Messages

How have y'all typically dealt with large elevation changes while you're riding?
I've been thinking about doing a ride from Seattle, WA to Leavenworth, WA on my RD350 for a while now. However I'm not sure how my bike is going to act, as the ride starts out at sea level, hits a peak of 4,000' around stevens pass and then goes back down to 1,168' at leavenworth.
I know the rule of thumb is to lean out your jetting every 2000' of elevation so should I just be prepared to stop at the side of the road to swap out jets? The highest I've ever taken my bike is from sea level to 2000' and I didn't notice any ill effects while riding around there.

Anyone got any measurements for the sizes of the O-rings in the stock steering damper? Mine is leaking a bunch of oil and I can't seem to find any rebuild kits for the stock steering dampers.

What kind of ohmic values should I be getting from my stator and rectifier? I'm reading taking my readings from the white connector that hooks up the stator to the rectifier. From my stator I'm getting a reading of .6Ω from each connector and from my rectifier I keep getting 11kΩ from each connector. Assuming I'm not taking my measurements wrong does this mean either/both my rectifier and stator are basically fried now?

Some notes to make about the wiring that I see so far; PO removed the turn signals and converted the stock glass fuse to a blade type fuse. Also for some reason they cut off the brown wire coming from the voltage regulator output and hooked it with the red wire coming out of the fuse block.

I was riding around on my RD350 and then it died suddenly. I took a look at my 20A fuse and saw that it was blown. Tried plugging in a new fuse and it would instantly blow the moment the contacts begin to touch.
Any ideas on what to check?

Just performed that test and there was no fuel flow reduction over a 2 minute period. The only indication of flow reduction I got when the tank was near empty on reserve. The line that goes to the RH carb started flowing droplets while the line for the LH carb was still flowing albeit weakly. Although I'm not sure if this is any indication of my issues since I try to keep the tank filled above half. Interestingly when I testing the petcock one port at a time if I pulled off the plug off one of the fuel port with a hose on the other the open fuel port wouldn't spill any gas unless I hooked a fuel line back onto it.

could be the petcock flow, tank vent, etc. what size mains are in there?

220 mains right now

is it in 4th 5th and 6th? but 1,2 3 ok? might be starving the bowl

1,2,3 is fine, 4th starts hesitating a little once I hit 8k and at 5th and 6th power curves completely flattens out at 7k. If I'm cruising below 7000 in 5th or 6th the bike acts fine, it only really occurs during hard acceleration in my top gears.

If it is starving the bowl, what would I need to do to remedy it?

I've been trying to re-jet the bike since I did the top end. I did check the carb sync by looking at slide movement with a mirror and they are synced up and I double checked my timing to verify that it is firing a 2mm btdc. I've had to bump the pilot jet up from a 27.5 to a 35 to get it to idle well. Right now, I'm stumped on my main. Once I get past 7000rpm above 4th gear the power becomes flat. The revs keep climbing slightly and then they go back down. So I'm not sure if it's an issue with my main jet or if my clutch is worn out.

For those of you running CHT gauges what kind of temp variance are y'all seeing between your cylinders? I've been seeing an average of 10°-20° CHT difference between my left and right cylinders and spikes of 30°-40° during wot.

Upon testing fitting my pistons I noticed that the piston seems to have a tighter fit at the bottom of the cylinders. Then, once it get closer to the ports the fit becomes looser. How concerned of this should I be or can I just run it as is? Right now I'm under the assumption that the only reason it's like that is because the looser part of the cylinder see's much more wear than the bottom. My cylinders are stock bore and I'm using a pair of 64mm ProX pistons. I measured my ring gap at around .009 inches

Doing a top end on my RD350. Kind of a noob question, but which way should I orient the piston circlip?
Also how can I ID my cylinders as OEM yamaha cylinders or Chinese ebay cylinders? It seems like someone has been in this motor before me.
 

What thickness have did all of you settle on for the rotor spacer? The place I work at has a machine shop so it's really easy for me to ask the machinists to make whatever parts I need on the fly. So far, I've had them make a 13mm spacer. Should I get more made of different thicknesses in case I need to play around with spacing? The bracket and spacer is being made of 6061 aluminum and the bracket has a thickness of 10mm.

What length and grade for the caliper and rotor bolts are recommended?

Thanks for all the info. I don't have any of the components on hand so I couldn't take measurements myself

How big does the bolt holes need to be for the hardware.