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and use the discount code ' 2SW' saves some $.

I just recently ,like 3 weeks ago, bought my Vape from John@Economy. yes it is pricey ( about $ 280/290 is just tarriff taxed  ). do buy the upgraded retaining bolt, a new grommet , and I bought the 2 coil brackets , though I could have made it work without. be carful routing the neutral wire too. took me about 1/2 a day to get it up and running. fyi, I marked my timing mark in case I need to pull it back off , for like a pinched neutral wire 

just ran across this one, do you still run a tach? which one, and where do you get the signal from? tia

on my 74 350 , when i got it it had a no charge condition. did all the meter checks and everything passed. put on a Ricks reg/rec and had it charging again. then about 3 weeks later a no charge again! got out the meter installed new brushes i had stuffed away and still no charge. pulled the trigger on a Vape and golden . takes the worry out of several issuies with the factory dynomo system. "No one will ever know" God bless America and never forget !

That's cool Mark, the last check I need to do is output of the stator wires . Do I put the meter leads one on a wire and the other on the battery ground to see if I am getting 30-40 VAC per wire? 

Soooo, to recap on this. The other 74 I sold , caught up to that owner ( and yes his is charging) and pulled the points cover and wham! The correct way to stack the positive brush holder /screw.

ok, thanks for the help. Man, I was getting to the point of thinking about just selling , seems every time I fix one thing some thing else goes bad.it was charging 3 weeks ago,( after new battery and a Ricks reg/rec.) about had my carbs dialed in , sat for 3 weeks then the dreaded no charge AGAIN! going to put new brushes in then go from there.    

So nobody knows? can somebody take a pic from the top side and front. I have tried to look up old micro fich but all the pics are sketchy . John@ economy sent me a pic but it was a front view and still can't really tell. 

is there supposed to be isolation spacers any where for the brush holders ? left side or right side, does the wires from brushes touch wires to the green/leftside  and orange/rightside, and then bolt directly to the stator cover through the holder? trying to diagnose charging issues. TIA,

You could start by charging the battery, then turn the key on and check the voltage going to the brushes. It should be about 10 volts. You also should be able to feel the magnetism of the rotor being energized using a small light screwdriver and holding it near the rotor bolt, as you turn the key on and off.

well, no voltage at the brushes. and the rotor bolt is not magnetize now.battery charge up too.

it was dropping the voltage as it was running. even reving it .

while retiming the bike the rotor was magnetized, I charged the battery and it held 12.5 vdc . I did the drain test with a 12 vdc blinker bulb and it did not drain it down that much( maybe .05 volt?) . guess I have to start back like I did after I bought it and ( found the regulator/ rec bad. replaced with a Ricks and was charging fine) and recheck the brushes / wire to wire on the alt. etc. Damn thing giving me fits!

gonna answer my own question? after some trouble shooting,( rechecked timing, points gap) i found my charging system not working, it was working fine 2 weeks ago tho.  actually it was draining down the battery ( a  fairly new alarm battery, and a fairly new Ricks reg/rec )  and when it hit about below 9 vdc and I turn the light on the bike shut off. last time I checked the brushes and cleaned the ring all checked out . now I am wondering if the reg/rec is faulty? Any way to check it other than replace it 

fyi, I have only put about 260 miles on bike since I bought it 2 summers ago (and it had no spark when I got it home). mostly tuning carbs. When bought: new condenser, new points, coil upgrade, leak down test: good, compression check: good, new battery, new mikes reg/ rec. 

just ran across this. I have a similar (I think) problem on my left side. after many miles of tuning/adjusting my carbs I even went back to verify timing and points gap. put in a set of iridium's and the bike was running pretty good albeit needed some fine tuning in the mid range. bike sat for 2 weeks as I went out of state,  got home fired it up and went for a ride.The left side started popping at higher rpm,came home pulled plugs and the right looked good , left looked wet and fouled . swapped plugs over and did the same again, it did clean up the left plug i put in the right cly. tho, seems to only really  miss when in the higher rpm's? I run pre mix, have the SV coil upgrade . and this bike passed a leak down check when I bought it 2 summers ago, compression was good too.  Hope you RDDAVE stumble upon the fix for yours, it might help mine.I am about over this bike , seems I fix one thing only to find another