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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/811857531863600

MJ Corse will make custom sprockets

Wow, yes they do for pretty much anything. Thanks rodneya, that's quite the resource.

So Cognito Moto did a '07 R1 triples conversion for me that included a new stem and the tapered all balls bearings after sending them the lower triple and it bolted right up, perfect fit using all the original R1 hardware and cost very little, just $250 since I supplied my own triple clamp. Side benefit with the R1 front is the gold forks look killer with the original RD paint.    I'm putting on a 2011 FZ6 swingarm (sitting on the work table with some blue masking tape on the pivot tube) for a monoshock conversion, which requires a bit more hacking and machining but it will be 2" longer than stock and have the same wheelbase as a 2008-2025 CBR600RR. So Smoke, you must be using an offset front sprocket to align with the FZR rear, what or who is helping with that? The guys at sprocket specialists said they won't build a tool for a one off but they didn't totally rule it out either. Fast from the Past does 10mm offsets for the RZ350 but I can't find any for the RDs anywhere so I'll probably have to go to one of the many expensive aerospace machine shops in my hometown (Boulder, CO) who can scan the stock sprocket and produce whatever I need but they are expensive AF.

Roger that, thank you as always for the sage advice.

Ok, I've got a Vape from PD installed and am positioning the rotor...the included documentation says 2mm BTDC with the nose of the rotor 1mm inside the right side of the sensor. But then I looked at the most current online documentation from PD and it suggests 2.5mm-3.0mm BTDC for RD's and the nose exactly flush with the edge of the sensor. Then I found a thread from Chuck Super Tuner that says 1.9mm BTDC. I realize the advance can differ depending on the build so just trying to find the "safe zone" for the advance and the position of the rotor nose relative to the sensor. 2.5mm-3.0mm BTDC seems awfully early but what do I know. (not much admittedly which is why I'm asking). I'd call it a street performance build; '73 250 converted to 350 with the Kveldwolf ebay cylinders with some performance-ish heads with a 20.5cc volume, Boyesen power reeds with 3/8" block extenders, Lectron 30mm flat slides mounted on the larger RZ intake rubbers, running a Vito's crank.

Thoughts?

Old and new

yup, mine is pre-seal confirmed by those pics, thanks! if anybody needs that seal, let me know and i'll just throw it in an envelope with a stamp, save somebody a few bucks.

fair enough m in sc, i think 19 years is proof of concept. :-)

The O-ring 360-11526-00-00 and matching primary gear were updated in the '74 model year.
Starting with RD250A 352-207570 and RD350A 351-218268. Refer to Tech Bulletin M4-038. Prior to that, no O-ring was installed.

That explains that then. This bike is before that update. Thank you!

I shove mine carefully in the hole%pocket there. the long wires are nice so if you have to remove it you have room to swing it out

yeah there's room, i got them all tucked in back there as a test but just seems like so much risk of vibration abrasion with the wires all just smashed together back there. what do you think about some heat resistant 3-5mm ID foam pipe insulation over the wires, would protect from both abrasion and movement.

I've got some ideas, but anybody want to post up pics of how they have tucked in Vape wiring in and around the stator and routed through the case? It's kind of goofy with a lot of slack on the white and yellow wires and none on the rest so you can't really pull everything snug together or get a loom around it. Figure i'll shrink wrap the connector and there is room behind the stator to tuck everything in, but that doesn't feel exactly bullet proof to me. Would love to see some pics of what people have come up with.

yeah, it's interesting, the 250 crank did not have one when I split the cases but I was told to get the seal by one of the RD shops that are frequently referenced here. But it sounds like I don't really need it based on people's comments.

Just to make sure i get this right, this o-ring slides over the right side crankshaft with the connected tab in the keyway and slid all the way on until it contacts the bearing? The tab does not seem to fit into the keyway very elegantly (Vito's 350 crank) so I'm not sure.

Appologize in advance if this is the wrong thread to put a "wanted" in, but attached is a pic of my 250 to 350 '74 RD250A in the "tacking shit up" stage as I build up a sort of retro superbike thing with the heart of an RD. Please ignore the way too long swing arm that makes it look like a busa or a hill climber, i had it lying around and it's just hanging for reference. I would like to play around with a Motolanna swingarm and push my aluminum fab skills (very little) to the limit, but they are currently out of stock and the owner at Motolanna is not sure when he will be making more. This one for the XS: https://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_448876-Swingarm-Aluminum-Alloy-SuperTuff.html

If anybody has one they'd like to get rid of please post up. If this should be moved to a different forum, admins, please move.

Added side note on this project, I am using the Kveldwulf 350 cyls from ebay. They came just a tiny bit out of round and way too little piston clearance (under 1/1000th) but a bit of honing and love from Ron @ HO Motorsports here in Boulder and they are now perfect, including a really nice porting job for the street.

Side note #2, the front end conversion is actually complete, that's a complete 2007 R1 front end with the stock R1 triples and all balls bearings to do the conversion. So easy to do with the help of the guys at Cognitomoto.com getting me the correct size bearings. Super cost effective as well if you use your own clamps, though they make custom triple clamps for almost anything.

'76RD, that brings up an interesting point which is the new vito's crank i am installing does not have the nubs which seemed odd at first. rather it has o-rings aligned with where those nubs line up on the bearings and that's the mechanism that keeps the outer part of the bearing stationary once the cases are back together. And thanks for the note on the bearing retainer rings, yup those are all positioned correctly and ready.

thanks striker, i'm on board with all of that and excited to start putting this thing back together. it will have to just sit for a bit once together while i build up/out the chassis but i just have to enjoy looking at it on my counter until then.