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Much appreciated, I have a Mitsubishi dealer in my hometown, will reach out.  Thanks for the info

I searched the forum first, with nothing appreciable so here goes. I recently acquired a 74 RD350 and am going thru it. Thru a search it was called Ruby Red. Short of going to a paint shop and having it color matched, was wondering if anyone has found an automotive touch up paint that is "close" to the factory color.  This bike is a nice quality driver that is original, just looking for a code/car/year that was manufactured so I can acquire a touch up bottle.  I know paints have variances and hues, not interested in a perfect match just something close.  Thanks

Thanks so much, very appreciative

I am on vacation and have the time to find some parts and pieces for my bike.  I searched the forum and found some answers, but not definitive.  I was wondering if anyone knew the socket size that fits the rear axle for a 350 (both the axle and the sprocket hub).  I want to buy a combo spanner wrench and am unsure of the exact size.

Thanks, Brian

Much appreciated, will try this trick when home from vacation

I bought another 74 RD350 a few weeks ago and am going thru it.  The bike runs but needs some TLC.  The tachometer seems like it is slow to respond when the rpms's rise (as compared to my 75 350).  I removed all the control cables and lubed these, all move freely within the casings. The tach cable is properly connected on both ends, and "spins" with it disconnected from the tachometer.  Every once in a while while revving it seems to catch up and report what I feel is proper.  Assuming the tachometer is at fault, has anyone seen this behavior before?

Just picked up a 74 RD350 and going thru it.  I am looking at sprockets and I cant seem to find a 40 tooth rear, only 39 tooth.  I bought a new DID non o-ring chain (530- 92 link) and am looking at new 15 tooth front sprockets, as mentioned earlier the only 40 tooth I could find is for an RZ. All the different sites I have found have 15/39 tooth combos.  Will the 40 tooth RZ fit or am I overthinking this and should just buy the 39 tooth?  Thanks in advance.

Was wondering if anyone knew offhand the length of the exhaust springs that attached the chamber to the flange?  I measured the inside dimension of hooks on the chambers and the flange  and it came out to 60.07 mm, was wondering if a 55 mm spring would be too much of a stretch (don't want to pull off a tab) and thought that a 58mm would not be enough.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks

Has anyone used these in the past?  Was looking at their website yesterday and they have Japanese "equivalents", but no brand that I could see in the pictures.  Pricing for 4 new bearings and a new Labryinth seal is less than $100 US, without shipping, seemed pretty reasonable.  Wanted to get some thoughts from anyone who has used.  Thanks, Brian

I read in the forum tech section that the steel plates can vary in thickness based upon model these are sourced from and advice was to use the stock OEM.  It is a pain draining oil, removing side cover and stack-up for reassembly.  Will most likely just use friction as you had advised and keep my steels (will inspect for any hot spots or bluing prior). Thinking stock springs are adequate, used Barnett springs in the past and significant pull required.

I found this on eBay for a 1987 to 1992 FZR1000.  Has 9 friction discs, 8 steel discs and 6 springs with free shipping.  Seems pretty reasonable.

Hi All,

I have been researching the forum regarding the use of these plates verses the stock RD plates.  I had a YZ clutch in my 73 that I purchased from Chuck Q when he was still in business.  I sold that bike and am slowly getting my 75 RD up to snuff.  That stated, what is the best brand clutch to purchase in regards to cost/functionality/reliability?  I purveyed some other forums and heard horror stories of some of the cheap brands exploding and taking out bottom ends, don't want to go that route. Was thinking Yamaha OEM, but have some time as I cannot wrench due to rotator cuff surgery, looking at all options before pulling the trigger. I wanted to get feedback from who performed this and where they purchased.

Thanks, Brian

I had a older set of DG's that were dented in the bottom from loading onto a truck without adequate clearance.  I purchased a kit from eBay that pressurized the pipes, then you heated with an acetylene torch to massage the dent out.  It was a little sketchy and I had the plug pointed away from anything valuable in case it let go.  Worked pretty good, with exception of deep creases. Just an FYI, kit was about 130 bucks. Hardest thing was getting a good seal as the DG's had a pop riveted plate on it and would leak.  I removed this, JB welded it and then once completed, sanded it all down and painted. 

After much back and forth, ended up with a 10 foot long aluminum ramp rated at 600 pounds that folds in half verses a hitch carrier. Heavily discounted for $99, all in at $120 shipped to my door, Titan brand arched.

Only putting an RD on it, ~350 pounds "wet".  I have heard horror stories of these bending, still on the fence about this or a ramp.  With the low ground clearance, ramps are a pain.  What does your bike weigh that you have on your van?