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I'm running a powerdynamo system and would like to use a digital tach. I can't figure out which wire to tap to get the signal. The tach it a koso and can switch form a positive signal or a negative signal. My thought was that the yellow wire going to the coil would be the signal. Any help is greatly appreciated

An update. I went back and checked timing and it was off. It was set at almost top dead center so I reset it at 2mm before. Made a Dial indicator holder out of a spark plug non-fouler, like the one someone posted on here. Correct timing made a huge difference as you can imagine. I ended up with a leak at the right pipe. A bad O-ring so try sourcing one the right size.

As far as the crossover tube. The way I have read is that these carbs were designed with out one and using one can mask some jetting issues. But I really have no experience with this.

I actually had just found that link.

The plugs looked wet. No real color on them.

I pulled a set of carbs form my buddies rd350.
They have:
27.5 pilots
190  Mains
514  needles
3rd  needle clip
1 1/4 turns out

Installed new plugs. It sounded a little crisper. At 3/4 throttle while riding to would break up. It would not get into the pipe. I was hoping for more answers with swapping carbs.

I read on this forum something about cutting ~2mm off the scoop of the needle jet for the Dave F carb mod. I read through the instruction again and didn't find anything about cutting it down.

I just went out and pulled the slides and it's cut is facing rearward.

You can let the clutch out and get moving but you can open throttle wide open and no acceleration. I know they can have some hesitation or lag but you can hold it open and it doesn't rev any higher.

Hello everyone, This past year I have rebuilt my 1974 rd350 in to a cafe racer. I hand made an oil tank tail section and seat. I Installed USD forks from a Honda grom, made some rear sets. I add a speedo/tach into the stock headlamp bucket. The engine was torn down and transmission inspected. I removed all the casting bosses from the cases and smoothed it out. I also tore the crank apart cleaned the flywheels installed new long brand rods with all new bearing and trued the crank. It has a powerdynamo ignition system.  The bike was selected for Old bike barn's Greasy Dozen builders collective which happens on memorial weekend in Columbus,OH. I was short on time and money so I had cleaned the stock pistons and cylinders. I had measured the bores with a cheap electronic bore gage and all seemed well so I installed new rings and put it back together. I got It started 2 hrs before we loaded it up to make the 1400 mile trip from Colorado. It would start and idle, you could ride it around the block but it wouldn't make any real power. It wouldn't get into pipe. I tried different pilots and mains but after a compression test I had 91 psi on left and 93 psi on right. I decided to pull the top end off and have it actually measured. We found the cylinders were egg shaped. Which wasn't really a big surprise the motor has 18.5k miles on the stock pistons. So I had cylinders bored and honed and a new set of pro-x pistons. I fired the motor to day and it would rev up from idle easier now than before but still doesn't make power. I was hoping that someone could give me an idea of where I should start with jet sizes. My current set up is this. Powerdynamo ignition set at 2mm before TDC, Y boot with K&N, I did the Dave F carb mod the kit economy cycle sells (drilled the air jet, installed new needle jet, new needle with clip in middle, 30 pilots, 200 mains) new Yamaha banshee manifolds (crossovers capped for now) Vforce 3 carbon fiber reeds (kz85 I think?) JL Chambers (street/race). I live in Colorado elevation here is 5000 ft. The bike didn't run when I bought it, and now i have changed everything and don't know where to start with jetting.

I haven't figured out how to resize my pictures to post. The build of the bike can be seen on Instagram @jake_shellito

I took a stock rd350 headlight and put an led bulb in it. You have to take a screwdriver and bend all the ears that hold the bulb part in.  Take the washer and o-ring out. Then I used a pair of pliers to pull out the filament. It left a thin glass bulb in side the lens. I used a screwdriver to break it up and dump it out. I then took a cheap H4 LED I had and cut the ears off so it matched the size of the washer that I removed. Put the bulb in them o-ring and last the washer tap the ears back down to seal it all up and you have a factory lens with an led bulb.

When I figure out how to resize my photos I will post some pics.