Messages

Looks like a nice example of a aluminum frame 500. Pricey, but comes with a California title and some nice/spare parts.1984 RZ500R

RZ500 project SoCal Craigslist, disassembled, some spares. Seems high for a bike that has been down and potentially incomplete, what do you think?
RZ500 project

 Probably a dumb question but have you measured sag? Sounds like the bike is diving too much under braking and giving the rear a uneasy/loose feeling and makes me wonder if the front/rear spring rates are way off relative to each other.

While I do believe you have some underlying geometry issues due to fork/shock lengths I wonder if incorrectly matched spring rates are giving the bike a Dr. Jekyll/Mr. Hyde effect when the weight transfers.

May not be your cup of tea but I picked up a 20 Triumph Speed Twin a few months ago and am really enjoying it. A ton of torque, great handling, nice brakes and a seat/ergos good enough for all day rides. Really a great balance between sport and comfort with great styling to boot. Geared a bit low for long freeway rides but a absolute riot on twisty 2 lanes. I paid 9k for mine with 2500 miles on it, not the easiest bike to find used but they are out there.

Looks tastefully done.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mcy/d/burbank-very-clean-76-suzuki-gt-500/7496990112.html

Looks like this guy is selling his collection
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/mcy/d/santa-monica-yamaha-tz-350-and-tr3/7493511334.html

Okay, there is some cool stuff going on here.

Looks like this guy made the engine in his garage. 2 row radial type cylinder arrangement with a open/common pressurized crankcase(kinda like a Detroit Diesel) and 5 little rather than 1 big roots style blowers to make the pressure. Obviously made for the enjoyment of the design rather than practicality but very impressive. I like how he used existing pistons, cylinders and rods to avoid having to do any casting, all done on a mill or lathe. I especially like how he adapted it to the existing bikes crankcase by replacing the original crankshaft with a straight shaft and a spriral bevel gear driven by the new crankshaft...genius!

Heres a bit more;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCoBtMT7_Ds

Here's a interesting one.
https://santabarbara.craigslist.org/mcy/d/santa-barbara-1966-yamaha-ascot/7371121676.html

 What exactly is the situation? is the bike currently registered in CA? Is it coming into CA from out of state? Has the bike been registered in CA in the past but has fallen out of the system?

I don't recall any issues with the coils but never tried to fit the stock seat so can't help with that.

Yes, the front mount is the same. The rear mount is a pretty simple procedure to fab up, weld some tabs to the frame with some nuts welded to the bottom to accept the rear flanges on the 400 tank and use the factory 400 rubber pieces to make a nice clean install. Here is a couple of pics of how I did mine(I also integrated the front mount for my rear section in the mount).

 Did you ever ride the bike with the 25 pilots before installing the 22.5s?

I may be wrong but I thought brake pistons were ground to the final finish/dimension.

Looks like this guy has some nice stuff
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/d/rancho-cucamonga-rds-for-sale/7258204418.html

  I whipped up this one when I did the carbs on my 75 CB400f. The rack system and the total PITA it is to remove the airbox on that bike made my normal setting methods too time consuming to be practical. It is super accurate and has excellent resolution, so much that I had to put some old pilot jets inline of each hose to dampen the pulses and dull down its "reactiveness". Total cost was around $20.00 and worked well.

That being said, for bikes that have easy access to the carb slides and separate cables per carb I usually just set the slides equally, make sure they lift equally using the drop method with equally sized drill bits and set the mixture screws equally and that usually gets pretty close, beyond that a tach and careful listening can usually get me the rest of the way there by tweaking the mixture screws. Of course, that's usually on twins, I'd imagine that a triple would make that method at least 50% harder.