Messages

[I'm not too hip on drilling the jets]

I'm not too hip on drilling the jets because now you don't know what size you have and the number stamped on them is wrong. How about going to a local dealer, they normally have jets. Bikes with chambers may not pull well at 5000 rpm in high gear. Have you ridden other RD's that seem to run better?

I believe the internal shape of the jet is not straight-through, and when the shape gets altered the smooth flow does as well.

I checked the powervalve adjustment last night, and they are set correctly.

I made adjustments to the cables, as they had excessive slack.

[Think powervalve opens around 7000?]

It pulled to redline no problem, so the bike kept pulling after 8000, but it is pulling as hard at 11,000 as it was at 8,000
My bike has 40-14 sprockets, which help with the close ratio trans in taking off from a stop, but also help pull redline in more gears before the speed limiter kicks in at the 180 mark.
Think powervalve opens around 7000?

I need to look into how the power valves are adjusted.

Thanks.


Jay

[the lower bearing appears to be fully pressed onto the steering shaft.]

I picked up a project bike and am going through it as the previous owner started restoring it and never finished. He put new tapered steering head bearing within, unsure of brand or where these were purchased. The issue I have is that when installing the steering head shaft into the frame with the new tapered bearings, I only have about ~3 threads exposed to tighten the large castellated nut with the spanner wrench.  Rule is that at least 2 to 3 threads should extend beyond the nut.  The races (upper and lower) appear to be fully seated and the lower bearing appears to be fully pressed onto the steering shaft.  Any thoughts?  I am thinking to remove these and buy new from a known source, any recommendations that do not have this issue?

I would say that lower bearing is not fully seated.

[just stayed flat at 40hp to 11,000]

They are 45 at the crank up to 92, then 93 up all JDM 250's were limited to 40 at the crank. They are CONSIDERABLY lighter weight than a RD400, so that helps the feel too. As well as leading edge 2 stroke chassis design... hope it keeps working for you.
My severely worn 3XV2 pulled a bit over 40hp at the tire at like 8000, and just stayed flat at 40hp to 11,000... no idea how the Japanese can keep control of the dyno curve like that.

Did it flatten out and stop accelerating once it hit 8000?

Mine keeps pulling hard from about 7000 to 10,000 (as high as I've revved it) with no signs of tapering off.

Restricted or not, it does take off pretty well once it hits 7000.

Plenty of power for me.

Finally got the insurance squared away, and rode it for about 10 miles, close to home, last night.

All good, so I rode it about 8 miles to work today.

I know it should be restricted at 50HP or so, but it sure doesn't feel like it.  Maybe my memory is blurred from 40 years since having a RD400 and RZ350, but this thing pulls really hard after 7000.  Harder than I remember the RD or RZ pulling.

It does show some signs of having engine work done at some point, but I have no idea what was done when.

It really drops into corners quickly, and feels small and super light.  My hip did cramp up last night just as I left the house, but got better after that.

So far - so good!

When you open the throttle from idle, does it bog/flatten-out or sputter/stumble?

For starters with the idle mixture screws, setting them to get the highest RPM is a good place to begin.  Usually going slightly richer helps the transition.

Wow - some amazing fabrication work on this!

As noted - close the air screw.  Richer idle mixtures tend to blend better as you start to open the throttle.

To me, it sounds like you could go richer on the needle (moving the clip down) if richening the idle mixture doesn't cure the issue.

Are you using ethanol-free gas?  Gas with ethanol will make your settings leaner.

Higher octane isn't going to help, and may make it run worse, unless you need it to control detonation.

[Please tell me that there is supposed to be some kinda cover there.]

I love how the fuses are laid out in plain sight. Please tell me that there is supposed to be some kinda cover there. I do think this is a pretty cool two wheeled hot rod otherwise.

I don't recall seeing the fuses on my buddy's NS, and it's not like Honda to have them exposed.

That one, to me, looks like trouble.

I should have a chance to take a NS400R for a spin in a few weeks.  My riding buddy just bought one, and he wants to switch to try my TZR at some point.

My initial impression of the Honda is it's overall a bit larger and more of a street bike than the TZR.  It has typical Honda details, compared to the more basic TZR.

It sounds much more muted than the TZR (mine doesn't have the stock silencers, so that may be part of it).

The NS also has a 16" front wheel, which is kind of an oddity at this point.

https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=7670.msg64187#msg64187

Wow - ambitious project!

Making good progress!

Good to see another one brought back from the dead!

I want one for land speed racing.

The ECU flash changes the game completely.

It would be a killer in the P/P 400/450 LSR class.

Have you looked for anyone that does media blasting in the area?

A moderate blasted profile will give you the best adhesion and highest durability compared to sanding.

What paint do you plan to use?  Do you want a flat or semi-gloss finish?

Well, we agree on the Gladius at least.

If I didn't have the 2nd Gen, I could see a 1st Gen, but one SV is enough for me.  It's been great, and does everything I need.

No idea how the 3XV would compare to the 1KT.  I've never even seen one.