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Apparently too many people died after explicitly not following the directions and using it with no ventilation.

Apparently is a word often used when there's no hard evidence to back up a statement (ie. your talking shit!).

I shall now await notification of being banned from the forum. :-)

The RD was my first road bike.

Cool bike! It looks like it's itching to be ridden.

Hopefully someone's got the right info for you to get it running better.

Thats a good deal.Just dont call that a Katana on any European forums

Nor in Australia. :-)

the instructions come with the tool. you are increasing the length so you need to use a 'lower' indicated value.
 below file is the instructions from motion pro. 


 I08-0134_2022_March_update.pdf

And there it is. Thanks Mark!

Does the calculation work out as a general percentage, or is a new calculation needed for different torque settings?

T is the torque value in this case 18 ft lbs for RZ350 cylinder base nuts.
L is the dimension from the center of drive on the torque wrench where a socket goes or in this case the center of the adapter to the center
of the grip on your torque wrench.
you need to adjust the torque wrench setting to compensate for the extended moment arm which I think has to do with the increased leverage provided by the adapter.
A is the length of that extension.
So 18 x 14.5 =261 on the top line.
14.5+3 = 17.5 on the bottom line.
Divide 261 by 17.5 = corrected torque setting  of 14.91 which I will round up to 15.
I used to be a Flight Engineer but I haven't done any math remotely like this in a long long time so please correct me if I am wrong.

In the last twelve months I have had need for one of these tools and almost purchased one. I had no idea a calculation needed to be made to use the tool correctly.

What was your reference for the formula for calculation? Does this come with the tool as instructions, have you sourced these instructions elsewhere, or has a mathematical background told you a calculation needs to be made?

Whatever the way, thanks to you and the forum for this gem of information. Great stuff!  : thumbs:

Would smaller cut-outs mean a stronger piston? Less chance of failure?

It's good to hear a healthy 2 stroke singing.

Good to hear a real-world review of the ebay knock-offs compared to genuine.

Thanks!

Thanks for the tips. 

Hi all,

I've just disassembled a bottom end (2 stroke MX bike) due to a suspected clutch side crank seal or crankcase join leak.

When removing the crank seal, it seemed to come out without much effort and can be fairly easily reinstalled by hand with no tools. Should I be concerned by that?

I have measured both the old and new seal (genuine Yamaha) and they are almost identical in diameter and are approximately .024" (.6mm) larger than the crankcase.

Is a sealant like Threebond an option to apply to the mating surfaces when fitting the new seal?

The removed seal is only ten hours old.

found Emory Cloth strips works better for those than steel wool. You can get rolls of ~1" Emory in different grits and cut off like 6" sections and rub/pull back and forth around the fork tube to get the high spots down and lighten the black color. Sometimes a little oil helps too. Then hit with carb or brake parts cleaner. Rinse

I know of a mechanic who used this as standard procedure whenever replacing fork seals.

So, are they the same? Is one seal rather than 2 going to work okay?

I don't have an answer for you but maybe post a pic of your setup. Could a previous owner have put an extra seal in for some reason?

It does seem to have a steel band in there that may be part of the old seal or may be part of the fork inner, I can't tell.

What was the outcome here? Was it part of the old seal, and how did you end up getting it out?

Along with the lack of details, they can't even be bothered to drag it out of the corner and take some decent photos. Warning signs right there.