Quote from: m in sc on January 13, 2024, 07:22:41 AMyup, thats where the stock fuse is supposed to be
sounds like a short somewhere, or a wire rubbing though. unplug other items that aren't required to make the bike run, something will present itself. also, start digging in the headlight bucket, look for a chafed wire.
TBH, i have a few really old meters, sometimes the analog ones are the best to find something easily, the auto ranging digital ones can be a bit over-sensitive.
Ok that's good to know about the fuse.
I just got the tank off and that's an ordeal. I tried to make fuel tank removal easier last May when I got a motion pro fuel line disconnect but the ethanol in the fuel I think swelled it up as well as hardening the fuel lines. that thing is really hard to seperate. I think I'm gonna have to make some kinda testing fuel vessel that I can just set up quick and temporary to the carbs cause I know that tank is going to be staying off the bike for a good long while till I get this sorted.
And after removing the gas tank I just removed,disconnected wires from the headlight as well. I'm looking so hard for a chafed wire, anything obvious.
One thing I keep getting fixated on is the red positive wire lead of the main harness coming from the battery. I know that wire got really warm and the red insulation just has the partially glazed, melted look to it but still very much intact. I remove several inches of tape where the harness snakes around the battery box to up to the point where there's a four inch white label tag taped into the harness. Wires still look ok but I just get to thinking how this is probably the original harness and I just wonder if there's a shelf life to these wires. I guess if they are not chafed and touching then they can be trusted?
I do know that there's all the extra wire from the old regulator rectifier that could be eliminated just to clean up the harness a bit. Of course this would have me taking the harness apart and retaping it. but for now I would like to think it can stay put.
Did find a Vape troubleshooting link somewhere on this forum that advised as you say to disconnect the nonessential items and thru a process of elimination slowly reconnect items till a short presents itself. So upon saying that I will assume to leave the grounds of the harness connected as well as leave the kill switch and ignition switch connected. Vape suggest the horn was a common culprit of shorts fwiw.