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Thanks for the welcome back, lads. Having someone else's bone marrow/immune system can be a bit of a chore at times. Not complaining tho.. at least Im here to talk about it.

I emailed a few places. Only one has machining ability, he said theres no need to center and dowel the head, they just machine the bowel deep and wide enough to avoid piston hitting it. Also said he sees these old head domes sometimes machined off center to begin with.

I need to find what my squish is before deciding if its even worth it. I think I like the idea of having it done more than the HP Id gain. I only bomb around town and it has plenty power for that.

I'll get the VAPE programmer eventually and put in a safe curve. I really liked the extra pull when I had the HPI on it. Gear it to drop rpms a bit and will call it a day. I think 500 rpm less.. just to settle the bike a little.

thats a lot to unpack, sorry you had to deal w all this.

as far as heads.. man, good q. maybe ed toomey or wicked motorsports? it def helps.

ya i wrote a book there lol

Thanks for those suggestions. I will contact them and get that ball rolling.

Youre RD is gorgeous.

Hello again, I'm back.

Had to disappear for a year and a half... got leukemia 20 years ago, did chemo and bone marrow transplant but I still have issues, nothing that will kill me off but still a massive nuisance.

Still have all the parts for EFI project but I dont really have the strength and drive to tackle it now. I sold all my bikes and sled as well. Was about to sell the RD but decided not to. Was worried once my health returns Id regret it because Id never find another stock RD, and here we are.. Im feeling better and thank god I didnt let it go.

Im not going down the EFI road now.. just dont have the energy and as much as Id love to dig my teeth into that project and I dont fancy being in the garage touching gas and breathing it.

Last mod I made to bike was replacing the HPI ignition with a Vape unit. The ignition curve on the HPI was amazing, the bike really pulled so much harder but I didnt like the tiny weightless flywheel and lack of flywheel effect. I had to keep the idle up as well so it could tick over and it smoked worse at red lights. The vape flywheel makes the bike feel so much better and smoother to me, I really love it. Also the wattage the Vape puts out keeps everthing bright and flicker free.

Now my big plan is getting the heads doweled to cylinders and the head's squish corrected to 1mm (I think is the safe norm) and chambers milled to keep a sane compression ratio. Once that's done I will set out to dial in an ignition curve. Im going to keep everything else stock.. aside from sprockets.. I really wished I had taller gearing to settle the revs a little especially when it had ign curve cause it felt like it had more than enough torque to do it without struggling. Dropping them by 750rpm in 6th would be nice.

The plan is to go through the motor this winter and make sure all is well and fix a small oil leak that was there since I rebuilt everything 3 years ago. I think its coming from the shifter rod or counter sprocket shaft. Im still on fence about completing my home made dyno to tune in ign curve... I may just find a dyno shop in town and pay to use it. Depends on what energy I have. Tbh when I had the bike attached to it, running on one cylinder, during testing it scared the crap out of me. Or, I may just plug in a "safe" ign curve like the one the HPI has and call it a day.

So, I'll start with quesiton #1... Who has had squish and chambers volumes done and was it worth it? Noticeable benefits? And if so.. any suggestions where I can send cyls and heads to get them doweled and squish corrected?

Thanks again everyone.
John 

$0.08/kWh?! Wow they're practically giving it away in Canada. Here it's over $0.40/kWh

holy crap! I dont think mine goes that high even during peak rates. For me it's .08 or .09 cents from 7pm to 7am.

thats the reason i never touch the brake pedal... you modulate regen with the throttle peddle. It's one peddle driving and you learn when to lay off and can regen it brake to a stop.

It has a hitch and can tow 3500lbs.

I think the car has equivalent of 450hp and thats as soon as you press the peddle. instant torque and it pulls so hard I have to put it in "chill" mode so it behaves more calmly.

I really had no choice but to sell my beloved F150 and get this electric car. I was burning $800 per month in fuel and that alone more than covers the loan payment on this car. charge it at night for .08 cents a kw and it costs me around $10 per 500km (310  miles) range. No il changes and really no maintenance, ive touched the brake peddle twice in a week so im assuming brakes are gonna last forever.

Hey all,

just letting you guys know I havent given up on the dyno and efi project... life has been getting in the way lately. Should be able to get back to it in a couple weeks.

Also, picked up my new ride last week.

I found a stray lab and decided Id keep her if no one came looking for her. I took her to the vets for a check over to make sure she was healthy... 3 days later I pick her up and see a bandage on her belly. I pointed at it and said "what's that for?" and the girl told me she was pregnant so the aborted the puppies. I was so angry that they never thought to call me and ask that I stood there for 30 seconds boiling over trying to calm myself. Has I been called and asked about it I would have agreed... no need for more dogs when so many dont have good homes. I feel they should have called me and asked what I wanted done because they knew Id be coming back for her.

Must be Honda clutch plates, 2 strokes don't have high lift cam lobes like the ones pictured.

LOL!

Ok.. herres setup #3. I should have done this in the first place but was too busy getting fancy. Should have the frame done this week or weekend.

edit..   worked a little on the frame... ignore the welds please lol... having a little trouble getting used to fluxcore.

there is the cogged pulley on the needle valve that will be controlled by the geared motor... the 3rd pic is the setup that will control everything. the black one is a stepper motor that will control the throttle percentage when i am steady state and acel enrichment turning.

ok thanks for feedback.... got everything i need and will get to work this week. pics to come.

This is my idea. 3 cushion bearing assys, 5 inch shaft to hold sprocket and extend out one bearing into a coupler that the pump shaft will fit into the other side. 

Or... should I connect one side of the spider joint coupler I have to the 5inch shaft and put the other half right on the pump shaft?

Let me know what you guys think.

Thank for feedback guys.... this is certainly a learning process for me.

After the initial frame I built got pulled inwards and bent I was thinking that I could just couple the pump right to the counter shaft. If I didnt have to make it so the pump was ale to rotate a little it'd be far easier but i do so I can measure torgue with the load cell. The pump isnt going to actually rotate obviously... but it cant be hard mounted and solid.

After I welded up yesterdays idea I knew right away it was a very bad idea. Last night I decided to go back to chain and build a beefy frame to hold everything solidly in play while allowing the pump to be able to press down a moment arm. This was actually my orig idea but took another route after thinking too hard lol.

So im going to do what SC is saying... I will have a shaft with a sprocket on it that will be held on each end with a cushion bearing to keep sheer forces at bay. One side will have the shaft extended out a couple inches and I plan to use a coupler there to couple to the pump shaft. The rear of the pump will be supported by a centered shaft I have welded up to a bracket and bolted on the back that will sit in another cushion bearing. The moment arm will be bolt to the front of the pump and will press on a load cell. Everything is going to be bolted onto a beefy frame I will weld up.

Ive seen a number of these hydraulic pump dyno setups on the net for small engines and they all work perfectly with the needle valve. They just turn it in by hand until the engine bogs down from redline and the torque is graphed as a curve that way.

I will use an Arduino that will have the rpm feed into it from the ignition... i have written code that will control a geared motor attached to the needle valve that will turn the valve until it reaches the requested rpm. Ive got a 3 : 1 pulley set and a toothed belt. So for every turn of the geared motor the needle valve will turn by 1/3. Ive already written most of the code that will control the motor and tested it a little. It has a ton of torque and I can code it to turn full speed which is 60 rpm or I can increment it small enough that it is almost imperceptible. I'm fairly certain that will give me the control the Arduino will need to control the engine rpm.

Im heading to get some parts... keep you guys posted.

Heres the final setup minus the frame. Im uncertain this wont vibrate like hell.. too many places in it for movement. I gave the engine side of it a dry run on the bike and it seemed to have some issues with wobble.. and at 2700rpm it prolly be dangerous. I think i should have a short as possible solid setup welded to a sproket minus the joint. Testing will show if this will be safe or not.