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Hi, it looks like the gear has been put on the wrong way which is why no movement when the engine running and the 'seized' priming wheel. The broken teeth look like it's been momentarily fitted to the wrong shaft at sometime in the past, but not this time.

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RS200, twin cylinder but only the one carb.

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I had one of the last 2 stroke models ever made, I loved it. The hp doesn't sound much but there is plenty of torque all the way through, largely due to the long stroke. It was both economical and very reliable.

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I've never seen that arrangement before. What bike is this? If the crank spins in the normal orientation, then I take it that bolt on the end is l/h thread?

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[emoji41][emoji41]

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all scientific and shit.

Sorry I don't follow? Please explain.

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From what I've seen, the pump looks to be working normally. [emoji106][emoji106]

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[emoji41]

All I was looking for was to see how far the plunger went in, on maximum stroke. The shims should pretty much touch the end of the top casting on the 'in' stroke. Much of a gap there means the 4x9x3 seal is off its seat.

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Looks good, but I didn't want you to turn the pulley, just hold it right down, (same thing).

I wanted to check something else and turning the pulley blocked my view!

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That doesn't look too bad to me. Don't forget the bore size of that clear pipe compared to the 0.7mm (or so) oil exit hole drilled in the carb. The flow through the latter is much more under control.

Can you repeat the video, this time hold the pulley right down towards the main body of the pump so it's on maximum stroke.
And also include the pump stroking in the shot, as the first video.

Also, each line will only shift some 0.55cc for 200 turns of that wheel on the back of the pump (when its at minimum stroke). Check for this. At maximum stroke the spec. is 5.5cc. Both those values are in the middle of the spec. range.

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Anyone can put a pump together. If it's done properly, that's PROPERLY, then it will be most reliable, and work totally as Yamaha intended. It may well need some extra parts swapping out, as well as the standard stuff.

I guarantee all my pumps for twenty years. If you want me to do it just let me know. I'll put you in the book and you can send it later on. Expected delivery December or January (I've caught up a lot).

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Ok, so what is the gap set to now?

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.25mm

Good job you increased it by 0.1mm as that's on top end of standard now.

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Some history as well please. Has the pump recently been rebuilt/taken apart, or not?

When you say the right hand side I'm presuming you mean the right outlet and not the top outlet. It matters not which outlet supplies which cylinder, but it does for diagnostic purposes. So its best to keep the plumbing as in the parts book, ie top outlet to left cylinder.

If the pump is drawing just a tiny bit of air in via any of the seals, it will show up first on the side (right) outlet, and obviously not pump any oil to that side. It also doesn't necessarily mean that you will see a leak anywhere.

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Ok, so what is the gap set to now?

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Should be green, not red.

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