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Thanks for the input guys! The Cagiva frame looks appealing. I think I spotted one recently as well. I'm afraid it would be tiny for my 230# 6'3 ass, but DAMN, it looks good!

The only reason I think about a FZR600 frame is availability. I've seen one 400 frame, that coincidentally, a friend recently purchased.

RZ or RD frame is still an option, but I'd much rather RZ. Problem is finding one for a reasonable price.

As far as an RZ, by the time everything is sourced and paid for, it almost makes more sense to just buy a complete bike. I should have prefaced, I'm not necessarily looking for a stock RZ. Something with more modern suspension, brakes etc.

Yes, it would be slower than an R6, but that doesn't bother me in the least. Parts and complete bikes are very plentiful, and cheap. I'd really prefer an MT07 over an R6.  It was more so the example of frame.

I have a friend that bolted one into an RD, and it's relatively simple, but I'd like to spice up the stable vs another RD. I love my RD, but something a little different.

Agreed. I have seen several on a GS500F chassis, which also has a removable cradle. My big butt would probably benefit from something slightly larger.

I'd love to pursue an MT07 or R6, but I'm not sure if I have the skillset to do so safely. Namely, welding reinforcement onto an aluminum chassis (if it's even needed!)

I recently scored a 421 stroker banshee engine, with serval cylinders, cool head, etc. No part of the engine has ever seen fuel. Even the cases are NOS.

I'm wrestling with which frame to choose for this engines resting place. I have gone back and forth with myself and friends for several days now. I have ruled out an RZ frame, as it would cost just as much to buy a quality used one, than to try and build one.

Let's take a modern R6, CBR, MT07, etc as an example. These frames do not employ a cradle like an RD, RZ, FZR, FZ, etc. They almost hang from the frame. On a more modern bike, (I ASSUME) the engine is used as part of the structural integrity of the chassis. (If I am wrong, PLEASE tell me. It could save a lot of headache and time).

Assuming this is true, and I wanted to fabricate mounts in order to install this engine into a more modern aluminum alloy frame, would I need to reinforce the frame, as the engine that was designed for this chassis, is no longer present.

I've heard 2 different schools of thought. I know anything can be done with endless budgets and a machine shop. I'd like to hear your opinions as to whether or not reinforcing the actual frame is critical in this example. Any and all feedback is welcome!

Currently between an FZR600 (steel cradle) or something more modern such as R6, or MT07, etc. I look forward to the discussion

Having fooled with switches on my bike for the last 4 weeks, you'll save yourself a significant amount of headache by replacing it with a repop or finding one on eBay.

I looked at mine, and can't see how it would come apart without a fair bit of force.

Installed new regulator rectifier from Economy Cycle. Battery is definitely charging, but the voltage seems high at idle. Anywhere between 14v-15.3v. I took the RPMs up to roughly 3500, and it capped out at around 15.3v.

Note, there are no other electronics on the bike, aside from the coils. No headlight, taillight, dash light, etc.

This seems high. I have a lithium battery that's almost brand new if that makes a difference. Thoughts?

You're probably right. I checked every power wire and ground last night. All stable and in working order. I know the rectifier is original to the bike. Ended up buying a new reg/rec unit Economy Cycle with some proper electrical connectors. Holy shit. What a painfully long lesson.

It is not charging. The insane part is since last play, I recharged the battery, turned to the ON position, and now for some completely unexplainable reason, the voltage is stable.

It's as though when the bike gets warm, it starts dumping voltage.

Back to the drawing board. I tightened up the power wire from the stator to the coils. Before starting the bike, I could turn the key ON with the switch the the RUN position.  Voltage would dip .20-.25v and remain steady. Battery held a charge overnight for 3 days.

Now that I have run the bike for maybe 1-2 miles, I'm back to square one. Started with 12.8v, 2 miles later, I'm at 12.3v. This includes continuous revving.

With the key and run switch in the ON position, I'm getting heavy voltage drop. Bike is not running. If I start the bike, rev it out, it seems relatively stable, but voltage definitely is not climbing.

Assuming I don't have an unproved short to ground, Could this be a sign of failing coils, ignition, or regulator/rectifier? Note, there are no lights at all on the bike. The only thing that SHOULD be drawing power is the coils.

I've sure wasted a lot of time searching for nothing    Thanks for confirming

I think it's solved. The respective coil does get warm, but I discovered that it's directly related to the position of the crank. That cost a fair bit of time. Voltage is not dropping at the battery.

What still puzzles me is the spark plug on the active coil side, has a small discharge when turning the key to the off position. I can control which spark plug dose this, by rotating the crank.

All this to ask, is that somewhat normal? It's a small pop. Nothing like when it's kicked over. Just seems unusual to me.

Correcting the black wire seemed to cure the heat and key induced spark. Problem may be solved so long as it charges (which it was not).

I'll double check, but the harness hasn't been touched since my ownership. Bike ran perfectly fine prior to this. It's also draining the battery when the coils are energized. Not falling and staying steady, but draining.

Since posting, I pulled the lower/case boot off yet again, and noticed the black wire between the stator and regulator practically fell out of its connector with no force. I'm assuming it's some type of ground wire.

I'm aware this may be a lost cause over the internet, but I'm trying anyway. These are all new symptoms. I have a Dyna S ignition with Economy Cycle coils. After 6 days, I'm not sure where to look anymore. I know very little about what has been done with this bike by previous owners. The electrical system is as it was when purchased.

Current symptoms is the bike has spark from both coils when turning the key to the OFF position and #2 (final) position. Kill switch is set to RUN. Note, the bike only runs in the #1 (middle) position.  Also, both coils are hot to touch in this position. Coils reading 4 ohms when tested/battery disconnected.

I've cleaned the hell out of the grounds. All wires related to the coils are in decent shape and well wrapped. Beyond re-wiring the whole bike, and buying a more modern ignition, I'm at a total loss. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Kawi. How's the low-mid range? I have nice throttle response at roughly 3K RPM. Power comes around 6500.