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Almost done installing Vape on my 77 TD400 . Had to remove material from pick up and side cover to enable cover to sit flush. I set  static timing (with Supertunres notes) with relationship of pick up to rotor. I have verified voltage is good and ignition relay operating.  Now need to add pointer and mark rotor to verify timing with my old Craftsman timing light. If timing is off, I want between 1.8 and 2.0 btc can I adjust by moving pickup  side to side ? Clearance is almost 0 to cover. or do i have pull rotor and reset on crank?

Whats the best way to remove 43 year old decals from the plastic side covers ? Just ordered new decals just doing side covers leaving tank alone its original stickers and paint pretty good. I also bought rattle can of original Chappy red to repaint covers.
Thanks in advance 

Since you are using the injector pump as I am you can not run Castor oils like Castor 927. It will tell you on bottle if ok for injector , premix or both. I run Motol 710 full synthetic ester oil pricey but lasts many tankfuls , i figure why cut corners on lubricating my $1000.00 plus rebuild. I also do add one capful of Castol 927 in tank for that wonderful smell and 20 mls of Stabil Performace 360 to gas tank to help with the lousy 10% ethanol added to gas  . 

I had to bag and tag to keep me organized and sane , many , many pics, the Haynes manual was very useful and impact ( air or electric) on crank, clutch and drive nut made life easy and put  less stress on tranny . Spent a lot of time carefuly cleaning case mating surfaces with razor blades , alcohol and scuff pads, then used Threebond to seal it. . Also made a leak down test kit which by using found several leaks on manifolds, but was able to seal and held 6 psig for like an hour.
Good luck , I think working on bikes is as much fun as riding them     

I like the left one the one on right too busy for me , its your  pick. Im thinking about drilling mine in this winter

I have had a Bike Master Lithium Ion DLPP%L-BS , 1.5 lbs holds charge all winter no problems

Forth pic

 I was under the impression from Coolheads pics and what M in SC said that the cone on the DGs were not very " Coneish" and when you cut away silencer you could reshape the cone and add the non existent stinger. Since like the Tyga shorty is 1'' I was going to get 1'' EMT or mild steal , sounds like i should get 3/4'' instead and get 3/4'' to 1'' reducer.
From watching some videos  by Dave AUmechanic  on how to design expansion chambers it all gets a bit intimidating.
If I dont modify and switch chambers which brand can you buy that are better than DGs and can keep the stock pegs without going to rear sets?
Or could you modify cone and add stinger internally and just put cans back?
I found in my paper library Coolheads pics and one post on subject, I scanned them in

I found these Tyga's not sure if they are the shortys , they have 26.50 mm inlet , for stinger  1'' EMT is    27mm ,1.163''.

Does anyone have any info, pics or specs on how to do stinger and silencer modification on RD400 DG chambers ?. The old site had some info that I think was done by Coolhead using 3/4'' emt and reusing DG silencer with mods to that.
The DG's exhaust outlet stock is 1 1/8''.
It also said the stinger most be smaller than perf tube. Just purchased a flux welder to fix lawn mower, DG's next.
Anyone else done it?

In HVAC business we use the UV dyes on hard to find refrigerant leaks.  It is designed to run with refrigeration oil which is one of the most highly refined oils out there. You could probably add a 1/2 oz or so to tranny , run it abit then get out your black light and an old Jimmi Hendrix Felt Black light poster and look for fluorescent yellow :)    It does work.

Your Welcome, I drilled and tapped threads and  put in the 2 mm air jets . I was not hard . Good luck!

Here you go it is 0.70 thread, this is from Dale Alexander instruction  mods

Purchase the 2mm correction jet from Sudco or
Rocky. Buy a 4mm X.0.70 tap and a number 30 drill. Use
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/dale/dale-faq.htm
the drill to drill out the stock .6mm air jet Fig 2. The
drill should catch the air jet and spin it out. Use the tap
drill to tap threads into the new hole. Stop when the
tap gets tight as it should bottom in the hole. When
finished, insert the 2mm air correction jet and marvel
at how easy it was to turn a street bike carb into a carb
with a racing heritage!

I found the drive bearing had spun on my 77 400 had 28,000 miles don't know if I was the first to split cases or not, replaced bearing like $28.00 and used loctite sleeve retainer 640 it says " high strength" the 620 says for high high temp and large gaps

I picked up some Moul 710 at local Cycle store ($18.95) OUCH   and yes it appears thinner than the Yamalube R . Probably should have just picked up Yamlube S at $1095.  Checked the injector pump travel at 0.010" and my compression at 120 psig . Will recheck timing and get ready for heat cycles :)