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Figured I'd remove the symbols to get the tank ready to go to a painter. A quick pry and...

whoops.

Oh well, I'm in it now, so I covered it with copious amounts of paint stripper. We'll see what the body guy says about possibly fixing the missing metal that was filled in with shmoo.

I had a 2009 Silverado that shit the transmission out of it about 140k, then around 185k one of those Displacement on Demand lifters decided to fuck off in BLOHIO of all places... Finally, I had a 2019 for about a year which got sold to buy our house, but not before the water pump left it at 42k.

Basically, I got sick of dealing with the new shit that costs an arm, leg, and left nut to fix or buy. So, I hopped on Marketplace and this truck popped up for $10k.

It's a 1994 Silverado with the flat tappet TBI 350 with 107k on the ODO, 4x4 on the floor, and everything in great working condition (multiple fluid leaks that are slowly being addressed, potential trans rebuild too, but I don't care). How'd I do?

One of the last rides I took my bike on this late summer I whipped down the freeway for about 15 miles, then got off and was cruising about 50-60 mph. I noticed the bike was making a loud howling noise that changed with the speed of the bike. However, at stop lights the engine sounded fine, no noises. So, has to be gearbox. Bike goes down the road fine. No weird chattering or anything feeling amiss.

I mean the howling was loud over the wind noise, etc. It didn't appear to be there in 1st-3rd. Only 4th and 5th. Anyone have an experience with Suzuki gearboxes sounding so loud (M in SC, Teazer)?   

https://www.theautopian.com/vermont-will-no-longer-register-cars-in-any-state-because-people-couldnt-stop-doing-crimes/

Vermont is pulling the plug.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1619375995201939

Just watch the video... 

So, I got the new set of GT750 cases to use and it came with a small bolt that needed extracting for the oil pump line cover. No big deal... I thought. Well, the extractor snapped off flush in the bolt and of course its tool steel. So... fine. I'll grind it flat and glue a bolt head to the cover and call it good cause fuck that noise.

Let's get the rest of the parts off so I can vapor blast this case for use... Ok... the deflector plate. That'll hold a lot of glass bead out of site. Better get it off. A few smacks with the vessel impacta and two bolts come out. The last bolt at the back... BREAKS OFF INSIDE THE CASE.

FINE! I'll just drill this one out cause my EZ out is broken anyway. So... I get a small drill bit started straight and as soon as I press down... slips to the side and fucks the hole. I get like an hour a day to dick around now... and this is what happens.

So, question... what might be the problem running the bike without the deflector plate in the trans?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/494819649443161/?mibextid=dXMIcH

I guess haha.

Looks cool and not a terrible price if you ask me.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3408618246049891/

The old crank twisters! The Vmax 4's were fat, heavy (iirc 900lbs), beasts that are still faster than most sleds today. See 9:54 for a good show.

This little motor has an extremely high gear ratio,  does 0-60 in a second flat. No joke. Has the loudest squeal of a supercharger I've ever seen too. 

Caleb was born Thursday @ 7:52PM EST, weighing 6 lb.'s, 9 oz's.

He was medically transported to Children's Hospital of Detroit for two partially collapsed lungs. So, we've been with him the past 3 days. Thankfully he has since recovered and all of us are now home attempting to sleep and keep up with him and the dog. Crazy weekend for sure.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175509066738

Seems in OK shape, but not for $3500.

Way off topic I know.

On November 10th, 1975, the ore carrier SS Edmund Fitzgerald sank  in Lake Superior with all hands around 7:10PM, some 15 nautical miles from the safety of Whitefish bay. A lot of folks know this, but, here's something a lot don't. One of the sailors on the Fitzgerald, Bruce Hudson (22, Deckhand), had just that summer purchased a motorcycle much to his mother's concern. To which he replied: "Don't worry about me riding a motorcycle mom. When I go out, the whole world's gonna know."

Well, maybe the whole world doesn't know. But, I do.

Here's to the 29.

I had the bike out today. All was normal until it decided to start idling really low on the way home to where It's basically a T500 now. It idled kinda low, but seemed fine at speed. So, I was giving it some extra throttle when a car in front decided to slow down and turn quickly, so I rolled off and it died. A few cranks later and it was running again. The left cylinder isn't running at idle. It has compression. Around 105psi. It has spark. It's getting fuel. The plug will come out wet.

If I throttle it up the cylinder comes alive again. As soon as I let off, it's bupkiss. Also, strangely enough if I hold the cap a little bit away from the plug I can get that cylinder to run sporadically, and it's back to nothing with the cap seated. Rechecked timing and it hasn't moved.

Only thing I recently did was replaced the oil pump and set the float heights in the carbs. Which actually raised the fuel in the bowls a bit. The idle circuit was clear as well.


It has the original coils on it. 

Thinking about a Delkevic exhaust for the GT... It needs something that's for sure. The tiger stripe of oil out the right side exhaust looks sweet haha.

So, I spooned the new tires on. Check.
Rebuilt the front forks with new fork tubes. Check.
New chain and sprockets. Check.
New rear grab handle and center stand. Check Check.

Brakes feel spongy and ones dragging. Ok, let's try flushing it. First bleeder on right side loosened, pulls fluid through vacuum bleeder just fine. Check.

Left caliper. Loosen bleeder, attach hose and vacuum bleed away... nothing. Weird. Pull bleeder all the way out. Still nothing. Squeeze brake lever. Still nothing out of bleeder. Both calipers working... Right side moves slower. Also doesn't release well. So, master relief hole? Or something inside the caliper?

Any ideas?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4457076861084128/

So, I have a HF 26" box that isn't super light.

How do you guys move these boxes?  I figured I'd move it empty, taking the drawers out, and packing the tools somewhere else. But, now that my truck is gone. I guess I can rent a pickup and a trailer. I hate not having a car. Haha. I've never not had a truck and I don't like it. 

More fun. The bike seems to run fine in lower speeds, but as soon as you open it up to accelerate I feel and hear a snap, crackle, and pop on the lest side as it does. Makes the bike cruise down the road like Evinrude on The Rescuers. All tuckered out.

Hey fellas,

Here's a quick video I made showing the starter clutch play I've found without completely disassembling the clutch. I don't know what's normal or not for these, so I figured I'd ask here. The suzi2t forums I pisted about getting the cases welded up and its been crickets. They don't seem to be as active on that site. 

Here's it running.
https://youtu.be/JUchEtf3bvU

and here's it not running and taken apart.
https://youtu.be/UjXAATrgpbY

Just a PSA.

Got a half dozen NGK B8HS plugs from Autozone. Couldn't beat the price ($2.00 per). Dropped the main jet down to a 200 (what it was at when I killed it on the freeway) and ran it to the gas station. The bike ran like absolute crap. Felt like the spark was cutting in and out. Not only that, but I left the gas cap key at home. DOH! Instantly thought it was fuel-related... but, it would run seemingly ok for a few seconds then sputter and repeat.

Anywho, took it home spitting and sputtering. Pulled the left side plug and it looked...ok. But, the plug said THAILAND on the side instead of NGK. Looked on the box... Sure enough it says Designed in Japan, Assembled in Thailand. Well, shoot. Checked the rest and they are all made in Japan as normal. Threw a made in Japan NGK in it and the bike runs normally again. Never seen an outsourced NGK before. Maybe they got desperate?