Messages

Here you go.

It does have a title.  Plan is to just get it running and ride it.  I'm not concerned about restoring it.  I probably have to go through everything though, just for piece of mind as it sat under that tarp for a long time.  I guessing since at least 1995.  Carbs need to be gone through, I was told that years ago when I first found out my friend had it.

When my friend obtained it it had PM calipers and discs, he swapped them for FJ600 discs and calipers.  I should have guessed that other FJ/FZ parts might fit.  I have the PM calipers and discs also.  He didn't like them as he said you had to remove the discs to get the front wheel off.

Finally have my unicorn at home, a 1984 Yamaha RZ500.  I made the deal for it years ago with my friend, sight unseen as it was buried in his garage (next to a 1941 Indian 4, made an offer on that when we pulled the RZ out).  I was finally able to talk him into letting me pull it out.  The RZ is missing some parts which may or may not be elsewhere in the garage, or at the old shop.  My question is are there parts that will fit from other Yamaha's as the parts book shows RZ500 (47X) specific parts.

The parts in question are:
47X-84721-11   LENS, Taillight
47X-847232-00   GASKET, Tail Lens
47X-23340-01-39   UNDER BRACKET COMP (lower triple)
47X-24602-00   CAP ASSY (gas cap)
47X-24560-00   FILTER ASSY (fuel outlet from tank to petcock)
47X-24773-01-98   HANDLE, seat (rear grab rail)

Pics attached of the recovery and as uncovered.  Bodywork was in boxes minus fasteners, and in really bad shape.  For having less than 4600Km it led a hard life.  It was shipped in pieces from New Zealand and reassembled in another mentor's shop.  Was ridden hard on and off the track until it was parked at my friend's house.

Thanks guys!

Made it to the shop/man-cave Saturday and went through the box of oil pumps.  Found one that seemed to match up, but decided to bring the box home anyway.  Of course the one that seemed to match seems to be a perfect match.  Worm gear and drive gear match up.  I'm guessing the internal gear of the pump are the same also.  Can anyone confirm this?  I'd rather not take the pump apart as it seems brand new and as such a waste of time to do so.

Thanks Arrow.  Rebuild kit arrived yesterday.  Going to the shop tomorrow so I'll see if I can find one in better shape.  I figure it may be a good idea to rebuild whichever goes in the motorcycle as they would both be about 50 years old.

What about western culture's aversion to the number 13?... and all the crazy cultural things going on in the western world?...  If the early numbering scheme had been carried on it's likely the number 7 would also have been omitted.  4 - shi (alternate pronunciation, 'yon'), 7 - shichi (alternate pronunciation 'nana').  Shi sounds the same as the Japanese word for death but different characters are used.  The reason is the same as why it's frowned on to call a cigarette a 'fag'.

***EDIT***
I realized I had forgotten about the YDS7.  It's possible that by its release Yamaha had started to cater more to western markets.

Thanks Arrow.  I was planning on polishing the corrosion on the pump shaft up the best I could.  I'll take the pump to the shop to see if there's another one in the box.  I didn't have it with me the first time.  Hopefully there's one in better shape.

I'm guessing the nozzle is a press fit, so heat it up a little and work it out gently?  Maybe with a heat gun or blow dryer?

M, your post made things click in my head. The advice was to use it on the plugs for the transmission, and possibly other seals w/o a locating lip.

The last pics.

So, the pumps were only similar in that they were for singles.  One turned clockwise, the other counter-clockwise.  The worm gears didn't have the same amount of turns, as well as the driven internal gears having a different amount of teeth.  I'm sure I can find the proper pump at the shop in the box of pumps, but decided I'd just rebuild this one.  Ordered the kit off fleabay today. The hardest part was getting the pump out of the body.  Years of neglect had corrosion on the exposed part of the shaft so it wouldn't push through the body.  Took quite a while of cleaning off the corrosion before I could push it through.  Next up is a visit with the ultrasonic cleaner, then a visit to the blast cabinet to hopefully make it pretty again.

Pics of the disassembly below.  Missing the pics of removing the driven internal gear.  Arrow was correct about the spring loaded pins.  I removed the gear in a clear plastic bag to make sure nothing was lost.  A trick learned from the pics of the instructions the vendor I bought the rebuild kit from posted.

Oh, regarding Yamabond...Yamaha states to not use it on seals.  A friend and respected tuner told to that I should use it.  I'm kind of curious to how many recommend which.

A while back I was trying to figure out which way the seals were supposed to face on my RZ350.   RTFM...yup in the manual it stated the printed side faces out, the lettering faces out.  I'm guessing this is standard practice.

So the oil pump on my DT100A project leaks from one of the seals inside the cover, not the shaft seal.  I found another similar pump at the shop.  Now as I understand it, Yamaha made pump housings for the number of cylinders for which they supplied oil; 1, 2, 3...  So for my purposes, any pump for a single would work, as long as the gearing is correct.  So, as far as I can tell, there are only two gears that come into play, the worm gear and the internal gear driven by the worm gear.  I'm guessing the gear that is different is the worm gear as this the easiest to interchange.  Also, it is the only gear listed in the parts catalogue, and there are more than one listed.

Anyone out there that can confirm that I just need to make sure the worm gears are the same, or swap them if necessary?  I have to use the driven gear on the existing pump as the one I found doesn't have one.  That's one less gear to worry about.

I may be way off base...  I seem to recall certain marques making engines that would allow you to switch the shift mechanism from the left to the right, or vice-versa?  this was when standardization of controls was on the horizon.  Might this be the reason for the differences?  I think the YR1 was one of these and we have one at the shop.  The next time I'm there I'll see if I can get to it (it's pretty deep in with a bunch of other motorcycles in front of it) and take pictures of the cases to use for comparison.

On a similar (control differences) note, we have a '40's Indian 4 that will be going up for sale.  Anyone interested?  Black with tan seat.