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Messages - teazer

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Turning Wrenches / Re: Modern front brake caliper.
« on: November 04, 2020, 03:46:27 PM »
There are some really nice Brembo billet calipers that are substantially thinner and lighter than regular cast calipers.  They cost a bit more too.

The pair I have came off an AF1 race bike and one is cracked, but the other I will use on a TZ one of these days if my brain doesn't explode over the election shenanigans first.

Just did - you've got mail.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Found - B8ES plugs
« on: November 03, 2020, 09:53:59 PM »
Well at least we know where the new NGK warehouse has moved to...

PID, Gas ain't what it used to be.  It's a whole different mix now and unleaded doesn't short out plugs with lead, but the plugs do take on a black coating that takes more heat to burn clean.

Try BR8EIX iridium plugs and zero resistance caps.

That TZ spring and lever is designed to work with a rear disk.  But the TD/TR3 lever is similar and the spring is the same IIRC.

The spring locates on the footpeg mounts which are tubular on a TD or TZ.  The red frame is a TD3 fitted with a modified RD/R5 rear wheel but the spring is not fitted. The black frame is a TZ350E

Hope that helps.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Modern front brake caliper.
« on: November 01, 2020, 10:44:36 PM »
XS650 disks and carriers fit fine on a TZ250/350 wheel and the forks are perfect for a stock RD caliper which works just fine on a TZ.

And if you can't find a good TZ250/350 C/D/E front end or and F or G front end, try a pair of XS650 sliders on RD forks. The sliders are longer but take stock RD type calipers and work with 298mm disks.

Always more than one way to skin a feline.

Or get a complete RZ350 or FZR400 front end and upgrade wheels and brakes.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Modern front brake caliper.
« on: November 01, 2020, 11:23:57 AM »
Economy caliper is super light - especially when fitted with alloy pistons.  On a race bike it would flex/expand the same way as the TZ alloy caliper did but on our drag race TZ/RD it works fine with a thin disk.

Turning Wrenches / Re: TZ/RD 750 Project help
« on: October 26, 2020, 05:24:01 PM »
Just a thought, but could you weld up the inside of the barrels at the mating flange and weld it flat and then do the same on the heads and cut a new O ring groove for a slightly shorter O ring - basically move the ring groove inwards away for the face that was machined for clearance.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Colder left cylinder
« on: October 26, 2020, 12:33:57 AM »
Had an RD350 on the dyno a while ago that was leaner one side than the other and the carbs were perfect, so we swapped out a pilot jet to one size larger on the lean side and everything was fine all the way through the rev range.

We have to remember that jets are sized with a number but they actually fall within a range of flows, so one might be at the fat end of the tolerance or may flow more fuel that it should. 

Are the jets new and are the pilot air screws absolutely identical? There may be slight differences.

General Chatter / Re: TZ125 help!
« on: October 24, 2020, 12:03:38 AM »
Even better.  aluminum frame dates it anywhere after 89 IIRC.

Would be funny if it turned out to be our old bike.

Turning Wrenches / Re: TZ/RD 750 Project help
« on: October 24, 2020, 12:01:24 AM »
Maybe off topic, but how will a 4 cyl RD type crank with RH end primary drive hold up at TZ750 power levels?

That's a good question.  TZ750 takes power from between the two cranks IIRC.  Eqach as a coupling gear that holds them in synch, but it's two short cranks, not one long one.

On 180HP triple sleds, power is taken off the end of the crank, but the PTO end is pretty chunky and typically has a double row bearing to reduce shaft whip.  The Mag end is also typically pretty beefy and again uses a double row bearing.

Those are viable options with say a bolt on end bearing holder. 

Turning Wrenches / Re: TZ/RD 750 Project help
« on: October 23, 2020, 03:59:54 PM »
They are not exactly cheap though....

Then neither are projects like this one....

And where's the challenge in that?  Built not Bought, as they say.  Some of us like a challenge.

Turning Wrenches / Re: TZ/RD 750 Project help
« on: October 23, 2020, 11:58:19 AM »
That set up will not hold water, so the choices are:

Start again and make the combined crankcases wider and source a new pair of barrels. OR

Turn the pair of barrels into one monoblock and do the same with the heads.  You will have to clamp the parts and pre-heat them to minimize distortion. It may not work, but I don't see a way to get individual heads to seal with no surface to seal against.

That issue is why Yamaha made the 750 barrels and heads narrower than 350 parts so they could make the motor a little less wide, but this one looks like it is too narrow.

It might be possible to machine either the barrels or heads so that the combustion chambers still seal with stock O rings and the water jacket is sealed with a copper gasket. 

Take that idea one step further.  Machine the heads down by slightly less than the thickness of the custom copper head gasket and then machine out the combustion chambers to take Banshee domes which will sit proud of the lower head surface. The copper had gasket would have to be custom cut with "bores" large enough to clear the outside edges of the domes.

I have a GT750 head that was modified like that.  The domes sit lower than the lower face of the head and protrude through the gasket to seal against the top flange of the bores and the copper gasket is just there to keep the water in place.

Even with that set up, you don't have a lot of surface left to seal against.

I tried something similar when I wanted to graft Polaris XCR800 barrels onto a GT750 crankcase but bore spacing is too tight and would have left paper thin (or non existent) transfer port outer walls, so that would have required a crank redesign and new crankcases, so at that point I decided it might be simpler to grab a complete XCR motor and mate it to the back half of a GSXR crankcase for the transmission.  That's how project insanity takes off. 

Turning Wrenches / Re: Rd250 frame rd400 engine
« on: October 18, 2020, 12:04:27 PM »
IIRC, the 400 motor sits a little further forward than earlier RDs and ss far as I know, the difference between a late model RD250 frame and early one is that the 400 has a removable front engine mount to allow the taller RD motor to be fitted with the heads on.

What I don't know is if the later 250 also changed to the 400 engine position or kept the earlier geometry. 

The 400 motor should fit without any issues and if you fit a longer swingarm, it should help to keep the front end down.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Li-Ion / Li-Fe Batteries
« on: October 18, 2020, 11:59:26 AM »
If you go with a Lithium battery of any design, you need a regulator that is suitable.  That probably means using a MOFSET type, but do your research and test the output of it after you fit it.  Excess voltage/current when charging is the main cause of fires with Lithium batteries.

Lithium batteries big advantages are weight, or lack thereof, and the fact that they can handle huge discharge current but on an RD that isn't necessary.

General Chatter / Re: TZ125 help!
« on: October 18, 2020, 12:04:04 AM »
I am guessing 1990 or within a few years of that.  TZ125H (1980 was steel framed and for some reason I thought they stopped production and restarted with the beam frame in or around 1990.  But I cannot swear to that.  Try over on NATS where racers tends to hang out.

Try RSCycles for parts or ask on NATS

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