers. Haven't tried out Spec IIs but I'm sure they are worth the wait.

That thing's sick

Just pulled all of mine out, they were pretty much glued in.
I just used 2 flanged nuts and tightened them together and used the bottom one to unscrew it,
Just used a ton of heat, torch comes in handy at times lol

[06]

fyi the part numbers will sometimes give the info you need. for example, on the engien covers, the number contains the size and length.



1st one: 06 = m6 040 = 40mm

etc. ;)

Interesting, did not catch that.