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I could pick this up and store it inside for a couple of months (in DeLand Fl) if anyone, not local, wants it and makes a deal with the owner.  NOT MINE

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/836454981418456/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/836454981418456/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Paid off and picked this up on Saturday.  2022 Scott Spark.  First outing on Sunday.  Great fun.  Problem is the engine is 60 years old and seriously down on power!

Any dual sport riders in the South East interested in doing the Smokey Mountain 500 loop the first full week of June this year?  3-4 days off road and camping.

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/smokey-mountain-500.926507/

   So the carb isn't for a two-stroke.  It isn't even for a motorcycle (although it does have a motorcycle/scooter engine).  But I thought I would share my actual experience with the, I think, most expensive motorcycle carb out there.  I know the SmartCarb has been of interest to a few members, but I don't believe anyone has pulled the trigger on one, or a pair. 
   A friend of many years has a fleet of micro-cars, and I have Finally earned enough credibility with her to become her go-to source for maintenance and problem solving. Usually the cars were getting put in a container and shipped back to Europe just to get the spark plugs changed!     Just kidding, but not really kidding......
   The 'car' is a Hienkel Kabine.  200cc 4-stroke motorcycle engine.  Carbs are a huge issue for these vehicles.  Originals are unobtainium, and the 'solutions' available are all over the place.  Hers had an Indian made knock-off of a 50 year old Lambretta scooter carb.  Two-stroke carb on a four-stroke engine    It was on there when she bought the 'car' and it never ran right.  So after cleaning the carb and messing with internals of unknown quality and specification I say......"I think we should try a Smart Carb" (hell, it ain't my money  )  I mentioned to her that I had already been in contact with their technical department and they felt they could help.  So the words "here is my credit card" were spoken and I was on the phone to SmartCarb 

   So........the carb is a VERY nice piece of hardware.  Fit and finish are exceptional.  Looks and feels totally custom, without that 'made in some guy's garage' feel. There are no bowl vents or overflows.  The fitting and hose at the bottom of the float bowl are for draining the bowl.  SmartCarb mentions that 'internally venting' the carb is the reason that setting the carb up to run at sea level and riding to much higher elevations require no re-tuning, as well as tuning not being affected by temperature or humidity.   As mentioned, I spoke with SmartCarb and gave them the information regarding the application.  The technical dept then did some research and got back with me about a week later.  They felt they had a solution and the carb was ordered. It arrived after a few weeks and the first thing I noticed was that the vehicle application and all the tuning set-up for my (her) particular carb was hand written on the back of the instruction manual.  So, it seems, that it was individually tuned for the application.    I had also asked for a 90 degree noodle on top, rather than a straight cable guide, and that was done.  And I mentioned that I would need to swap out the knob choke for a cable actuated version and SmartCarb told me that Mikuni choke parts interchange.    
   After making a new throttle cable and installing the Mikuni cable choke assemble it was time to fire it up.  The engine fired right up and idled nicely.  After warming up the engine kind of stumbled off idle but then picked up nicely.  So, I decided to richen it up a bit.  Here is where the SmartCarb is so FREAKING slick.  Since there are no jets or screws, all adjustments are done with the needle, ala Lectron.  But rather than having to pull the top off the carb and use a special tool to adjust the needle like a Lectron, on the SmartCarb you simply open the throttle all the way; engine OFF of course, push the adjusting knob down to engage the needle, and turn the knob.  I turned the knob Clockwise to raise the needle.  There are 10 'clicks' per each revolution and the detents are easy to feel.  I went 3 clicks.  The throttle response was noticeably better, and I was impressed that it worked.
   What I find interesting is that a Lectron needle must always have the flat part of the needle facing the 'engine side' of the carb.  The SmartCarb needle does not seem to have that requirement.  I merely rotated the needle 3 positions, out of 10 for one complete revolution, so there is no way the flat side of the needle is still in the same orientation as far as air flow.
   So, as far as the carb, I am very happy and impressed with the technology, in that it seems to work.  It would definately be a big expense for a twin cylinder 2-stroke street bike, but, based on my hands-on experience I would definitely give one a try on a two-stroke single, on or off road, if I were looking to upgrade my carb.

Pictures:    https://ibb.co/album/ngvjfn

Just had my Works shocks rebuilt by Vintage Works MX in Texas. All new seals and bushings and oil and nitrogen. Also re-valved the rebound damping to slow it down a bit.  Beautiful work and what a difference in the ride 👍🏻

   I'm not sure if that's a good title or not. Anyway, this was the last MG custom triple clamp from Moto Carrera. Click the link for images. Doug sold it to me several years ago. All of the "custom" triple clamps available now are flat, and, in my opinion, are ugly and under engineered.
   So what I am suggesting/offering, is if anyone has the equipment and ability to copy this and make more, I will loan this one to any qualified individual.  I am not a machinist, so I do not know what would be involved.  I do know there are machines which can make 3-D scans of an item and replicate them. But I don't know if anyone on this forum has that type of equipment available to them or not.
   If anyone is interested, just send me a PM. I would expect my triple clamp
back within a reasonable amount of time, and would require fully refundable deposit before shipping it out. 

https://ibb.co/album/FnQcv0

    Not mine, but helping sell for original owner.  I have actually taught a few people; kids and adults, how to ride on this bike.  Recently the original owner (personal friend) decided to sell it.  I gave it a good checking over.   I installed a new OEM air filter, fresh Motul trans oil, new OEM sight glass for the oil tank, repacked the muffler.  This model has a well earned reputation for being bulletproof and durable. 
   $700 is the price, and worth every penny.  No need to take less.  I already turned down $650. If anyone here is interested, as long as it is paid for, I can store it inside for up to 6 months for free.  It is located in DeLand Florida, 32724.

https://daytona.craigslist.org/mat/d/deland-1992-suzuki-ds80/7288625906.html

   Let me first say I am not doing anything different than many others have posted in Youtube videos.  But I will answer questions with first hand experience, if anyone has any.

   My motivation for doing this was prompted by my RD250 AHRMA race bike.  After switching to the vintage Continental radial race tires (I had used Dunlop and Avon race tires), the last of the handling gremlins were gone from the RD.  The chatter under braking and mid corner, the front end push on corner exit.  These experiences are reinforced by other racers I know.
   So, I wanted to put the Continental Vintage Attack (not racing compound) radials on the BMW.  But...I did not want to use tubes.  Radials are not designed to run with tubes, as the tubes negate some of the benefits of the radial construction by resisting the flex in the radial sidewall.  Tubes also make the tire run hotter.
   I decided to build some new wheels using Buchanan's in-house manufactured Sun rims.  The PO of the BMW had already replaced the stock spokes with stainless Buchanan spokes.  The Sun rims are machined smooth on the inside after manufacturing and all Sun rims 2.15 and wider have a 'safety bead' (nice, but not a necessity).  The Sun rims are also non-dimpled and are drilled to order. 
  Steps:
*Ordered the Continental radials 100/80-19 Front 110/90-18 Rear
*Ordered the Sun rims from Buchanans pre-drilled for my application (1.85-19 front & 2.15-18 rear).
*Dismounted the tires on the bike, removed the spokes and rims, removed the bearings, vapor blasted the hubs, cleaned spokes and nipples,       
  re-assembled bearings with new grease and seals.
*Laced new rims to cleaned hubs and spokes.  Trued wheels.  Torqued spokes.  Beat on spokes with a dead-blow hammer periodically (to make sure
  everything was seated and stress relieved)
*Began sealing nipples (after a good cleaning with 50/50 mix alcohol & water) with 3M 5200 sealant.  They actually glue boats hulls (top and bottom) together with the stuff.  It sticks like nobody's business, but remains flexible.  I sealed about 10 spokes at a time and then let the sealer firm up a bit before moving to the next 10.
*Let the sealed wheel sit overnight to let the sealer cure.
*Cleaned the rim and sealer again with 50/50 alcohol and water mix.
*Began to Carefully and SLOWLY apply the 3M 4411n sealing tape.  I started applying the tape 4 spokes before the valve stem hole.  I held the tape in a
  'U' shape so it would make contact with the center of the rim and not make contact to the Sides of the center channel first, making it almost impossible to get a good adhesion to the very center of the rim. You must not stretch the tape and must make sure you are getting good contact with the rim and sealer 'blobs' WITHOUT STRETCHING the tape.  I jammed a piece of styrofoam between the rim and truing stand so the wheel would not rotate on it's own   
  making me get ahead of myself.  The green tape in the one picture is for the excess tape to stick to for easier removal.  The tape is Very sticky and almost ooey-gooey to the touch.  A small tire patch roller does a nice job of getting the tape stuck down, but not necessary (I don't have one).  You must take your time so as not to get any air bubbles trapped under the tape.  It is an extremely tedious process!!!!!
*Once the sealing tape is in place and 'bubble free' I overlapped the ends about 1/4".  Then I used a single edge razor blade to trim the excess width of the sealing tape (which hopefully was mostly on the green tape) for removal.  Then I used a #11 Xacto blade to cut open the valve stem hole.
*For the valve stem, I used one from NAPA auto parts.  It is metal and has an 8mm diameter.  That way I did not have to enlarge the valve stem hole, and if necessary, I can remove the stem and the hole will still fit a standard tube valve stem.
*Let the wheels sit overnight

*After that it was mount the tires and air them up.  Listen for any obvious leaks and let them sit overnight and check pressures again.  All Good !!!!

   It has now been 3 weeks and several rides. Tires hold pressure and the ride is what I expected.  Lively, but predictable handling along with a much more 'planted' feeling in the corners.   I am really happy with the decision to invest the time and money.  I doubt I will ever build another spoked rim vintage street or race motorcycle without using the Sun rims/Continental radial combination and going tubeless.

  No safety bead on the front is not an issue.  Most tube-type rims do not have a safety bead anyway.  A safety bead has nothing to do with holding an inflated tire on the rim.  It is supposed to keep a flat tire from 'walking' to the center of the rim. 
  So....If you run over a nail with a tube installed, you WILL have a flat tire in a few hundred feet.  If I run over a nail there is a possibility my tubeless front tire may go flat in a few hundred feet.  So in both scenarios I am in the same boat and the tire Might unseat from the bead and walk away from it.  But in reality, I probably will develop a slight leak which I can plug, long before the tire goes completely flat.

I have attached some pictures of the process.  They are not necessarily in order, but most of the steps are illustrated, as well as the NAPA valve stem.

https://ibb.co/album/N28cNT

https://i.ibb.co/16qhmpV/23-FD05-EF-1-DAB-4-A9-A-85-C1-5110-D3-CB4-CAA.jpg

Put Mikuni Flatslides on the BMW today.  Got rid of the original gas-pissing Bings.  Other fun stuff going on as well to the Teutonic Titwillow

https://i.ibb.co/pKctrML/IMG-1105.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/ZTPk9BB/9-D147-BFE-6-DB7-446-F-99-DE-E5-EE7-BFCF04-B.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Q8hKSbK/E2-B14-B80-D1-E8-430-D-A565-DB6-C9-F551-BD7.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/16qhmpV/23-FD05-EF-1-DAB-4-A9-A-85-C1-5110-D3-CB4-CAA.jpg

  Rumors say Honda and Repsol will split at the end of 2020.  Marquez contract up at the end of 2020.  Common knowledge that Marquez is more linked to Repsol (a sponsor of his since he was a kid) than he is to Honda itself.  Hard to think that Repsol would abandon MotoGP.  And if you, as a fan, did not Know that Ducati is sponsored by Marlboro tobacco, you would Not know since there is not any Marlboro (or any tobacco) signage allowed in MotoGP. 
   So.....maybe Ducati drops Marlboro and picks up Repsol?  Maybe Marquez follows Repsol rather than Honda? Maybe GiGi Dall'Igna gets his wish to get Marquez on his Ducati in 2021?