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Just performed that test and there was no fuel flow reduction over a 2 minute period. The only indication of flow reduction I got when the tank was near empty on reserve. The line that goes to the RH carb started flowing droplets while the line for the LH carb was still flowing albeit weakly. Although I'm not sure if this is any indication of my issues since I try to keep the tank filled above half. Interestingly when I testing the petcock one port at a time if I pulled off the plug off one of the fuel port with a hose on the other the open fuel port wouldn't spill any gas unless I hooked a fuel line back onto it.

could be the petcock flow, tank vent, etc. what size mains are in there?

220 mains right now

is it in 4th 5th and 6th? but 1,2 3 ok? might be starving the bowl

1,2,3 is fine, 4th starts hesitating a little once I hit 8k and at 5th and 6th power curves completely flattens out at 7k. If I'm cruising below 7000 in 5th or 6th the bike acts fine, it only really occurs during hard acceleration in my top gears.

If it is starving the bowl, what would I need to do to remedy it?

I've been trying to re-jet the bike since I did the top end. I did check the carb sync by looking at slide movement with a mirror and they are synced up and I double checked my timing to verify that it is firing a 2mm btdc. I've had to bump the pilot jet up from a 27.5 to a 35 to get it to idle well. Right now, I'm stumped on my main. Once I get past 7000rpm above 4th gear the power becomes flat. The revs keep climbing slightly and then they go back down. So I'm not sure if it's an issue with my main jet or if my clutch is worn out.

For those of you running CHT gauges what kind of temp variance are y'all seeing between your cylinders? I've been seeing an average of 10°-20° CHT difference between my left and right cylinders and spikes of 30°-40° during wot.

Upon testing fitting my pistons I noticed that the piston seems to have a tighter fit at the bottom of the cylinders. Then, once it get closer to the ports the fit becomes looser. How concerned of this should I be or can I just run it as is? Right now I'm under the assumption that the only reason it's like that is because the looser part of the cylinder see's much more wear than the bottom. My cylinders are stock bore and I'm using a pair of 64mm ProX pistons. I measured my ring gap at around .009 inches

Doing a top end on my RD350. Kind of a noob question, but which way should I orient the piston circlip?
Also how can I ID my cylinders as OEM yamaha cylinders or Chinese ebay cylinders? It seems like someone has been in this motor before me.
 

What thickness have did all of you settle on for the rotor spacer? The place I work at has a machine shop so it's really easy for me to ask the machinists to make whatever parts I need on the fly. So far, I've had them make a 13mm spacer. Should I get more made of different thicknesses in case I need to play around with spacing? The bracket and spacer is being made of 6061 aluminum and the bracket has a thickness of 10mm.

What length and grade for the caliper and rotor bolts are recommended?

Thanks for all the info. I don't have any of the components on hand so I couldn't take measurements myself

How big does the bolt holes need to be for the hardware.

Do you know how big the ID and the OD need to be on the spacer?

Does the FZR600 rotor need a spacer or can it just bolt straight on?

Sorry if this has been covered a million times already.
I found the info about converting the front brakes with R1/R6 components. So does the R1/R6 rotors just bolt on to the stock rims or do I need spacers/adaptor plate to make it work? Does it matter what year of R1/R6 I take the brake components from? Would it be fine if I ran the calipers on the stock location or do I need to mount the caliper rearward? I would like to retain my stock speedometer if possible.

Does anyone know where I can find a latch assembly for an RD350? The springs on mine broke so now there's not enough tension to close the cap. Also the circlip that holds the pin for latch assembly is missing.

Beautiful looking pipes. What kind of gains are you expecting to make now that they're on the T500?