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How big does the bolt holes need to be for the hardware.

Do you know how big the ID and the OD need to be on the spacer?

Does the FZR600 rotor need a spacer or can it just bolt straight on?

Sorry if this has been covered a million times already.
I found the info about converting the front brakes with R1/R6 components. So does the R1/R6 rotors just bolt on to the stock rims or do I need spacers/adaptor plate to make it work? Does it matter what year of R1/R6 I take the brake components from? Would it be fine if I ran the calipers on the stock location or do I need to mount the caliper rearward? I would like to retain my stock speedometer if possible.

Does anyone know where I can find a latch assembly for an RD350? The springs on mine broke so now there's not enough tension to close the cap. Also the circlip that holds the pin for latch assembly is missing.

Beautiful looking pipes. What kind of gains are you expecting to make now that they're on the T500?

my jl pipes (for the t500) are on the way, just got the ups notification last night. so, they are shipping. On my rds, I have both spec-iis and Lomas on 2 different bikes, anything over 92-9500 is pure over-rev as that's about where they sign off. both are ported and will spin PAST 10, but the pipes sign off a bit earlier. my rev limiter is set to 10.2 in case of overrev (by a heathy margin). 11k is sort of the death zone and there's no reason to spin a 350 near that high

On your RD's with the spec II's and Loma's  did you have to do a lot of porting on the cylinders?

I heard that JL stopped shipping pipes into the US. I would really like to try a pair of Spec ii pipes. Since I heard they work really well with stock porting. However, I don't know who to get in touch with to try to buy a pair. I remember seeing a website a few months ago but now it's gone.

I would probably just keep the stock intakes instead of the banshee ones with crossover. Do what you will but your bike is pretty much stock with dg and 30mm carbs. How are the 30mm carbs? I assume they are VM


What are you looking to achieve? If you want high rpm hitting pipes, then try to find lomas and spec II. I have an extra set of spec II that I was able to pick up for under 300 bucks locally.

Whats the powerband rev range on JL's and spec ii's? As cool as would be to have my bike be a 10,000+ screamer I know for a fact that with the stock rotor and points my crank or ignition won't like that. I'm going to upgrade to a dyna ignition whenever I get around to doing the top end. My main goals for the bike is pretty much keep it decently streetable but also to have enough power on tap on the freeway to hit the 120mph max on my speedo.

I heard that JL stopped shipping pipes into the US. I would really like to try a pair of Spec ii pipes. Since I heard they work really well with stock porting. However, I don't know who to get in touch with to try to buy a pair. I remember seeing a website a few months ago but now it's gone.

It might help with your mid range transition with those chambers, but i hear the DGs did not do much without modification. Do you currently have an issue with that right now??

No not really. I'm quite happy with my mid range right now. The powerband on the DG pipes doesn't feel peaky on the high end enough to justify a crossover intake. Assuming all the crossover intakes do is help with the low/mid range.
I would like to swap out my DG's for something else one day but I can't seem to find anything else.

I bumped the timing down to 1.8 yesterday and the bike runs a little cooler. I did end up finding out that my spark issues are from my condensers being bad, So I ended swapping those out for some extra condensers I had for my car.
On a side note would a bike with stock porting but bolt on modifications benefit from installing RZ350 intakes with the crossover tubes?

~420 has been the temp that I have always followed. Always try to do a plug chop read to make sure you dont put a hole in the piston as well. What senors are you currently running? Ive used the trail techs in the past.

You shouldn't need to rejet for the reeds. Hows the bike running at its current settings?

Write it down, Google doc or something and go for a long ride and then make the swap to see if there was a change. Doing this has saved me wonders of "what did I do I have in there?" And document the throttle position pull.

I'm using a couple of trail techs. Figured I wouldn't need to change my jetting. In the past whenever I changed reeds it was always with modifications where I had to change jetting. The bike runs well so far. Its a little bit rich on the bottom end and pulls well until I hit about 80mph. On high speed runs I've been noticing that the bike starts to misfire and knock at around 7000rpm. I have the timing set up at 2.00mm BTDC so I'll try to bump it down to 1.8mm BTDC today and see if that fixes my issues.

Planning on doing a top end rebuild on my 74 RD350. The bike has 30mm mikuni carbs and DG pipes. It still has the stock reeds so I'm planning on swapping those out for some TDR reeds. Do I need to rejet for the new reeds? I also put some cylinder head temp sensors on the bike. So I was wondering at what temps should I pull over and stop the bike. Past experience's tells me 400-425 degrees is the max temp before I have to start worrying about soft seizing. Hottest temp I got the RD350 to so far is about 350 degrees.