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I can splice in a printed 30 degree section that also lengthens the whole operation. It's a custom from top to bottom so I want to be true to my design vision as I mock it all up and then I'll can deal with whatever engineering issues arise. I Really do appreciate the tips and knowledge.

Am I the only one who's noticed this or is it on purpose? 

So the k&n pods are part of the "look" so i came up with what i think will be a pretty elegant solution to the reversion issue. The back plate/cap is rubber so I cut out the center flush with the inner mesh then cut a disc of foam filter material and siliconed it in. Functionally this removes almost all of the previously impermeable flat surface area on the inside of the cap. Oil it up like the rest of the filter and this should eliminate the reversion issue since any blowback will just pass through now, while preserving the aesthetic I'm going for.

In regards to the EBC carbon clutch plates, I'm not sure about those but per recommendation here on the forum I went with the Caltric FZ600 fiber plates(more surface area and loses the stock rubber damper rings) that are very cheap $$ on Ebay along with heavy duty EBC clutch springs specific to RD350's. Also mix and matching some used Raptor 660 steel plates with my original ones that were in the best shape as I had issues with the clutch slipping and my bike is pretty much stock in terms of power. Yeah my clutch works great now with that setup. Anyways again you'll just have to see how yours is. Looking back on it maybe all I needed was the springs but all those parts were very affordable.

Thanks for the tips, the clutch is fitted with the heavier Barnett springs and hoping that is enough. But yes, this thing will make some good power and slippage could be an issue. Everything on this project will be sort of "well let's see if this works" so I am ok with some wrong turns.

its the reversion off the back plate of the filter thats the issue. either run really long ones, use extention runners, angled ones or all foam ones.

MinSC, can you speak a bit more to that? I am not sure I understand all your suggestions/options since space is already so tight. Is the issue with reversion because of the solid back plate on the pods? Could that be modified with a permeable back plate and eliminate the issue? Not familiar with extension runners and also how do angled pods address the potential reversion issue?

Not a fan of the filters or clamps, but those lectrons look sweet.
Edit - have you checked clearance for the filters when fitted i the frame yet. Not a lot of room back there.

yeah, it's tight and i do have a slightly shorter set of pods if needed.  Why don't you like the clamps? I like a little extra bling and initially I thought the double bead would make a better seal but the flange on the intakes are just a little too short and the 2nd bead keeps the clamps from seating flush so I removed the inner double bead sleeve and now they are just regular clamps but with a little branding. :-)

and yeah, the black creosote Lectron's do look really good and are pretty much a necessity as I live at about 5300' in Boulder and any ride could take me up past 9000'. Lectron tuned the fuel rods and everything to work at those altitudes but we'll see what happens in the real world.

Just finished the motor for a restomod 1974 RD250.

Kveldwulf 350 cylinders and pistons
Vito's crank
Vape ignition
oversize intake boots
reed block spacers
30mm Legacy Evo flat slide Lectrons
performance mod heads
K&N pod filters
EBC carbon clutch
some other minor bits to round it out into a reliable beast


I had to remove a couple mm of material for left carb bowl clearance and also put a tiny 90 degree hose barb to clear the case on the right carb.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/811857531863600

MJ Corse will make custom sprockets

Wow, yes they do for pretty much anything. Thanks rodneya, that's quite the resource.

So Cognito Moto did a '07 R1 triples conversion for me that included a new stem and the tapered all balls bearings after sending them the lower triple and it bolted right up, perfect fit using all the original R1 hardware and cost very little, just $250 since I supplied my own triple clamp. Side benefit with the R1 front is the gold forks look killer with the original RD paint.    I'm putting on a 2011 FZ6 swingarm (sitting on the work table with some blue masking tape on the pivot tube) for a monoshock conversion, which requires a bit more hacking and machining but it will be 2" longer than stock and have the same wheelbase as a 2008-2025 CBR600RR. So Smoke, you must be using an offset front sprocket to align with the FZR rear, what or who is helping with that? The guys at sprocket specialists said they won't build a tool for a one off but they didn't totally rule it out either. Fast from the Past does 10mm offsets for the RZ350 but I can't find any for the RDs anywhere so I'll probably have to go to one of the many expensive aerospace machine shops in my hometown (Boulder, CO) who can scan the stock sprocket and produce whatever I need but they are expensive AF.

Roger that, thank you as always for the sage advice.

Ok, I've got a Vape from PD installed and am positioning the rotor...the included documentation says 2mm BTDC with the nose of the rotor 1mm inside the right side of the sensor. But then I looked at the most current online documentation from PD and it suggests 2.5mm-3.0mm BTDC for RD's and the nose exactly flush with the edge of the sensor. Then I found a thread from Chuck Super Tuner that says 1.9mm BTDC. I realize the advance can differ depending on the build so just trying to find the "safe zone" for the advance and the position of the rotor nose relative to the sensor. 2.5mm-3.0mm BTDC seems awfully early but what do I know. (not much admittedly which is why I'm asking). I'd call it a street performance build; '73 250 converted to 350 with the Kveldwolf ebay cylinders with some performance-ish heads with a 20.5cc volume, Boyesen power reeds with 3/8" block extenders, Lectron 30mm flat slides mounted on the larger RZ intake rubbers, running a Vito's crank.

Thoughts?

Old and new

yup, mine is pre-seal confirmed by those pics, thanks! if anybody needs that seal, let me know and i'll just throw it in an envelope with a stamp, save somebody a few bucks.

fair enough m in sc, i think 19 years is proof of concept. :-)

The O-ring 360-11526-00-00 and matching primary gear were updated in the '74 model year.
Starting with RD250A 352-207570 and RD350A 351-218268. Refer to Tech Bulletin M4-038. Prior to that, no O-ring was installed.

That explains that then. This bike is before that update. Thank you!