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I'm replacing my oil lines and I bought the oem hose that runs from the oil tank to the pump. There is a ring around the hose on one end (several inches from the end) and I can't tell if it should be installed on the oil tank or pump side.

I can't find any diagrams for this and I'm guessing it goes toward to tank side, but not sure.

Takasago Japan (TK 530) TK Products

I cleaned my chain and noticed that my clip was missing. Does anyone know where I can find a masterlink for a 530 Takasago  Standard (non o ring) Chain? I really just need the clip.

Each link says "TK 530," and I found the manufacturer to be Takasago. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing I need to stay with the same brand. (Or will any 530 clip work?)

I found some on eBay but they had an H added after TK530 (for heavy duty I guess).

Does anyone know the torque specs for the rear axle nut and rear sprocket bolts? The rear axle nut is 20mm and rear sprocket bolts are 17mm. The only info I have is this chart I downloaded from the RD 350 manual. Just wanted to be sure before tightening them.

Thanks!

As long as the bike is in neutral, I'm guessing this is ok to start with the side cover off and clutch disconnected. I%u2019m thinking it would be good to see if the seals are leaking before putting it back together.

Meh... Nevermind. I just put it back together. Going to ride it around the block and see if it leaks. Easy enough.

Does anyone have a good option for a rear stand for the RD 350? I don't have a center stand anymore and need to change the sprockets and chain. Mine gradually slides up the  swing arm over time and gets in the way. 

Hello again,

Do I need to put a dab of all purpose grease on the splines and front face of the collar before attaching the sprocket and chain? Seems like a good idea but not sure

Outside of the locking washer, Does anyone use lock tight on the nut as well? 

It looks like either the o ring disintegrated or liquid gasket was used on the old assembly. What's the best/safest way to clean it off or is it ok to go ahead and install the new one?

It looks like the gray rtv stuff. I'm guessing brake cleaner and plastic scraper will work, but am not sure what else is behind/around it that brake cleaner might mess up.

Does anyone know the size of the nut for the countershaft sprocket? I'm going to buy a socket for it. The is for a 73 RD 350.

Also, anyone have a good option for a seal puller? I've looked at a few types/methods and any insight would be great.

I'm guessing I should also lube all the new seals with multi purpose grease?

Thanks!

I found a few rd350 speedometers for sale, but there appears to be 2 different types that fit the same 73-75 rd. The cable connections and etc. appear to be in the same format, but the bottoms their cases are shaped differently.

Both my speedo and tach protrude outward at the base and around the cable connection. Others I've seen that are listed for the same bike are entirely flat across the bottom.

Are both types interchangeable. It seems like they are, but figured I would check.

I just changed out my trans oil for the first time and noticed it was extremely overfilled. I added just under 1500ml of fluid and leaned it from side to side and etc. it's gone down a little but is still well over the mark.

I let it drain for about 2 hours. The bike was level and every now and then I leaned it from side to side and etc to make sure all of the oil  drained out.

Should I start the bike to ensure the fluid fills the case properly or just wait a while for the fluid to settle?

My conventional yuasa (12n5.5a-3b) battery life crapped out recently. Does anyone have a good recommendation for a maintenance free alternative?

Hello,

What is a good plug gap recommendation if using an electronic ignition (Vintage Smoke)? The manual says .020-.024, but I figured I'd double check.

I just installed and synced new 28mm mikuni carbs. I turned both idle screws until they rested on the slides, then backed them off a bit. When I started the bike, it revved much higher than normal, so I backed off the idle screw a half turn. It still revved too high, so I turned the idle screws all the way out. It got a little better, but still seems to idle too high.

Both air screws are turned 1.25 turns out, and I'm "thinking" my slides may not be dropping down far enough. I read that the end of a small drill bit should be able to fit between the bottom of the slide and the slide passage. I've attached a picture of the slide dropped all the way down/throttle closed. Any help would be great.

Does anyone know the exact size of the 2 small screws that fasten to diamond shaped cover for the fuel lever/switch?

Mine are worn and I would like to replace them with alan head screws.

Is it advisable to cover the ignition coil connections with electrical tape since they are directly under the gas tank? Or am I over thinking...

Hello,

I just want to make sure I do this right. I just installed new carbs and am going to prime my oil lines. I'm not sure if I absolutely need to do this since the bike was running with the old carbs, but it was recommended.

Do I just hold the throttle wide open and turn the plastic white gear at the bottom in a clockwise/downward motion?

Also, do I need to adjust the cable to align the longer notch to the pin of the front of the pump?

Does anyone know the best way to route an aftermarket throttle cable for brand new mikuni vm28's? I have a 1973 RD 350.

I bought the VM28 carbs and new throttle cable kit from economy cycle. I should have asked John about that before they closed....ugh.

Maxima MTL 75, 80 or 85wt?

I'm about to switch to maxima mtl and am wondering what wt I should use (75, 80 or 85 wt)? I'm not racing and this is for street use. I'm guessing 80, but figured I might as well ask.

"Before installing the 169 series needle jet, the spray bar (shield) must be cut down or the mid range circuit will operate too late and screw up everything. With a pair of venier calipers set to 2mm, use the id measuring portion and mark off a line that is 2mm from the base of the needle that would be flush with the carb bore. Hold the needle jet in a vise (gently) and position the scribe mark in such a way as to use the sides of the jaws as a guide for the blade. Using just a fine (32 teeth per inch) hacksaw blade, cut just barely away from the line, leaving enough to trim the length with a fine file."

Years ago when I installed the Dave F mod I did not trim down the needle jet. I just found this information which wasn't part of the original instructions that I used. I haven't been running anything other than Dave F modded carbs, and have had tuning problems since I've owned the bike. I've gone through everything: timing, compression, new coils, leak down test, new batteries, etc..

I was thinking about buying brand new carbs, but figured I'd ask about this first.

Hello,

Does anyone know of good options for and places to buy aftermarket tach/speedo's for the RD350? My stock unit recently crapped out and I don't have the $ to refurb it just yet. I looked around on mike's XS and they seemed to have quite a few compatible units. I don't really know of any other reliable place to find them.

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-tacho-2-25-white-face-0-12000-rpm.html