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I don't think any are stock Daytona foot pegs.  They do not look like the stock pegs on my Daytona.

Thank you very much gentlemen. 

I will take it down to 250's and see how it runs.

Finally had some time to work on the Daytona.

I went with Mark's suggestion.  Thank you.

 Anyway, runs pretty well/smooth up until 3/4 throttle, around 6,ooo to 6,500 rpm and then it will bog.  When I accelerate slowly it has less bog at that level compared to quick acceleration. Hopefully that makes sense.

Not sure, but I am guessing I need to go from the 270 main to a 260???

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Russell

Nice guys.  I'm on Maui working the Lahaina disaster as a volunteer.
Was wondering where you guys are based.

We're both on Oahu.  I live in the middle of the island.

Thanks for helping the people of Lahaina town.  Terrible tragedy.

Are with the Red Cross?

Hard to see in the pic, but it looks like the flange that goes on the stinger is cracked. Remove the can and packing, clean up the inside of the flange and run a weld around the pipe.   

Got it.

Thanks

The right side can has started to become loose/wiggles.  I am not sure exactly how to fix it.  The first pictures shows where smoke exits leaving some oil residue.  That is where it is coming loose.

I am guessing that I need to pull the circular clip seen in the first picture and then the safety wire in the end of the can and pull it off.  Not sure if I will need some kind of sealant at that point or not.

Any advice on this procedure would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Here's the other pic.

Final update.

I decided to go with Wicked Motorsport head.  I was not confident that the modified stock head would not leak again.  Thanks rodneya for the information on Wicked motor sports earlier in the thread.

I am very happy with their product.  Roger at Wicked motorsports was very helpful and patient with my novice questions.

The bike runs pretty well, and most importantly, no coolant leaks.

Thank you to all who chimed in.









The Ypvs cable adj. lock nuts did not bother me until I saw them in the picture.

Thank you very much Mark.

Any recommendation on a good starting point for my rd400. I had the top end rebuilt and ported for the street. It has:

-Mikuni VM 28, Dave f mod
-cross over tube
-boyseen reeds
-y boot, k&n filter
-oil injection
-DG chambers

Before it was ported the main was #115 and the pilot was #25.

Thanks

Did the spark plugs and combustion chambers look the same? Coolant in the combustion chamber will clean the carbon out but if the coolant was coming out the top of the dome insert that's not in the combustion chamber.

The right plug looked more oily then the left plug.  The combustion chambers looked the same.

@RDnuTZ-checked the trans fluid.  Looks good.  The coolant that came out or the radiator was also good.

Definitely not rushing it.  This will be the third time trying to fix this leak.  Not fun.

weird they are not the same. but i wouldn't sweat it. is the RH crank seal fresh-ish?

I thought the same thing. 

I did not rebuild this motor.  However, all seals should be new.  Although, the leak I am dealing with came with this newly rebuilt motor.  So, ???

Well, l removed the head to my rz to fix a coolant leak coming from the top of the dome insert.  It only has 8 miles on the motor.  The bike ran well but I discovered the coolant leak. 

Picture of the two piston are below.  There was no evidence that the coolant was entering into the cylinder.


I was wondering how concerned I need to be?  Any thoughts?

Thanks

Emailed the files to you 

Thanks Russ!

Russ,
I think I have what you're looking for. Check your PMs. I can email it to you.

Will do.

Thank you very much.